205m.

Rockfax Description
III, 205m. The word classic is overused but in this case it barely does it justice. The route finding is not straightforward in the lower section, but the climbing is good from the start and gets even better in the top half. There are numerous variations on the first half of the route and even after several ascents, you may find yourself taking a slightly different line every time. Most of the variations are of similar difficulty and there are plenty of fixed belays, so provided you end up at the foot of the fifth (crux) pitch, don't worry too much about how you got there!
1) 5c, 30m. Climb the shallow corner, which feels quite awkward straight off the deck, and an enjoyable hand-jamming crack above. Step right to belay on a flat ledge.
2) 5c, 30m. Climb up and right from the belay and follow the increasingly steep corner to a long ledge and belay at the far right of this. It is tempting to follow easy ground rightwards instead of climbing this pitch, but this ends up being harder than just sticking to the proper route.
3) 5c, 30m. Instead of climbing the crack immediately above the belay, move right and follow the hand-jamming crack to an exposed stance just below a small overhang.
4) 5c, 25m. Jam your way through the overhang (easier than it looks) and continue up the excellent crack to a stance on the ridge crest.
5) 6a+, 40m. Move left and follow the thin crack up the wall. The crux move is halfway up the pitch and involves leaving the crack and stepping into a different one on the right. Small cams (but not micro cams) are useful to protect this and there are also some pegs. Once in the right-hand-crack, follow it more easily to an exposed belay.
6) 4c, 35m. Follow easier ground just to the left of the ridge crest before coming back right.
7) 4c, 15m. The ridge crest leads to a junction with Harold et Maud on a belay below a corner.
8) 5b, 25m. The corner above the belay leads to a slab and, finally, the summit.
Descent - There are numerous fixed abseil points on the main face and abseiling Harold et Maud and Contamine usually involves using belays on both routes to avoid rope snags and congestion on busy days. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Top quality granite crack climbing. Crux pitch well protected.

Ticklists

Rebuffat's 100 Finest Routes in the Mont Blanc Massif, Batoux's 100 finest routes in the Mont Blanc massif, ROCKFAX Chamonix: Top 50, Alpine Dreamz

Feedback

UserDateNotes
roym 10 Jul Show βeta
βeta: At start of first 6a+ pitch there is a loose block in the crack
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: At start of first 6a+ pitch there is a loose block in the crack
DarwinMundy 7 Jul Show βeta
βeta: Walk off the route rather than abseiling.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Walk off the route rather than abseiling.
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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Dougie 18 Sep TR
with Andy L
with Andy L
Senna 22 Aug AltLd
with ned_85
with ned_85
Yunghui 14 Aug AltLd O/S
with 國威
with 國威
Hidden 13 Aug AltLd O/S
foostu4 13 Aug AltLd O/S Brilliant route, seems like I got the better pitches. Carried stuff up to walk off, should have descended the ridge, not gone up it...
with mjpr
Brilliant route, seems like I got the better pitches. Carried stuff up to walk off, should have descended the ridge, not gone up it...
with mjpr
SamStrong93 4 Aug AltLd dnf Knackered my ankle jumping a crevasse on the approach and then proceeded to climb 2 pitches, take a whip on lead then realise my ankle was done. Abbed down, walked back, went to hospital. Torn ligaments in my ankle. Other than that a pretty good couple pitches!
Knackered my ankle jumping a crevasse on the approach and then proceeded to climb 2 pitches, take a whip on lead then realise my ankle was done. Abbed down, walked back, went to hospital. Torn ligaments in my ankle. Other than that a pretty good couple pitches!
ned_85 4 Aug AltLd dnf Sam jumped a crevasse on the approach with a landing that could only be given a fairly generous 2 out of 10. We carried on and climbed two pitches before he pointed out his ankle had almost tripled in size. Ab'd down, walked back to the midi and sent Sam off to hospital for him to be put in a nice big cast to take back to the UK.
Sam jumped a crevasse on the approach with a landing that could only be given a fairly generous 2 out of 10. We carried on and climbed two pitches before he pointed out his ankle had almost tripled in size. Ab'd down, walked back to the midi and sent Sam off to hospital for him to be put in a nice big cast to take back to the UK.
