18m.

Rockfax Description
Climb the crack up the left side of the pillar to reach the impressive chimney system. Tricky moves are then needed to enter the main fissure before following it with pleasure. © Rockfax

FA. Fred Pigott 1919

Ticklists: Stanage Routes BMC Graded List, 100 Stanage stars, Stanage 100 VD - VS, Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+, Peak Rock/3/ A Decade of Expansion, Chatsworth to Bamford, Stanage for Crack Apprentices, Stanage Chimney Tour.


ClimberDateStyle
jcdavy 16/Jul Lead O/S
with Emily Hird, Poland
Duncan Zerafa 08/Jul 2nd O/S

Meant to do Doctors Saunter, change of route!

with Pati Xariklia
Ben Bransby 14/Jun Solo
stevo smith 27/May Lead
with Chris B., Paul Alexander
Rafal Malczyk 08/Apr Lead O/S
quickdrawmcraw 28/Mar Lead
slab_happy 28/Mar 2nd
with Matt
Jonny Holmes 15/Nov/16 AltLd
Andy Moles 08/Oct/16 Solo
pingora 11/Sep/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 30/Aug/16 Lead
Sarah Statham 14/Aug/16 2nd β
with Mike
Constant Solo 14/Aug/16 Lead O/S
Turbo 06/Aug/16 2nd O/S
with Jack
Hidden 31/Jul/16 2nd
keitht 31/Jul/16 Solo
Stroppy 23/Jul/16 Solo O/S
Hidden 17/Jul/16 TR O/S
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing 06/Jul/16 Solo O/S
quack 01/Jul/16 -
with Simon
stevelismore 22/Jun/16 2nd
with James L
Mike Bayley 19/Jun/16 2nd O/S
with John Sellars & Cathy Burgess
Hidden 05/Jun/16 2nd β
1poundSOCKS 05/Jun/16 Lead O/S
adz_c 30/May/16 Lead O/S
Tim Harper 22/May/16 2nd O/S
with Jack Poyner
rd20 07/May/16 2nd O/S
with Tony Hall, Len
Markheighton 18/Mar/16 AltLd O/S
Mikethe boar 28/Feb/16 Lead
with Tom
waiting for snow 04/Oct/15 TR
cookie-doo 30/Sep/15 2nd O/S
rajeshwarbisht 27/Sep/15 Lead O/S
with Flavio
FlavioL1989 27/Sep/15 Solo O/S
Hidden 27/Sep/15 Lead O/S
DanChad 20/Sep/15 2nd O/S
Le Chevalier Mal Fet 20/Sep/15 Lead
MikeLell 22/Aug/15 Solo O/S
Hidden 02/Aug/15 2nd rpt
alex_3000 25/Jul/15 Lead O/S
leachy7 ?/Jul/15 Lead O/S
with anth12
mapperley samurai 27/Jun/15 Lead O/S
matthewspence 27/Jun/15 Lead O/S
with Jo
IainMay 18/Jun/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 18/Jun/15 2nd O/S
Tony Ryland 15/Jun/15 2nd
with Bob Akam, Andrew Heath
MikeDowsett 04/May/15 2nd
TonyF 04/May/15 Lead O/S
with Mike Dowsett
Hidden ??/2015 -
Canyak ??/2015 -
dan_o_b ??/2015 Lead O/S
markhaworth 05/Oct/14 Lead β
with Hannah Hughes
Lewis201 20/Sep/14 Lead O/S
sparkass 13/Sep/14 Solo rpt

100 IAD No. 9 - surprisingly awkward.

Hidden 10/Sep/14 Lead
Hidden 10/Sep/14 2nd
mountaingoatgirl 09/Aug/14 Solo
kiwi boy 09/Aug/14 2nd O/S

thruchy chimney in places. Crux from off the pedistal

with christine, Chris Hunt
stuart34 11/Jul/14 Solo O/S
Hidden 05/Jul/14 Lead
ben.phillips 22/Jun/14 2nd O/S
MichaelGallimore 22/Jun/14 2nd rpt

Done as part of the 100 stanage stars ticklist. 43 routes in 15 hours. Absolutely exhausting, far too hot, and midge hell, but what an achievement! We had great fun. Well done Ben and thanks!

with Ben Philips
john. e.r 18/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with dave
Hidden 01/Jun/14 2nd
chinkus303 31/May/14 2nd O/S
Alex Hallam 19/May/14 Solo O/S
Hidden 03/May/14 2nd
dhavenhand 30/Mar/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 14/Mar/14 2nd
buxtoncoffeelover 14/Mar/14 Lead
with Vicar
Dan Arkle ??/2014 -
MichaelGallimore 21/Dec/13 Lead O/S

Done as part of the first successful completion of the stanage winter challenge, in a time of 7hrs.

