Rockfax Description
An exciting direct line. Climb the blunt rib on the right-hand side of the face to a flake. Follow this and, from the top of the crack, climb the wall via a long reach or short hop from the snapped flake. Finish with a flourish. Stopping to place a cam above the crux is pumpy but a good idea if you are struggling. © Rockfax

FA. Paul Bolger 1979

Ticklists: Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List, Hardish grit routes that have good gear but aren't staminafests, Trad climbs for sport climbers, World Graded List, Peak Rock/14/Gritstone After the Gold Rush, Caff's 100 Ace E5s, Caff's 100 Best E5's, Ultimate E5 ticklist, Burbage, Millstone and Beyond in 3 stars, Definitive *** Peak Grit.

beni 19/Nov/17 Lead
Hidden 06/Nov/17 Lead dnf
The old James turnbull 25/Oct/17 Lead
with Gus
Gus 25/Oct/17 Lead
with james turnbull
Teappleby 22/Sep/17 Lead dnf

Couldn't work out a way to tech past the crux and so eventually had a jump go. Rain stopped play.

with Tom Bennell, Harry Lewis
JCAshman 20/Sep/17 Lead G/U

2nd go. Great moves and good gear!

Rory_Cummings_NI 05/May/17 Lead dnf
with Hamish
Scott Quinn 29/Apr/17 Lead RP

steepest bit of gritstone in the world - safe as houses

with tunnahr
Hidden 10/Oct/16 Lead
Flavio 27/Aug/16 Lead dog
MichaelGallimore 27/Aug/16 Lead dnf

Took the fall a few times before handing the lead over to Flavio. It took me about 10 tries to stick the move on second, then another 5 to stick the next ones. Reachy.

with Ben Ax, Flavio, Ellie
Patrick Hill 01/Jul/16 Lead G/U
with Rach
malx 13/Apr/16 Lead G/U

Lowered off years ago when I stood no chance. Great route!

NDD 05/Apr/16 Lead β
with tony stone
Hidden 23/Feb/16 Lead RP
deacondeacon 17/Oct/15 Lead RP

Failed on the onsight, failed on the ground up, but just managed it on the headpoint. Great route, but the crux for me was getting to the crux with enough juice in the tank . For the crux I went left hand on the crimp, then left hand again to the break.

Theo Moore - UKC and UKH 13/Oct/15 Lead G/U

In the dark. Scary on the top out when I couldn't see anything. This new setup for logging climbs is shite on a mobile.

pearson9596 12/Jul/15 Lead dog
Mark Stevenson 12/Jul/15 2nd dog
stevorobs3 ?/Jul/15 2nd dog
Andy Peak 1 31/May/15 Lead

friction not grate today fell of allot, so much fun!

Andy Peak 1 16/Apr/15 Lead

Wow how much fun, enjoyd the falling of as much as the climbing up, Top gear placed on lead, can't wait to head back for the full ground up all gear on lead! The hardest move iv dun above gear!

with Si
robertmctague 22/Mar/15 Lead G/U

So good.

Hidden 01/Nov/14 Lead O/S
Dave Turnbull, BMC 16/Sep/14 Lead rpt

Seconded this in 2010

with Mick Mortimer
Matt Cooke 27/Aug/14 Lead O/S
Teappleby 21/Jul/14 TR dnf

Pete wanted to practice setting up top ropes for SPA assessment, so I said I'd have a go at this route. Got to the crux section, but was so boxed. My sport strength has dropped off a bit since Easter!

Hidden 05/Jul/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 29/Mar/14 Lead dnf
dominic lee 23/Nov/13 Lead rpt
with dave turnbull
quiffhanger 22/Sep/13 Lead β

Loads of beta and pre placed gear made for a pretty low-effort ascent. Still decided to ignore the sane beta for the crux and pull out a sketch desperate slap instead!

Haydn Jones 22/Sep/13 Lead G/U

2nd try ground up

marcduhig 22/Sep/13 Lead O/S

Gear was in before the crux but in my defence of calling it an onsite the gear is really not the problem. Came down to the hand jam twice before jumping to the rail.

with Ross, Haydn
Keendan 18/Jun/13 Lead RP

3rd go today (with gear in). Should have pulled harder the first time

with Hayden Richards
Hidden 17/Feb/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 16/Feb/13 Lead dnf
dominic lee 13/Jan/13 Lead rpt
jacobjacob 13/Jan/13 Lead RP

Ground up, second go after about 6 foot pops on the onsight, the first 5 of which I somehow managed to stay on... wierd.

nathanlee 13/Jan/13 Lead

3rd go GU, on Jacobs gear. Big fight, I'm unfit.

with Crew
The old James turnbull ??/2013 Lead
JBO 08/Sep/12 2nd β

Watched a very talented climber do laps on this for a film, and was asked if I wanted to second. So pumpy!

dannyboy83 23/Aug/12 Lead O/S

Pumpy, used right hand on the minging crimp unlike all the photos I've just seen now

Jethro ?/Jun/12 TR
pmurdy 21/Apr/12 Lead dnf
mwatson 21/Apr/12 Lead rpt
Apharri 05/Mar/12 Lead RP

had to dyno

JRae 07/May/11 2nd
Ethan 13/Nov/10 Lead

3rd go, ground up

with Don Walker
TomPR 02/Oct/10 Lead
Hidden 02/Oct/10 Lead rpt
Hidden 02/Oct/10 Lead O/S
Tez29 03/Jun/10 Lead dog

One fall from the crux. Too tired on following attempts. Definitely get next time...

with Tom, Ivan
Hidden 28/Oct/09 -
dan gibson 18/Oct/09 Lead RP
with michael porter
Hidden 18/Oct/09 2nd
Gus 11/Oct/09 Lead O/S
Toby Dunn ?/Aug/08 Lead
with JulesV
switch ?/May/08 Lead O/S
with Leanne
Hidden 03/Nov/07 Lead β
Ram MkiV 03/Nov/07 Lead O/S

steady, wouldn't have complained at e4.... really really good though.

with Barrows & Eddie B
Hidden 30/Oct/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Sep/07 Lead rpt
lx ?/Apr/06 Lead


Boy ??/2006 -
Adam Ellwood 29/Oct/05 Lead
with sven, kells
ukb & bmc shark 20/Aug/05 Lead rpt
with Chris Williams
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe ??/2005 2nd β
with Nic Sellers
Hidden ??/2005 -
Hidden ??/2005 Lead O/S
Jon Read ?/Jun/02 Lead O/S

6b if you're less than 5ft5!

with Pete Squires
Dave Musgrove Jnr 28/Aug/01 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Jul/01 Lead G/U
CrashMat Rob 12/Aug/00 TR
with Miles, Martin Whelan, Nicky
CrashMat Rob 06/Nov/99 TR
with Nicky
CrashMat Rob 17/May/98 TR
with Nicky
sadams 15/Mar/98 Lead O/S
Hidden 12/Oct/91 Lead O/S
Chris Craggs ??/1980 Lead
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High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
Votes cast 19
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 20
Votes cast 16
Style of ascent
Not Set
Ground Up
Flashed (β)
Not Set