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Report of a lose bolt June 2023 - “One of the staples wobbles. As looking out at the sea it is the top left staple on the flat top of rock. This is directly above the iron ladder which gives access from Sharbutts Quarry to Sacred Angel Area”

from 14/06/2023

The four main sections, North, Central, South and Far South have a continuous under cliff path lining them all. But it is better to access each section from either end. After the 2014 landslide destroyed the southern approach, Far South and south are best accessed from the wall quarry a top South section. Sections of the Path can be quick tricky, especially in the wet and the paths to the beach blocks tend to move around over time. Take a moment to look where you are heading to before heading straight to your chosen climbing area.

The classic Pregnant Pause a contender for Portlands longest route, is a full 30m and take a least 16 Draws. A full 60m rope will make it be always tie a knot in the end just in case!   

 

22m.

Rockfax Description
An extremely popular classic that follows the beautiful central section of flowstone on very good holds. Climb up to a huge flake of flowstone, and make the crux moves to get established above, where easier climbing leads to the lower-off. © Rockfax

FA. J.Tookey 1975. FFA. Nigel Coe 24.9.88. The line was bolted by Pete Oxley 11.5.94 and claimed as The Scales of Balance..

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Portland: Top 50 , West Country Climbs , Feature Photo Routes from Dorset Rockfax 2012 , 3 Star Portland , ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List , Orange Spot Portland , ULMC Classics , The best 50 UK "Orange Spot" Sports Routes? , 4 - 5 Grade Climbs Portland Westcoast , Portland sub 6b , Portland , Portland, Dorset , Spanish crew 2018 , West Country Climbs: Sport Routes Grades 5 to 7a+ , Portland Trip , CC GUIDE (2008): Portland - 1-3 Star Classic & Hard Rock , UK Flowstone , Top 50 Most Logged Climbs in the South West (Sport) , Portland scheming , Pongoose Portland Sport Climbing Gems

Feedback

User Date Notes
David Staples 16 Jun, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Removed a huge block off of the crux on the Friday. Climbed it on the Saturday and can confirm the grade hasn't changed. The removal of the block (Which could easily of killed someone) didn't remove any key jugs or holds on the crux and fortunately didn't damage the route on it's way down.
βeta?
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βeta: Removed a huge block off of the crux on the Friday. Climbed it on the Saturday and can confirm the grade hasn't changed. The removal of the block (Which could easily of killed someone) didn't remove any key jugs or holds on the crux and fortunately didn't damage the route on it's way down.
JasperBWilliams 5 Sep, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Fantastic climb!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Fantastic climb!
Julie Black 14 Nov, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Not that polished, great juggy holds including some classic undercuts, and enough solid feet placements. Yes commiting move with the leg hook thing but not all that difficult, just a bit akward.
Show beta
βeta: Not that polished, great juggy holds including some classic undercuts, and enough solid feet placements. Yes commiting move with the leg hook thing but not all that difficult, just a bit akward.
nugski 18 Apr, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: great climb. lovely rock 1 of my favourite climbs as a 5.
βeta?
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βeta: great climb. lovely rock 1 of my favourite climbs as a 5.
airbournegrapefruit 23 Mar, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: yeah done this one on sunday. great route but the move between second to last and last single bolt is a bit commiting. wierd leg hook thing i think i done.
Show beta
βeta: yeah done this one on sunday. great route but the move between second to last and last single bolt is a bit commiting. wierd leg hook thing i think i done.
Mark Glaister - Assistant Editor 12 Feb, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Crocadilila is a reasonable climb but some blinkers are needed in the middle section where the wall is climbed on excellent flowstone jugs, NOTE take care near the top just below the flowstone cornice where a largish hollow flake sems a bit suspect. Warn those picnicing below.
Show beta
βeta: Crocadilila is a reasonable climb but some blinkers are needed in the middle section where the wall is climbed on excellent flowstone jugs, NOTE take care near the top just below the flowstone cornice where a largish hollow flake sems a bit suspect. Warn those picnicing below.
dixiechick 6 Jul, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Absolutely Gr8 LUV IT
βeta?
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βeta: Absolutely Gr8 LUV IT
Wilbur 28 Jun, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: If you're under five foot is it 5+?
βeta?
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βeta: If you're under five foot is it 5+?
Danos 21 Jun, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Awesome route, great fun!
βeta?
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βeta: Awesome route, great fun!
steve taylor 20 May, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Andy Long has replaced the belay bolts. Good work!
βeta?
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βeta: Andy Long has replaced the belay bolts. Good work!
TRNovice 14 Nov, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: First bolt is no longer there (14-Nov-2004). Just two holes and some powdered flowstone where it was.
βeta?
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βeta: First bolt is no longer there (14-Nov-2004). Just two holes and some powdered flowstone where it was.
Alex More 17 Oct, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Crazy rock formations and a great first lead, must do for aspiring jug lovers!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Crazy rock formations and a great first lead, must do for aspiring jug lovers!
Wilbur 1 Oct, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: I don't think it's polished at all. feet seem solid all the way up and all the handholds are huge...
βeta?
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βeta: I don't think it's polished at all. feet seem solid all the way up and all the handholds are huge...
nealh 29 Sep, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: getting rather polished? guess who's to blame!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: getting rather polished? guess who's to blame!
Wilbur 5 Apr, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: lovely climb
βeta?
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βeta: lovely climb
JPM 26 Jul, 2000 Show βeta
βeta: It is getting rather polished!!
βeta?
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βeta: It is getting rather polished!!

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