Start at a bolt belay on the traversing ledge. Climb up to the crawl and clip a bolt above in a shallow right-facing corner. Layback up to a break then climb diagonally up rightwards through the overlaps to reach a two-finger pocket in an otherwise blank wall below a break. Stuff in two fingers and crank for the break.Step left and climb up to good holds, then follow a thin crack to reach finishing jugs.

ClimberDateStyle
Stuart William 17/Jun Lead dog

Felt very powerful. Gave it two goes - didnt quite have the beans at the end of the day to make the move from the pocket. Really good quality.

with Si P
Dan Savory 02/Jun Lead RP

1st RP. Found this fairly straightforward. The big moves at the start and middle suit my style. The rest is pretty steady away.

with Paul Edwards
eddieclimb 02/Jun Lead RP

Ok today, brief go end of session last time and then 1st go today after putting draws in...some nice moves...

Wise 30/May Lead RP

Classic Ban Y Gor stylee. Enjoyed the butch guppy move at the bottom (now that I can do it). Pocket move is OK with a wide bridge in.

with J1_TOV
J1_TOV 30/May Lead RP

Always looked up at this route as I passed it via the fixed rope. It didn't dissapoint! 2 cool and memorable moves. Thanks to Wise for the unimaginable beta which made for a steady RedP, albeit my poor clipping efforts.

_m.cox_ 04/Sep/16 Lead G/U

dropped the first move annoyingly, pulled back on straight away and did it.

yan hawkins 04/Sep/16 Lead β
with _m.cox_
tommccluskey 11/Jun/16 Lead RP
with Mark
W d c ?/Jun/16 Lead RP

In an evening session. Really good moves.

with BILL G
joshdownham23 15/May/16 Lead dnf

Got lost and ended up going up the 7c on the left by accident!!

with Henry
DorsetGareth 26/Jun/15 Lead RP

Really good! Accidentally sent it fairly quickly on to rope, then got it on lead a couple of goes later.

Wise 26/Jun/15 TR dog

Tough start had me a bit foxed, the rest will go.

with Gareth
Tomas P 16/Jun/15 Lead RP

Very enjoyable, 2nd go

with Tom
Billg 28/May/15 Lead rpt
Jon_Warner 05/Apr/15 Lead dog

Restored my faith in Ban Y Gor, and to some extent the Wye sport. Good sustained route, getting established felt very hard, have we missed something - or has something come off?

with Jenni
Hidden 27/Aug/14 Lead O/S
Tomar 19/Aug/14 Lead RP

One of the best in the area. Did it 3 times, perfect PE training

Billg 17/Jun/14 Lead rpt
with Kev Little
Macca_7 08/Jun/14 Lead RP

Really good climbing and very pleased to finally tick it after falling to latch the crux dyno at least 4 times! Good route which packs a reasonable amount of climbing into its relatively short stature!

Hidden 17/Jul/13 Lead O/S
brices 01/May/13 Lead RP

close on the flash then second go again a good route

Cailean Harker ??/2012 -
Dan Jenkin 29/Jun/11 Lead RP

1st redpoint. not quite as good as Too Hot to Touch but still great moves in a great spot. keeps going right to the anchor

with Gordon Jenkin
Billg 22/Jun/11 Lead RP

clean today ground up, but have been on it before

with Will Calvert
Hidden 21/May/11 Lead
Tom Heslam 02/May/11 Lead O/S

Amazing, and tough...

with Rosea
guy xavier percival 21/Oct/10 Lead RP
with paul
Paul Robertson 21/Oct/10 Lead dog
quiffhanger ?/Oct/10 Lead RP
Hidden 02/Aug/10 Lead RP
Hidden 29/Jun/10 Lead dog
BenNorman 05/Sep/09 Lead RP

2nd 7b ever and straight after the first. 1st redpoint. Amazing climb and cleaner now so go do it!!!

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Voting
High 7b+
Mid 7b+
Low 7b+
High 7b
Mid 7b
Low 7b
High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
Votes cast 18
Votes cast 19
Style of ascent
Lead
Toproped
Not Set
Redpoint
Dogged
Onsighted
Repeated
DNF
Ground Up
Flashed (β)
Not Set