Petarghh 3 Aug AltLd
Connorh 20 Jul AltLd It seems so much longer than 200m. I'd treat this as a 300m route.
with jackob
It seems so much longer than 200m. I'd treat this as a 300m route.
with jackob
jackob 20 Jul AltLd O/S Rockfax is a load of nonsense much longer than it suggests. Amazing route. If anyone finds a Huawei honor on one of the belay ledges please let me know as my partner thinks he left it on the ledge at P6.
with Connorh
Rockfax is a load of nonsense much longer than it suggests. Amazing route. If anyone finds a Huawei honor on one of the belay ledges please let me know as my partner thinks he left it on the ledge at P6.
with Connorh
JohnHartley 19 Jul AltLd O/S
Aled Williams 19 Jul AltLd
acrkirby 18 Jul AltLd O/S Amazing, so many pitons on crux pitch it felt like sport, stick to the right for top pitch there's an amazing rock hole through some weirdly wedged blocks
Amazing, so many pitons on crux pitch it felt like sport, stick to the right for top pitch there's an amazing rock hole through some weirdly wedged blocks
islandlynx 11 Jul AltLd Led P1 3 5 7 although they didn't necessarily match with the description. Pitch lengths are wrong in the wrongfax as it's the length of the route. Great route, loads of jamming. Find the crux pitch quite pumpy with a big sack but pulled through. The supercracks guide suggests the first hand jamming pitch is 6b.
Led P1 3 5 7 although they didn't necessarily match with the description. Pitch lengths are wrong in the wrongfax as it's the length of the route. Great route, loads of jamming. Find the crux pitch quite pumpy with a big sack but pulled through. The supercracks guide suggests the first hand jamming pitch is 6b.
Martin Bagshaw 11 Jul AltLd O/S Felt about twice the length reported by rockfax. So many hand cracks! Continually hard but good. Glad we carried sacks, such a short walk off.
Felt about twice the length reported by rockfax. So many hand cracks! Continually hard but good. Glad we carried sacks, such a short walk off.
Tom Fullen 10 Jul AltLd O/S Mint. Clean and classy climbing from bottom to top. Done before walking over to the Midi to do the Rébuffat. Almost succeeded in throwing all my possessions down the route - nailed it.
with roym
Mint. Clean and classy climbing from bottom to top. Done before walking over to the Midi to do the Rébuffat. Almost succeeded in throwing all my possessions down the route - nailed it.
with roym
roym 10 Jul AltLd Amazing climbing bottom to top
Amazing climbing bottom to top
DarwinMundy 6 Jul AltLd O/S Two parties: Thomas and Matthew, and Pascal and I. Epic route with difficulties unexpected for the grade. The first pitch and the first 6a+ we’re the crux pitches for me, both crack heavy. Had a nightmare abseil, rope jammed at the third station, luckily Pascal succeed in retrieving it. Highly recommended to walk off!
with Pascal
Two parties: Thomas and Matthew, and Pascal and I. Epic route with difficulties unexpected for the grade. The first pitch and the first 6a+ we’re the crux pitches for me, both crack heavy. Had a nightmare abseil, rope jammed at the third station, luckily Pascal succeed in retrieving it. Highly recommended to walk off!
with Pascal
WillHempstead 1 Jul AltLd O/S
with iainballantyne, Rob Giddy
with iainballantyne, Rob Giddy
iainballantyne 1 Jul AltLd O/S Fantastic route, each pitch would be *** on its own. Lead 6a/+ pitches
Fantastic route, each pitch would be *** on its own. Lead 6a/+ pitches
Robertgiddy 1 Jul AltLd One of the best rock routes I've done.