Goodstuff 21/Dec/13 2nd O/S

Route 2 of the Stanage Winter challenge. Nice route, and no nead for an anchor at the notch- the leader IS the anchor.

with Mike Gallimore
joemallia 03/Dec/13 2nd rpt
londonoring 16/Nov/13 Lead O/S

Ian seconded this one on a RVCMC trip. Was a pretty tough and awkward crack.

Hidden 27/Sep/13 Lead
cjb1992 27/Sep/13 2nd
with Harriet, June
Mike Soulby 31/Aug/13 2nd O/S
scott.hill 31/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Blisco 26/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with Oliver Cooper
Skullfire 20/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with Jun Minohara
knighty 14/Jul/13 2nd O/S
SuperLee1985 14/Jul/13 Lead β

Interesting climb but possibly not 3 star (atleast not the way I climbed it). some fun but not exactly elegant moves (at ome point both me and my partner did a two handed press which resulted in us sitting down ungracefully on the block that we had pushed up to). Gaining the chimney is definately the most interesting part, there seem to be numerous ways to do it, but none of the ones we found were 'elegant'. Also, this route claims quite a lot of skin.

with knighty
DinoGator 06/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with Tom GP
Hidden 08/Jun/13 2nd
AlexFletcher 08/Jun/13 Lead
sam26051 08/Jun/13 2nd
fechtn 08/Jun/13 Lead
with Pete
Becky E 02/Jun/13 2nd rpt
with Julian, Maia
Hidden 02/Jun/13 2nd O/S
Hidden 27/May/13 2nd O/S
Lilla Horvath 27/May/13 Lead O/S

nagyon szuper, első egyedül felállított anchor :)

with Will
Hidden 25/May/13 Lead O/S
mrchewy 25/May/13 Lead O/S
JonathanJones 06/May/13 Lead O/S
with Liam
LiamAD 06/May/13 2nd
jogh 28/Apr/13 Lead O/S
with Ricky
Jody Palmer 28/Apr/13 2nd O/S
Ricky Layf 28/Apr/13 2nd O/S
with James
Hidden 28/Apr/13 Lead O/S
AlanPedrick ??/2013 -
Hidden 03/Nov/12 2nd O/S
jwa 03/Nov/12 Lead
Hidden 19/Sep/12 2nd
colinw 07/Sep/12 Lead

good route... climbing in 3D, certainly "pleasant"

Howard J 14/Aug/12 2nd rpt

Did the right-hand start

with Vanessa Jackson
hotfeet 12/Aug/12 2nd
with Fraser Campbell, Mark MacDonald
Blue68 12/Aug/12 Lead O/S

Do like a good chimney, straight forward with plenty of gear, enjoyed.

with Fraser Campbell, Alan Mountford
deacondeacon 24/Jul/12 Solo O/S
Clee 22/Jul/12 2nd
with Matt
Hidden 22/Jul/12 Lead O/S
tjsx101 22/Jul/12 2nd O/S
with Chris Playfoot
will9911 22/Jul/12 2nd O/S
max_chan 05/Jul/12 Lead O/S

In the wet. Big block at the beginning moved but reading comments here it's been moving for years. Awfully spooky when it happened though.

with Trevor Wilson
franhammond92 13/Jun/12 Lead
sam26051 13/Jun/12 2nd
with franhammond92
pbuggy91 02/Jun/12 Lead O/S
Fragmod 02/Jun/12 2nd
Hidden 25/May/12 Solo O/S
Hidden 16/May/12 TR O/S
Hidden 16/May/12 TR
efrance24234 14/May/12 2nd O/S
Hidden 14/May/12 Lead O/S
Steve Swanborough 02/Apr/12 TR O/S
dannyevos 01/Apr/12 2nd O/S

