12m.

Rockfax Description
An exciting direct line. Climb the blunt rib on the right-hand side of the face to a flake. Follow this and, from the top of the crack, climb the wall via a long reach or short hop from the snapped flake. Finish with a flourish. Stopping to place a cam above the crux is pumpy but a good idea if you are struggling. © Rockfax

FA. Paul Bolger 1979

Ticklists

Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List, Hardish grit routes that have good gear but aren't staminafests, Trad climbs for sport climbers, World Graded List, Peak Rock/14/Gritstone After the Gold Rush, Caff's 100 Ace E5s, Caff's 100 Best E5's, Ultimate E5 ticklist, Burbage, Millstone and Beyond in 3 stars, Definitive *** Peak Grit, Rockfax Eastern Grit: Peaks and Pinnacles

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UserDateNotes
Boy 11 Jun, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: The friend 2.5 is only essential if you are a big gay bear, all others will press on without and not waste the effort.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The friend 2.5 is only essential if you are a big gay bear, all others will press on without and not waste the effort.
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Logged Ascents

UserDateStyleNotes & Partners
Hidden 15 May Lead dnf
Patrick Hill 12 May Lead rpt
with Adam brown
with Adam brown
Alex hall 12 May Lead G/U Technically not ‘that’ hard of a move, just a longgg way
Technically not ‘that’ hard of a move, just a longgg way
Hidden 4 May Lead G/U
Weieran 21 Apr Lead O/S
ashtond6 11 Apr Lead rpt Was going ground up but abbed in to place gear due to time
Was going ground up but abbed in to place gear due to time
ashtond6 6 Apr Lead dnf balls. Worked it out on big lob 5/6? by then I was too battered to actually do it. Hard to work out when pumped, especially considering there are so few holds.
balls. Worked it out on big lob 5/6? by then I was too battered to actually do it. Hard to work out when pumped, especially considering there are so few holds.
Kike Kikon 30 Mar TR dog Did it twice with one fall on the long move. Felt easy for the grade. Will be back for the headpoint
Did it twice with one fall on the long move. Felt easy for the grade. Will be back for the headpoint
Jmpollard 26 Feb Lead G/U 3rd go ground up, really really good route! Good weather too, climbed shirtless all day! In February!
with Callum Smith
3rd go ground up, really really good route! Good weather too, climbed shirtless all day! In February!
with Callum Smith
Hannes B 28 Oct, 2018 Lead
with Joss, Tom
with Joss, Tom
Teappleby 18 Apr, 2018 Lead dnf Climbed controlled and well to crux, fall of crux, repeat. I'm getting abit bored of falling off this route now.
Climbed controlled and well to crux, fall of crux, repeat. I'm getting abit bored of falling off this route now.
Hidden 18 Apr, 2018 Lead G/U
beni 19 Nov, 2017 Lead
Hidden 6 Nov, 2017 Lead dnf
The old James turnbull 25 Oct, 2017 Lead
with Gus
with Gus
Gus 25 Oct, 2017 Lead
with james turnbull
with james turnbull
Teappleby 22 Sep, 2017 Lead dnf Couldn't work out a way to tech past the crux and so eventually had a jump go. Rain stopped play.
Couldn't work out a way to tech past the crux and so eventually had a jump go. Rain stopped play.
JCAshman 20 Sep, 2017 Lead G/U 2nd go. Great moves and good gear!
2nd go. Great moves and good gear!
Rory_Cummings_NI 5 May, 2017 Lead dnf
with Hamish Maslen
with Hamish Maslen