One of the best rock routes I've done.
themattyshep 29 Jun AltLd O/S Theo led the crux pitches as I wasn’t feeling great due to altitude and tiredness
with tghayne
Theo led the crux pitches as I wasn’t feeling great due to altitude and tiredness
with tghayne
Davidmcneill125 24 Jun 2nd
lukas_s 19 Jun AltLd O/S Last day of good weather. Wonderful route, although the rockfax topo is quite wrong. There is a good abseil-pist between this route and the one to the left (stick to the belays with chains)
Last day of good weather. Wonderful route, although the rockfax topo is quite wrong. There is a good abseil-pist between this route and the one to the left (stick to the belays with chains)
Cbulman 17 Jun AltLd O/S
KevinHuber 17 Jun -
Hidden 30 May -
Hidden 18 Apr AltLd O/S
Blackcountrybill 20 Aug, 2018 AltLd
Seán Fortune 16 Aug, 2018 AltLd O/S Unbelievable. Best route of the trip, not a bad pitch on it. Led the even pitches. Definitely had a few variants from the guide, but doesn't really matter as they're all good. Walking off is way easier than abbing- carrying bags didn't really cause any issues bar on the 4th (chimney) pitch, and it's miles quicker.
with Murphy
Unbelievable. Best route of the trip, not a bad pitch on it. Led the even pitches. Definitely had a few variants from the guide, but doesn't really matter as they're all good. Walking off is way easier than abbing- carrying bags didn't really cause any issues bar on the 4th (chimney) pitch, and it's miles quicker.
with Murphy
Hidden 8 Aug, 2018 AltLd O/S
murray 8 Aug, 2018 AltLd O/S
with Luke
with Luke
Hidden 8 Aug, 2018 AltLd O/S
Hidden 8 Aug, 2018 AltLd O/S
Hidden 7 Aug, 2018 AltLd
Gemmazrobo 3 Aug, 2018 AltLd O/S Amazingggg, position rock etc. took 6b pitch in middler, super crevassed.
Amazingggg, position rock etc. took 6b pitch in middler, super crevassed.
Just Will 3 Aug, 2018 AltLd O/S
with Billy
with Billy
Hidden ?Aug, 2018 AltLd
Tangerine_Kingdom 29 Jul, 2018 AltLd O/S Descent by walking off the top back to Midi is easier. Otherwise, watch out for stuck rope on the abseils. Pitch 1 - avoid going right up a kind of corner ramp Pitch 9 - Finish left of the ridge, avoiding the chimney with boulders inside. Otherwise the rope drag is horrendous. Good belay stations and an points.
with Gregor, Ewa
Descent by walking off the top back to Midi is easier. Otherwise, watch out for stuck rope on the abseils. Pitch 1 - avoid going right up a kind of corner ramp Pitch 9 - Finish left of the ridge, avoiding the chimney with boulders inside. Otherwise the rope drag is horrendous. Good belay stations and an points.
with Gregor, Ewa
tompilgrem 23 Jul, 2018 Lead O/S Carried sacks, made the climbing a bit harder but still managed it all clean. The roof come chimney bit was a struggle! But thankfully no jammed ropes this way! Cracking route, one of the best so far!
Carried sacks, made the climbing a bit harder but still managed it all clean. The roof come chimney bit was a struggle! But thankfully no jammed ropes this way! Cracking route, one of the best so far!
bobpilgrem 23 Jul, 2018 2nd Tom lead whole route- great effort. I was was forced to extreme dog ( when in France .....) Carried sack which made it a very long and arduous day(and good).
with Tom
Tom lead whole route- great effort. I was was forced to extreme dog ( when in France .....) Carried sack which made it a very long and arduous day(and good).
with Tom
davidswannn 8 May, 2018 2nd
sroelants ?Sep, 2017 -
steve_gibbs 25 Aug, 2017 AltLd O/S
with Owen Silitch
with Owen Silitch
Jamie Skelton 17 Aug, 2017 AltLd O/S
with Jack Morris
with Jack Morris
jamieevans 16 Aug, 2017 AltLd On the crux my phone randomly started playing ACDC hell ain't a bad place to be. Helped to give it some welly.
On the crux my phone randomly started playing ACDC hell ain't a bad place to be. Helped to give it some welly.
jimbonfire 16 Aug, 2017 AltLd
Stickle Tarn 14 Aug, 2017 AltLd O/S I took the 6a+ pitch. Chose to abseil which I don't recommend, carry backpack and walk off the summit. We had to cut our ropes after the second abseil and continue down with 40m of rope. Loads of cracks etc waiting to snag ropes. 4.5 hrs to climb, unfortunately nearly the same for the descent !
