Rockfax Description
An extremely popular classic that follows the beautiful central section of flowstone on very good holds. Climb up to a huge flake of flowstone, and make the crux moves to get established above, where easier climbing leads to the lower-off. © Rockfax
FA. J.Tookey 1975. FFA. Nigel Coe 24.9.88. The line was bolted by Pete Oxley 11.5.94 and claimed as The Scales of Balance..
Ticklists
ROCKFAX Portland: Top 50 , West Country Climbs , Feature Photo Routes from Dorset Rockfax 2012 , 3 Star Portland , ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List , Orange Spot Portland , ULMC Classics , The best 50 UK "Orange Spot" Sports Routes? , 4 - 5 Grade Climbs Portland Westcoast , Portland sub 6b , Portland , Portland, Dorset , Spanish crew 2018 , West Country Climbs: Sport Routes Grades 5 to 7a+ , Portland Trip , CC GUIDE (2008): Portland - 1-3 Star Classic & Hard Rock , UK Flowstone , Top 50 Most Logged Climbs in the South West (Sport) , Portland scheming
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
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| David Staples | 16 Jun, 2022 |
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βeta: Removed a huge block off of the crux on the Friday. Climbed it on the Saturday and can confirm the grade hasn't changed. The removal of the block (Which could easily of killed someone) didn't remove any key jugs or holds on the crux and fortunately didn't damage the route on it's way down. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Removed a huge block off of the crux on the Friday. Climbed it on the Saturday and can confirm the grade hasn't changed. The removal of the block (Which could easily of killed someone) didn't remove any key jugs or holds on the crux and fortunately didn't damage the route on it's way down. |
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| JasperBWilliams | 5 Sep, 2020 |
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βeta: Fantastic climb! | ||
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βeta: Fantastic climb! |
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| Julie Black | 14 Nov, 2006 |
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βeta: Not that polished, great juggy holds including some classic undercuts, and enough solid feet placements. Yes commiting move with the leg hook thing but not all that difficult, just a bit akward. | ||
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βeta: Not that polished, great juggy holds including some classic undercuts, and enough solid feet placements. Yes commiting move with the leg hook thing but not all that difficult, just a bit akward. |
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| nugski | 18 Apr, 2006 |
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βeta: great climb. lovely rock 1 of my favourite climbs as a 5. | βeta? | |
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βeta: great climb. lovely rock 1 of my favourite climbs as a 5. |
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| airbournegrapefruit | 23 Mar, 2006 |
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βeta: yeah done this one on sunday. great route but the move between second to last and last single bolt is a bit commiting. wierd leg hook thing i think i done. | ||
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βeta: yeah done this one on sunday. great route but the move between second to last and last single bolt is a bit commiting. wierd leg hook thing i think i done. |
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| Mark Glaister - Assistant Editor | 12 Feb, 2006 |
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βeta: Crocadilila is a reasonable climb but some blinkers are needed in the middle section where the wall is climbed on excellent flowstone jugs, NOTE take care near the top just below the flowstone cornice where a largish hollow flake sems a bit suspect. Warn those picnicing below. | ||
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Show beta
βeta: Crocadilila is a reasonable climb but some blinkers are needed in the middle section where the wall is climbed on excellent flowstone jugs, NOTE take care near the top just below the flowstone cornice where a largish hollow flake sems a bit suspect. Warn those picnicing below. |
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| dixiechick | 6 Jul, 2005 |
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βeta: Absolutely Gr8 LUV IT | βeta? | |
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βeta: Absolutely Gr8 LUV IT |
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| Wilbur | 28 Jun, 2005 |
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βeta: If you're under five foot is it 5+? | βeta? | |
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βeta: If you're under five foot is it 5+? |
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| Danos | 21 Jun, 2005 |
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βeta: Awesome route, great fun! | βeta? | |
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βeta: Awesome route, great fun! |
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| steve taylor | 20 May, 2005 |
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βeta: Andy Long has replaced the belay bolts. Good work! | βeta? | |
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βeta: Andy Long has replaced the belay bolts. Good work! |
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| TRNovice | 14 Nov, 2004 |
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βeta: First bolt is no longer there (14-Nov-2004). Just two holes and some powdered flowstone where it was. | βeta? | |
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βeta: First bolt is no longer there (14-Nov-2004). Just two holes and some powdered flowstone where it was. |
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| Alex More | 17 Oct, 2004 |
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βeta: Crazy rock formations and a great first lead, must do for aspiring jug lovers! | βeta? | |
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βeta: Crazy rock formations and a great first lead, must do for aspiring jug lovers! |
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| Wilbur | 1 Oct, 2004 |
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βeta: I don't think it's polished at all. feet seem solid all the way up and all the handholds are huge... | βeta? | |
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βeta: I don't think it's polished at all. feet seem solid all the way up and all the handholds are huge... |
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| nealh | 29 Sep, 2004 |
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βeta: getting rather polished? guess who's to blame! | βeta? | |
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βeta: getting rather polished? guess who's to blame! |
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| Wilbur | 5 Apr, 2004 |
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βeta: lovely climb | βeta? | |
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βeta: lovely climb |
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| JPM | 26 Jul, 2000 |
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βeta: It is getting rather polished!! | βeta? | |
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βeta: It is getting rather polished!! |
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