Scott Quinn 29 Apr, 2017 Lead RP steepest bit of gritstone in the world - safe as houses
with tunnahr
steepest bit of gritstone in the world - safe as houses
with tunnahr
Hidden 10 Oct, 2016 Lead
Flavio 27 Aug, 2016 Lead dog
Hidden 27 Aug, 2016 Lead dnf
Patrick Hill 1 Jul, 2016 Lead G/U
with Rach
with Rach
malx 13 Apr, 2016 Lead G/U Lowered off years ago when I stood no chance. Great route!
Lowered off years ago when I stood no chance. Great route!
NDD 5 Apr, 2016 Lead β
with tony stone
with tony stone
Hidden 23 Feb, 2016 Lead RP
deacondeacon 17 Oct, 2015 Lead RP Failed on the onsight, failed on the ground up, but just managed it on the headpoint. Great route, but the crux for me was getting to the crux with enough juice in the tank . For the crux I went left hand on the crimp, then left hand again to the break.
Failed on the onsight, failed on the ground up, but just managed it on the headpoint. Great route, but the crux for me was getting to the crux with enough juice in the tank . For the crux I went left hand on the crimp, then left hand again to the break.
Theo Moore - UKC and UKH 13 Oct, 2015 Lead G/U In the dark. Scary on the top out when I couldn't see anything.
In the dark. Scary on the top out when I couldn't see anything.
pearson9596 12 Jul, 2015 Lead dog
Mark Stevenson 12 Jul, 2015 2nd dog
stevorobs3 ?Jul, 2015 2nd dog
Andy Peak 1 31 May, 2015 Lead friction not grate today fell of allot, so much fun!
friction not grate today fell of allot, so much fun!
Andy Peak 1 16 Apr, 2015 Lead Wow how much fun, enjoyd the falling of as much as the climbing up, Top gear placed on lead, can't wait to head back for the full ground up all gear on lead! The hardest move iv dun above gear!
with Si
Wow how much fun, enjoyd the falling of as much as the climbing up, Top gear placed on lead, can't wait to head back for the full ground up all gear on lead! The hardest move iv dun above gear!
with Si
robertmctague 22 Mar, 2015 Lead G/U So good.
So good.
Hidden 1 Nov, 2014 Lead O/S
Dave Turnbull, BMC 16 Sep, 2014 Lead rpt Seconded this in 2010
with Mick Mortimer
Seconded this in 2010
with Mick Mortimer
Matt Cooke 27 Aug, 2014 Lead O/S
Teappleby 21 Jul, 2014 TR dnf Pete wanted to practice setting up top ropes for SPA assessment, so I said I'd have a go at this route. Got to the crux section, but was so boxed. My sport strength has dropped off a bit since Easter!
Pete wanted to practice setting up top ropes for SPA assessment, so I said I'd have a go at this route. Got to the crux section, but was so boxed. My sport strength has dropped off a bit since Easter!
Hidden 5 Jul, 2014 Lead O/S
Hidden 29 Mar, 2014 Lead dnf
dominic lee 23 Nov, 2013 Lead rpt
with dave turnbull
with dave turnbull
quiffhanger 22 Sep, 2013 Lead β Loads of beta and pre placed gear made for a pretty low-effort ascent. Still decided to ignore the sane beta for the crux and pull out a sketch desperate slap instead!
Loads of beta and pre placed gear made for a pretty low-effort ascent. Still decided to ignore the sane beta for the crux and pull out a sketch desperate slap instead!
Haydn Jones 22 Sep, 2013 Lead G/U 2nd try ground up
2nd try ground up
marcduhig 22 Sep, 2013 Lead O/S Gear was in before the crux but in my defence of calling it an onsite the gear is really not the problem. Came down to the hand jam twice before jumping to the rail.
Gear was in before the crux but in my defence of calling it an onsite the gear is really not the problem. Came down to the hand jam twice before jumping to the rail.
