Start at a bolt belay on the traversing ledge. Climb up to the crawl and clip a bolt above in a shallow right-facing corner. Layback up to a break then climb diagonally up rightwards through the overlaps to reach a two-finger pocket in an otherwise blank wall below a break. Stuff in two fingers and crank for the break.Step left and climb up to good holds, then follow a thin crack to reach finishing jugs.

Stuart William 17/Jun/17 Lead dog

Felt very powerful. Gave it two goes - didnt quite have the beans at the end of the day to make the move from the pocket. Really good quality.

with Si P
Dan Savory 02/Jun/17 Lead RP

1st RP. Found this fairly straightforward. The big moves at the start and middle suit my style. The rest is pretty steady away.

with Paul Edwards
eddieclimb 02/Jun/17 Lead RP

Ok today, brief go end of session last time and then 1st go today after putting draws in...some nice moves...

Wise 30/May/17 Lead RP

Classic Ban Y Gor stylee. Enjoyed the butch guppy move at the bottom (now that I can do it). Pocket move is OK with a wide bridge in.

with J1_TOV
J1_TOV 30/May/17 Lead RP

Always looked up at this route as I passed it via the fixed rope. It didn't dissapoint! 2 cool and memorable moves. Thanks to Wise for the unimaginable beta which made for a steady RedP, albeit my poor clipping efforts.

_m.cox_ 04/Sep/16 Lead G/U

dropped the first move annoyingly, pulled back on straight away and did it.

yan hawkins 04/Sep/16 Lead β
with _m.cox_
tommccluskey 11/Jun/16 Lead RP
with Mark
joshdownham23 15/May/16 Lead dnf

Got lost and ended up going up the 7c on the left by accident!!

with Henry
DorsetGareth 26/Jun/15 Lead RP

Really good! Accidentally sent it fairly quickly on to rope, then got it on lead a couple of goes later.

Wise 26/Jun/15 TR dog

Tough start had me a bit foxed, the rest will go.

with Gareth
Tomas P 16/Jun/15 Lead RP

Very enjoyable, 2nd go

with Tom
Billg 28/May/15 Lead rpt
Jon_Warner 05/Apr/15 Lead dog

Restored my faith in Ban Y Gor, and to some extent the Wye sport. Good sustained route, getting established felt very hard, have we missed something - or has something come off?

with Jenni
Hidden 27/Aug/14 Lead O/S
Tomar 19/Aug/14 Lead RP

One of the best in the area. Did it 3 times, perfect PE training

Billg 17/Jun/14 Lead rpt
with Kev Little
Macca_7 08/Jun/14 Lead RP

Really good climbing and very pleased to finally tick it after falling to latch the crux dyno at least 4 times! Good route which packs a reasonable amount of climbing into its relatively short stature!

Hidden 17/Jul/13 Lead O/S
brices 01/May/13 Lead RP

close on the flash then second go again a good route

Cailean Harker ??/2012 -
Dan Jenkin 29/Jun/11 Lead RP

1st redpoint. not quite as good as Too Hot to Touch but still great moves in a great spot. keeps going right to the anchor

with Gordon Jenkin
Billg 22/Jun/11 Lead RP

clean today ground up, but have been on it before

with Will Calvert
Hidden 21/May/11 Lead
Tom Heslam 02/May/11 Lead O/S

Amazing, and tough...

with Rosea
guy xavier percival 21/Oct/10 Lead RP
with paul
Paul Robertson 21/Oct/10 Lead dog
quiffhanger ?/Oct/10 Lead RP
Hidden 02/Aug/10 Lead RP
Hidden 29/Jun/10 Lead dog
BenNorman 05/Sep/09 Lead RP

2nd 7b ever and straight after the first. 1st redpoint. Amazing climb and cleaner now so go do it!!!

9 users have this on their wishlist
High 7b+
Mid 7b+
Low 7b+
High 7b
Mid 7b
Low 7b
High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
Votes cast 18
Votes cast 19
Style of ascent
Not Set
Ground Up
Flashed (β)
Not Set