UKC

Restricted Access

USER ATTENTION

Report of a lose bolt June 2023 - “One of the staples wobbles. As looking out at the sea it is the top left staple on the flat top of rock. This is directly above the iron ladder which gives access from Sharbutts Quarry to Sacred Angel Area”

from 14/06/2023

The four main sections, North, Central, South and Far South have a continuous under cliff path lining them all. But it is better to access each section from either end. After the 2014 landslide destroyed the southern approach, Far South and south are best accessed from the wall quarry a top South section. Sections of the Path can be quick tricky, especially in the wet and the paths to the beach blocks tend to move around over time. Take a moment to look where you are heading to before heading straight to your chosen climbing area.

The classic Pregnant Pause a contender for Portlands longest route, is a full 30m and take a least 16 Draws. A full 60m rope will make it be always tie a knot in the end just in case!   

 

Rockfax Description
Climb the wall just right of Slings Shot to below a bulge. Follow the line right to a narrow shelf of flowstone and finish up the short wall above it. The climbing shares a few holds midway with Slings Shot. © Rockfax

FA. Gary Gibson Oct/2005.

Ticklists

West Country Climbs , Portland , CC GUIDE (2008): Portland - 1-3 Star Classic & Hard Rock

Feedback

User Date Notes
mrkebabdriver 30 Apr, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Had to clipstick up the middle section. Top seemed hard too.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Had to clipstick up the middle section. Top seemed hard too.
just one more 5 Aug, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Large loose holds removed near the top, a bit tougher now and still a bit dusty
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Large loose holds removed near the top, a bit tougher now and still a bit dusty
AidanBoyce1 6 Sep, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Loose hold 2/3 up beware! Small triangular obvious jug ready to come off.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Loose hold 2/3 up beware! Small triangular obvious jug ready to come off.

Logged Ascents

910 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Blacknor North

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 66 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High 6b+
Mid 6b+
Low 6b+
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a+
Mid 6a+
Low 6a+
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 100
Votes cast 85
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
DNF
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Underage

Grade: 6a ***
(Coastguard South)

Loading Notifications...