Keendan 18 Jun, 2013 Lead RP 3rd go today (with gear in). Should have pulled harder the first time
with Hayden Richards
3rd go today (with gear in). Should have pulled harder the first time
with Hayden Richards
Hidden 17 Feb, 2013 Lead O/S
Hidden 16 Feb, 2013 Lead dnf
dominic lee 13 Jan, 2013 Lead rpt
jacobjacob 13 Jan, 2013 Lead RP Ground up, second go after about 6 foot pops on the onsight, the first 5 of which I somehow managed to stay on... wierd.
Ground up, second go after about 6 foot pops on the onsight, the first 5 of which I somehow managed to stay on... wierd.
nathanlee 13 Jan, 2013 Lead 3rd go GU, on Jacobs gear. Big fight, I'm unfit.
with Crew
3rd go GU, on Jacobs gear. Big fight, I'm unfit.
with Crew
The old James turnbull ??, 2013 Lead
JBO 8 Sep, 2012 2nd β Watched a very talented climber do laps on this for a film, and was asked if I wanted to second. So pumpy!
Watched a very talented climber do laps on this for a film, and was asked if I wanted to second. So pumpy!
dannyboy83 23 Aug, 2012 Lead O/S Pumpy, used right hand on the minging crimp unlike all the photos I've just seen now
Pumpy, used right hand on the minging crimp unlike all the photos I've just seen now
Jethro ?Jun, 2012 TR
pmurdy 21 Apr, 2012 Lead dnf
mwatson 21 Apr, 2012 Lead rpt
Apharri 5 Mar, 2012 Lead RP had to dyno
had to dyno
JRae 7 May, 2011 2nd
with mwatson
with mwatson
Ethan 13 Nov, 2010 Lead 3rd go, ground up
with Don Walker
3rd go, ground up
with Don Walker
TomPR 2 Oct, 2010 Lead
Hidden 2 Oct, 2010 Lead rpt
Hidden 2 Oct, 2010 Lead O/S
Tez29 3 Jun, 2010 Lead dog One fall from the crux. Too tired on following attempts. Definitely get next time...
with Tom, Ivan
One fall from the crux. Too tired on following attempts. Definitely get next time...
with Tom, Ivan
hamer89 12 Dec, 2009 Lead RP
Hidden 28 Oct, 2009 -
dan gibson 18 Oct, 2009 Lead RP
Hidden 18 Oct, 2009 2nd
Gus 11 Oct, 2009 Lead O/S
Toby Dunn ?Aug, 2008 Lead
with JulesV
with JulesV
Si Witcher ?May, 2008 Lead O/S
Hidden 3 Nov, 2007 Lead β
Ram MkiV 3 Nov, 2007 Lead O/S steady, wouldn't have complained at e4.... really really good though.
with Barrows & Eddie B
steady, wouldn't have complained at e4.... really really good though.
with Barrows & Eddie B
Hidden 30 Oct, 2007 Lead O/S
Hidden 11 Sep, 2007 Lead rpt
lx ?Apr, 2006 Lead headpoint
headpoint
Boy ??, 2006 -
Adam Ellwood 29 Oct, 2005 Lead
with sven, kells
with sven, kells
UKB Shark 20 Aug, 2005 Lead rpt
with Chris Williams
with Chris Williams
Tom Briggs ??, 2005 2nd β
with Nic Sellers
with Nic Sellers
Hidden ??, 2005 -
Hidden ??, 2005 Lead O/S
Jon Read ?Jun, 2002 Lead O/S 6b if you're less than 5ft5!
with Pete Squires
6b if you're less than 5ft5!
with Pete Squires
pipof747 ??, 2002 Lead RP
Dave Musgrove Jnr 28 Aug, 2001 Lead O/S
Hidden ?Jul, 2001 Lead G/U
CrashMat Rob 12 Aug, 2000 TR
with Miles, Martin Whelan, MissNicky
with Miles, Martin Whelan, MissNicky
CrashMat Rob 6 Nov, 1999 TR
CrashMat Rob 17 May, 1998 TR
sadams 15 Mar, 1998 Lead O/S
jfletcher 16 Jul, 1995 Lead
with Graham Parkes, Graham Baxter
with Graham Parkes, Graham Baxter
Hidden 12 Oct, 1991 Lead O/S
Hidden ??, 1980 Lead
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Voting
High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
Votes cast 21
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 22
Votes cast 18
Style of ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Ground Up
Repeated
Redpoint
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Not Set