Nice climb nice day nice to be out in the peaks. My thighs are to big for this climb!!!!

with Rick Clapham
lennym 01/Apr/12 2nd β
Lucy_Maddison 31/Mar/12 2nd
wilkie14c 23/Mar/12 2nd
with Dave Clarke
kfowler141 22/Mar/12 Lead
Hidden 15/Mar/12 Solo O/S
Hidden 12/Mar/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 12/Mar/12 Lead
Chris Ellis 10/Mar/12 Lead
with Helen Odwell
petekeron ?/Mar/12 Solo O/S
with Solo
matthew bower ??/2012 Lead
PAJames ??/2012 -
matthew bower ??/2012 -
JHiley 22/Oct/11 Lead O/S
pete1993 22/Oct/11 2nd
Hidden 22/Oct/11 Solo O/S
lithos 29/Sep/11 Lead
with carmen
Hidden 01/Sep/11 Solo O/S
Hidden ?/Sep/11 Lead O/S
Gumery ?/Sep/11 2nd
with Clint
Hidden 21/Aug/11 2nd
saxonzulu 19/Aug/11 2nd
Hidden 17/Aug/11 Lead
phleppy 17/Aug/11 2nd
jburrows99 13/Aug/11 2nd
tim.fairhall 31/Jul/11 2nd
with Hui
Blurgy319 30/Jul/11 2nd O/S

With the layback start for saunter

with Rimon Than
benjio 30/Jul/11 2nd O/S
Gary A S 19/Jul/11 Lead O/S
with Elly
Hidden 09/Jul/11 Solo O/S
duncana 03/Jul/11 Lead

Fantastic chimney!! Bit energetic low down, then nice 3D climbing higher up

with Pippa Archer
Hidden 11/Jun/11 Lead O/S
jasonC abroad 01/May/11 2nd

Bit of a struggle at the bottom but not too difficult

Hidden 25/Apr/11 Sent
t8t9t8 17/Apr/11 Lead
gaz_jones 16/Apr/11 Lead O/S

comical

jack89 16/Apr/11 2nd O/S

chimneys....

alimckay 09/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with Rob
Jack Whiteley 09/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with Izzy
Hidden ?/Apr/11 2nd O/S
Becky E 27/Mar/11 Lead O/S
Graeme Hammond 27/Mar/11 2nd rpt
with Becky E
Rachel Slater 23/Mar/11 Solo O/S
Chi Cheng 23/Mar/11 Solo rpt
highfivekrissy ?/Mar/11 2nd
with Andy Waring
uphillnow ??/2011 -
MPSBunny ??/2011 Lead

There was a massive puddle beneath this.

with Ben Llewellyn
ashtond6 ??/2011 Lead O/S
Chi Cheng 16/Nov/10 Lead O/S
with Ian Poxen
raptorheli 17/Oct/10 2nd
with terryb
nick ferro 05/Sep/10 -
Hidden 22/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Browny 22/Aug/10 2nd O/S
with Annette
Hidden 15/Aug/10 Solo O/S
Goody 10/Aug/10 Lead O/S

Climbed right side of pillar at start.

with Suzie Hughes
Howard J 10/Aug/10 2nd O/S

Via the right-hand layback start

with Richard Bonheyo
Hidden 25/Jul/10 TR O/S
oddessy_uk 25/Jul/10 Solo O/S

No way a S, way to easy

RobynB 25/Jul/10 2nd
Hidden 25/Jul/10 Lead O/S
frankcp87 25/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with Ian Holbrook
Hidden 17/Jun/10 Lead
Neil Rodgers (PCC) 17/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with Marilyn
spragglerocks 12/Jun/10 Lead O/S
Kate Webster ?/Jun/10 Lead
jayray 23/May/10 Lead O/S
Jimbo C 23/May/10 Lead O/S