I took the 6a+ pitch. Chose to abseil which I don't recommend, carry backpack and walk off the summit. We had to cut our ropes after the second abseil and continue down with 40m of rope. Loads of cracks etc waiting to snag ropes. 4.5 hrs to climb, unfortunately nearly the same for the descent !
Hidden 13 Aug, 2017 Lead
seanhendo123 13 Aug, 2017 Lead O/S Stunning route, well worth the slog back to the midi....first cpl abs have huge potential for stuck ropes
Stunning route, well worth the slog back to the midi....first cpl abs have huge potential for stuck ropes
Rharrison 13 Aug, 2017 Lead O/S W/ mike. Lead everything, each pitch was great! Abbed off which turned into a mini epic due to stuck ropes, missed the lift and stayed in the cosmiques
W/ mike. Lead everything, each pitch was great! Abbed off which turned into a mini epic due to stuck ropes, missed the lift and stayed in the cosmiques
Jo sumner 5 Aug, 2017 2nd
Hidden 3 Aug, 2017 AltLd O/S
JoeCoxson 23 Jul, 2017 AltLd O/S What a day. Came across from the Torino hut and climbing with bags so we could carry on to the midi. Route finding was indeed difficult in the lower sections, but we were definitely on track for the steepening corner and then on until the summit. Ended up doing the crux in a mega 50m pitch because we belayed too low and didn't split up the pitch. Rockfax pitch lengths were alright lower down, but up the top we did 3 50m pitches to get onto the top; much more than it accounts for. Raced back to the midi in poor vis, only to wait for an hour in a queue to get down, but that just made the beer in the valley taste ever better.
What a day. Came across from the Torino hut and climbing with bags so we could carry on to the midi. Route finding was indeed difficult in the lower sections, but we were definitely on track for the steepening corner and then on until the summit. Ended up doing the crux in a mega 50m pitch because we belayed too low and didn't split up the pitch. Rockfax pitch lengths were alright lower down, but up the top we did 3 50m pitches to get onto the top; much more than it accounts for. Raced back to the midi in poor vis, only to wait for an hour in a queue to get down, but that just made the beer in the valley taste ever better.
lukegorman 23 Jul, 2017 AltLd O/S amazing climb
amazing climb
Hidden 15 Jul, 2017 AltLd
andycash 6 Jul, 2017 AltLd O/S
with LucaC
with LucaC
LucaC 6 Jul, 2017 AltLd O/S Lead pitches 1,3,5,6. Two horrible rope snags on the way down required reclimbing some sections. 50 minutes to the route, 6 hours up and down, 2 hours back to the midi... only to find the lift broken and another 2 hour wait.
Lead pitches 1,3,5,6. Two horrible rope snags on the way down required reclimbing some sections. 50 minutes to the route, 6 hours up and down, 2 hours back to the midi... only to find the lift broken and another 2 hour wait.
Steve Woollard 20 Jun, 2017 AltLd Absolutely amazing
with Gavin
Absolutely amazing
with Gavin
Hidden 10 Jun, 2017 AltLd rpt
Matt Harle 13 Apr, 2017 Lead O/S
janegallwey 12 Apr, 2017 AltLd O/S
Hidden 2 Apr, 2017 AltLd
Hidden 26 Aug, 2016 AltLd O/S
robgixer 15 Aug, 2016 AltLd O/S
perrys 15 Aug, 2016 AltLd dog
with Rob Goodman
with Rob Goodman
Vincej 11 Aug, 2016 2nd
with Fred Drouet
with Fred Drouet
Wizzy 11 Aug, 2016 AltLd O/S One of the finest routes I've done. Pitch 5 is quite simply fucking awesome
One of the finest routes I've done. Pitch 5 is quite simply fucking awesome
Nemmie ?Aug, 2016 AltLd
Lakesben 30 Jul, 2016 Lead O/S Awesome route and had it to ourselves (probably because the weather was due to crap out mid afternoon). Climbing is easy and the crux is soft. Abseil became an epic with jammed ropes and hard to find belays. Then it did crap out and instead of being back at the midi station we were getting colder and wetter trying to descend. There's a couple of good half ropes on the final ab if anyone is there soon ish and fancies climbing up to get them :(
with The Plough
Awesome route and had it to ourselves (probably because the weather was due to crap out mid afternoon). Climbing is easy and the crux is soft. Abseil became an epic with jammed ropes and hard to find belays. Then it did crap out and instead of being back at the midi station we were getting colder and wetter trying to descend. There's a couple of good half ropes on the final ab if anyone is there soon ish and fancies climbing up to get them :(
with The Plough
dpalmer1961 19 Jul, 2016 Lead dog
Hidden 19 Jul, 2016 AltLd O/S
Graeme Barr 17 Jul, 2016 AltLd
with Neil
with Neil
monsteratt 9 Jul, 2016 AltLd O/S Been on the list for a while. Very enjoyable. Crux pitch not too hard, especially compared to awkward wide sections lower down ;-)
Been on the list for a while. Very enjoyable. Crux pitch not too hard, especially compared to awkward wide sections lower down ;-)
Martin Haworth 6 Jul, 2016 Lead O/S Fantastic route, one of the best I've done. 4 hours on the route, back in Chamonix for happy hour.
Fantastic route, one of the best I've done. 4 hours on the route, back in Chamonix for happy hour.
Matt Groom 26 Jun, 2016 AltLd
with Ben Coope, harry_lewis
with Ben Coope, harry_lewis
harry_lewis 26 Jun, 2016 AltLd O/S
with Matt Groom, Ben Coope
with Matt Groom, Ben Coope
bencoope 26 Jun, 2016 AltLd O/S A lot easier than the Contamine on the Midi
A lot easier than the Contamine on the Midi
Pina 22 Jun, 2016 AltLd Accidentally set off up the 6b start, fun but very busy route with some unpleasant local guides.
with Brian Pollock, Alfie
Accidentally set off up the 6b start, fun but very busy route with some unpleasant local guides.
with Brian Pollock, Alfie
Brian Pollock 22 Jun, 2016 AltLd O/S Great route marred only by the number of teams on it
with Pina
Great route marred only by the number of teams on it
with Pina
Alfie Maun 22 Jun, 2016 AltLd O/S
stanleynkk 8 Jun, 2016 AltLd
Richard Kendrick 8 Jun, 2016 AltLd O/S
Hugh Simons 7 Jun, 2016 AltLd O/S Led the first 4 pitches to below the 2 crux pitches which David led in fine style. Calum led a couple more pitches to just below the top before we had to ab off. The walk back to the Midi from the bottom to catch the last lift was brutal... All pitches had amazing climbing, great route!
Led the first 4 pitches to below the 2 crux pitches which David led in fine style. Calum led a couple more pitches to just below the top before we had to ab off. The walk back to the Midi from the bottom to catch the last lift was brutal... All pitches had amazing climbing, great route!
calumhicks 7 Jun, 2016 AltLd O/S Best rock route I've done yet. Definitely better than rebuffat on south face of midi (and less busy!). Made it from the base of the climb to the midi in less than an hour to catch the last lift...
Best rock route I've done yet. Definitely better than rebuffat on south face of midi (and less busy!). Made it from the base of the climb to the midi in less than an hour to catch the last lift...
frejashannon 10 Apr, 2016 AltLd O/S
Hidden 10 Apr, 2016 AltLd O/S
Rob Royle 9 Sep, 2015 2nd Did the 6b direct start, fantastic route!
with Mountain Guide
Did the 6b direct start, fantastic route!