Awkward getting out of the narrow bit at the top

with Alex, Mike
abreen 15/May/10 2nd O/S
riven 15/May/10 Lead O/S
with Alisdar Breen
khemus 15/May/10 2nd
Hidden 21/Apr/10 -
hang_about 10/Apr/10 2nd
Hidden ??/2010 Lead O/S
Ken Taylor ??/2010 -
Ron ??/2010 Lead
with Chris
Hidden 19/Dec/09 Solo O/S
Jim Slater 31/Oct/09 Lead O/S
with Rosa
Hidden 26/Sep/09 2nd
pebbles 13/Sep/09 2nd

walked 1k to reach surgeons saunter, on arrival found the thing to be radioactive green with algae so we did this instead. pleasant enough but hardly three stars

jadm2 13/Sep/09 2nd rpt
with Peri
theo.mooney ?/Jul/09 Solo
with Mary Moloney
Hidden 27/Jun/09 Lead O/S
andyebbens 30/May/09 Lead
with Paul
orge 10/May/09 2nd rpt

Climbed this yesterday with the Doctor' Saunter start. Was shocked when the top section of the starting block moved about an inch as I was pulling up/back on it! Seemed to stop because it caught on the arete. We considered recent seepage might have played a part. Given that it's a beginner's climb in a popular area and most people would not treat the block with suspicion, figured it was worth posting a note of caution.

Oliver Houston ?/May/09 Lead
jack89 ?/May/09 2nd O/S
with Oliver
jcurley 21/Apr/09 2nd O/S
with Chris Drinkwater
Hidden 15/Apr/09 Lead O/S
Pero 01/Apr/09 Lead
AJ007 18/Mar/09 Solo
keith leonard ??/2009 2nd
Hidden ??/2009 -
springything 23/Nov/08 2nd O/S
Mr. K 23/Nov/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 18/Oct/08 2nd
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 27/Sep/08 Solo O/S
Neil Henson 14/Sep/08 2nd

Headtorch ascent.

with Graham Robinson
tontopink 07/Sep/08 Lead O/S
boulderholder ?/Sep/08 Lead O/S
with Debbie Birch
Ugly Kid Jo 30/Aug/08 Lead
with Ruth
Hidden 12/Jul/08 Lead O/S
michael.carlyon ?/Jul/08 Lead O/S

Great fun once you get into the chimney!

with Sarah Heald
victim of mathematics 12/Jun/08 Lead O/S
with Annelies
feilx 11/Jun/08 Solo O/S
MichJ 07/Jun/08 -
alisonk ?/Jun/08 Lead O/S
with Alex
teflonpete ?/Jun/08 2nd β

With layback start of Doctor's saunter.

with Pete A
btc 11/May/08 Lead O/S
with ian lovatt
Hidden 10/May/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 10/May/08 2nd dog
Daxman ?/May/08 Lead O/S
with Rick Clapham
Pete Graham 13/Feb/08 Solo
Hidden ??/2008 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2008 -
daveagriff ??/2008 Lead
LP ??/2008 -
Hidden ??/2008 Lead O/S
Hidden 04/Nov/07 Lead
spbond 03/Nov/07 Lead O/S
with Jen Slowey
Pilch 20/Oct/07 2nd O/S
with Graham
Neil Pacey 06/Oct/07 2nd O/S
jugglingeek 09/Sep/07 2nd O/S

Tricky moves to get into the chimney. Unfortunatly the rest of the climbing is much easier than the Severe grade implies

with Adrian
Hidden 01/Sep/07 Lead β
jonnie3430 ?/Sep/07 Solo O/S
Hidden ?/Sep/07 2nd
doyle12 27/Aug/07 -
with Leon, Dad
Hidden 04/Aug/07 Lead O/S
Boe Jailey 01/Aug/07 -
Hidden 07/Jul/07 2nd O/S
Graeme Hammond 07/Jul/07 Solo O/S
Steve Waters, Mynydd 26/Jun/07 Lead O/S
with Jo Bowen
sparkass ?/Jun/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 21/Apr/07 2nd
Jim Vach 11/Apr/07 Solo O/S
Hidden 07/Apr/07 2nd
craig matheson ?/Apr/07 Solo
Hidden 14/Mar/07 2nd β
mshorter ??/2007 -
RM199 ??/2007 -
gibbo38 30/Jul/06 Lead
with Robert
just wanna climb 28/Jun/06 Lead O/S

Well worth doing, easy enough but with all kinds of gear. Did the VS start layback of Surgeon's, watch for the sliding triangle block at the first stance

with Robin
ChrisBrooke 10/Jun/06 Lead O/S
with Caroline Davison
Hidden 06/May/06 Solo O/S
tatz45 ?/Nov/05 Lead O/S
Alex Mason 11/Jul/05 Solo O/S

awkward to enter with good climbing through out

with pat et al
Hidden 01/Jul/05 Lead
Hidden ?/Jul/05 Lead
Reds 23/Apr/05 2nd O/S
with Ralph
Nicos 08/Apr/05 Solo O/S
with solo
rob wmc 19/Sep/04 Lead O/S
with Pete
Simon K 12/Sep/04 2nd

Not nice

with PR
Happy Wanderer 05/Sep/04 2nd O/S

Paul led.

with Lisa B, Paul H
John Eley ?/Jul/04 Lead O/S
tobydunford 10/Jun/04 2nd O/S
with Keith Hobbs, Lauren Brown
Graham T ?/Jun/04 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2004 Lead
dannyboy83 ?/Oct/03 Solo O/S
Simon Caldwell 07/Jun/03 Lead O/S
with Carmen
Hidden 27/Mar/03 Lead O/S
dan gibson ??/2003 Solo O/S
SteveM 22/Dec/02 Lead

After Tobs had backed off - really wet

with Tobs
Tobias at Home 22/Dec/02 Lead dnf

too cold/wet. who's idea was stanage end anyway?

with SteveM
Tobias at Home 22/Dec/02 2nd rpt
with SteveM
Mark Stevenson 03/May/02 Solo O/S
DerwentDiluted 23/Apr/02 Solo
Hidden 03/Mar/02 TR
Chalky Cat ??/2002 2nd O/S
with Dom Rich Sarah
Peakology ??/2002 Lead O/S
with cat
Roget 01/Jul/01 Solo O/S
colin milton ?/Jun/01 Lead
with eric milton and sean cavangh
Hidden 16/Feb/01 Lead
Rock Fairy ??/2000 Lead

Was Vdiff!

Hidden 21/Jun/98 2nd
Jim Brooke 14/Mar/98 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/Feb/98 Lead
Hidden 09/Jul/97 Solo O/S
Hidden 09/Jul/97 -
Hidden ?/Jun/97 Lead O/S
nigehughes ?/May/97 Lead
with Ian Hill
Paul-Michael 08/Sep/96 Lead O/S
with David Reading
craig h 10/Aug/96 Solo O/S
Hidden 09/Jun/96 Lead RP
EddieA 21/Oct/95 Solo O/S
Martin Bennett 09/Sep/95 Solo
atom 21/Jun/95 2nd
with Sheila Ellison
nigehughes ?/Jun/95 Lead
with John Smith
barney@helmshore 13/May/95 Lead O/S
with mark b
Hidden 12/Jun/94 2nd
Hidden 15/May/92 Solo O/S
The Pulsing Motorik of Neu! 23/Aug/91 Solo O/S
Hidden 11/Jul/90 Lead
NickJH ?/Jul/90 Solo
Hidden 09/Jun/90 Solo
BRUCESTRAC ??/1990 -
with Chris Cracknell,Various
steve prior ?/Sep/89 Solo
Iain Thow 25/Jun/88 Solo
Andy Say 23/May/87 Solo
Hidden 28/Jun/86 Lead
Hidden ??/1986 -
mark-abz 16/Nov/84 TR
John Marsland 10/Oct/84 Solo
Dave Musgrove 28/Aug/83 -
tapley 08/Jul/83 Solo
charlesmfrench 07/Nov/82 Solo O/S
Pete Pozman ?/Nov/82 TR
with Mike Allen, Garry Rushworth
andy tetsill ?/Aug/82 Solo
Hidden ?/May/82 2nd
rogerskews ??/1976 -
Nigel Bond 11/Oct/75 Solo
MikeDowsett ??/1975 Lead
johnwright 21/May/72 2nd
with P Calem
mikej 30/May/70 Solo
with Dave Williams, E
Hidden 13/Mar/65 Lead
Hidden 18/Oct/64 2nd
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Voting
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
High S
Mid S
Low S
High HVD
Mid HVD
Low HVD
Votes cast 51
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
High 3c
Mid 3c
Low 3c
Votes cast 50
Votes cast 47
Style of ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Bouldered
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
DNF
Dogged
Redpoint
Not Set