with Mountain Guide
danJBA 7 Sep, 2015 AltLd O/S
Hidden 16 Jul, 2015 AltLd
jac00 5 Jul, 2015 AltLd dnf
with Mike
with Mike
DaveThexton 28 Jun, 2015 AltLd O/S
with Dave Searle
with Dave Searle
Hidden 29 May, 2015 AltLd O/S
ndraper1 17 May, 2015 AltLd O/S Each pitch incredible and flows well. 40m dihedral is worth arguing over. Crux's are soft for the grade. https://nickdraperupslidedown.wordpress.com/
Each pitch incredible and flows well. 40m dihedral is worth arguing over. Crux's are soft for the grade. https://nickdraperupslidedown.wordpress.com/
Hidden 17 May, 2015 AltLd O/S
nige pacer 21 Apr, 2015 AltLd O/S Just first 2 pitches alas
with Andy Houseman
Just first 2 pitches alas
with Andy Houseman
davkeo 23 Aug, 2014 AltLd O/S Lead crux although I didn't find it harder than some of the other bits. Prob the most enjoyable pitch iv climbed. Crack offered so much. Jam, layback, high step, bridge. Excellent and engrossing.
Lead crux although I didn't find it harder than some of the other bits. Prob the most enjoyable pitch iv climbed. Crack offered so much. Jam, layback, high step, bridge. Excellent and engrossing.
Hidden 23 Aug, 2014 AltLd O/S
simondunf 23 Aug, 2014 AltLd O/S
with caspar
with caspar
mim tiller 23 Aug, 2014 AltLd O/S
with davkeo
with davkeo
jimmatthews 5 Aug, 2014 AltLd O/S Good style. Sung we are the champions to the fun Italians climbing next to us.
Good style. Sung we are the champions to the fun Italians climbing next to us.
Hidden 5 Aug, 2014 AltLd
Paul Collins ?Aug, 2014 AltLd O/S
with Neil Byrne
with Neil Byrne
reima 25 Jul, 2014 AltLd dnf Turned back 2 (easy?) pitches before the top as the clouds started to roll in and felt no need for epics.
with Niamh
Turned back 2 (easy?) pitches before the top as the clouds started to roll in and felt no need for epics.
with Niamh
zcsharp 13 Jun, 2014 AltLd O/S Such good climbing, on the ab down the rope got stuck and i had to climb the crux of harlod et maud to get the rope free.
with Al
Such good climbing, on the ab down the rope got stuck and i had to climb the crux of harlod et maud to get the rope free.
with Al
Ali D ?Jun, 2014 AltLd
with Jamie R
with Jamie R
niallsash ?Jun, 2014 2nd
Piglet69 ?Jun, 2014 2nd
McGuinness 7 Apr, 2014 AltLd O/S
with Emily
with Emily
wi11 7 Apr, 2014 AltLd O/S 2, 3, 6 Amazing route!
with Stephen
2, 3, 6 Amazing route!
with Stephen
Hidden 6 Apr, 2014 Lead
Naomi Havercroft 6 Apr, 2014 2nd Amazing climbing, beautiful views and great weather. Really good climb.
with Matthew Forshaw
Amazing climbing, beautiful views and great weather. Really good climb.
with Matthew Forshaw
chapmand 31 Mar, 2014 AltLd Rory led the cruxes.
with Rory Brown
Rory led the cruxes.
with Rory Brown
Hidden 31 Mar, 2014 AltLd
walts4 ?Mar, 2014 AltLd
with stan & William
with stan & William
mike mo ??, 2014 -
TommyMcG ?Aug, 2013 Lead O/S
Kris ?Aug, 2013 AltLd O/S
Hidden 30 Jul, 2013 AltLd rpt
Hidden 30 Jul, 2013 AltLd O/S
Hidden 18 Jun, 2013 AltLd O/S
Ahab 16 Jun, 2013 AltLd O/S Beautiful finger crack climbing on crux pitch.
Beautiful finger crack climbing on crux pitch.
Hidden ?Jun, 2013 AltLd O/S
Alasdair Fulton 18 Apr, 2013 AltLd O/S Nice wee route.
with Morgan, Searler
Nice wee route.
with Morgan, Searler
edek_w ??, 2013 -
Hidden ??, 2013 -
jcw ??, 2013 -
Tobias at Home ??, 2013 -
Jay C 22 Jul, 2012 AltLd O/S
with Geddas
with Geddas
Hidden ?Jul, 2012 AltLd
sgl 2 Apr, 2012 AltLd
with tebs, viv
with tebs, viv
Hidden 2 Apr, 2012 AltLd O/S
liamo333 ??, 2012 -
frost 4 Oct, 2011 AltLd O/S
with D Almond
with D Almond
Adam Booth 31 Aug, 2011 AltLd O/S Amazing! Some of the best climbing I've ever done, especially the crux crack on the 50m wall, but all of it is good. Ropes got stuck twice on the raps which was fun!
with gowla
Amazing! Some of the best climbing I've ever done, especially the crux crack on the 50m wall, but all of it is good. Ropes got stuck twice on the raps which was fun!
with gowla
gowla 31 Aug, 2011 AltLd dog
with adam booth
with adam booth
Hidden 28 Aug, 2011 AltLd dnf
GaryK 17 Aug, 2011 AltLd O/S Stuart led both hard pitches as I was suffering with the altitude. An excellent route. A classic of Chamonix granite climbing. Much more enjoyable than the Rebuffat route on the S Face of the Midi. Use the description in Piola's, (french), Tome 2 topo guide rather than the english edition as it also describes the other routes on the face, of which there are many. It's easy to end up on the wrong route as there are so many bits of gear around. The route itself has been equipped with twin bolt belays by the local guides, and there are about 10 pegs/stuck friends/wires etc in the route. We used a complete set of Metolius cams and a set of WC light rocks. 50m ropes will be sufficient. Enjoy.
with Stuart McAleese
Stuart led both hard pitches as I was suffering with the altitude. An excellent route. A classic of Chamonix granite climbing. Much more enjoyable than the Rebuffat route on the S Face of the Midi. Use the description in Piola's, (french), Tome 2 topo guide rather than the english edition as it also describes the other routes on the face, of which there are many. It's easy to end up on the wrong route as there are so many bits of gear around. The route itself has been equipped with twin bolt belays by the local guides, and there are about 10 pegs/stuck friends/wires etc in the route. We used a complete set of Metolius cams and a set of WC light rocks. 50m ropes will be sufficient. Enjoy.
with Stuart McAleese
charlesmfrench 3 Aug, 2011 AltLd O/S 2,L,2,L,2,L,2,L,2,L.
with Anette
2,L,2,L,2,L,2,L,2,L.
with Anette
Ben Briggs 26 Jun, 2011 Lead O/S
with Luca
with Luca
Hidden 24 May, 2011 AltLd
stevepotter 11 Sep, 2010 -
with Matt
with Matt
Tobias at Home ??, 2010 -
Hidden 23 Aug, 2009 AltLd
AnnaBacklund ?Jul, 2008 AltLd O/S
Dave Searle 23 Jun, 2008 Lead
with john
with john
zero six ??, 2007 AltLd O/S
dannyboy83 ?Jul, 2005 AltLd O/S
with feilx
with feilx
feilx ??, 2005 AltLd O/S
haydng ??, 2000 AltLd O/S
Rich Cross - Alpine Guides ?Jul, 1999 AltLd got ropes stuck twice on way down.
with Airlie Anderson
got ropes stuck twice on way down.
with Airlie Anderson
andy_pemberton ?Aug, 1996 AltLd dnf Got to the big, comfy ledge below the crux. Knakered and remembering it was the one year aniversary of a friend's accident... we bottled it back down!
with Chris Richards
Got to the big, comfy ledge below the crux. Knakered and remembering it was the one year aniversary of a friend's accident... we bottled it back down!
with Chris Richards
alkira 26 Jun, 1994 -
with kerry atkey
with kerry atkey
Hidden ?Apr, 1993 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?Aug, 1989 AltLd
Richard Weller 25 Jul, 1986 AltLd Approx date
with john sanders
Approx date
with john sanders
Neil McA 7 Jul, 1984 AltLd O/S Great climbing especially on the crux finger crack pitch. Defo walk off the top - easy to do.
with Andy Perkins
Great climbing especially on the crux finger crack pitch. Defo walk off the top - easy to do.
with Andy Perkins
alpinist63 25 Jul, 1980 AltLd
Hidden ??, 1980 -
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Votes cast 3
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Votes cast 21
Votes cast 27
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