Rockfax Description
From Inaccessible Crack, step left above the roof and climb to the break. Finish up the precarious right-trending scoop. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Typically delightful slab climbing that is only E4 if you contrive to ignore the runners that are 18" left of the starting handholds on the crux wall. Fun rockovers lead up this to finish.

FA. Steve Bancroft 1984

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Stanage Routes BMC Graded List.

Felix la shat 22/Sep Lead O/S
with Dad
robert-hutton 10/Aug -
Ben Bransby 07/Jun Solo

rope solo

Wayne S 10/May 2nd

E4 in Stanage Definitive Guide

with Coel
Coel Hellier 10/May Lead
Alex Eperon 29/Dec/16 TR
with Felicity Eperon
MarkRoe 29/Dec/16 Lead β

Climbed on Alex's gear after his lead. Clipped gear in the crack before the scoop as it would have felt stupid not too. I recon E2 with the runner. Good fun.

Hidden 02/Nov/16 2nd
Gambit 01/Sep/16 Lead β

Had plenty of beta and used the runners in the crack as they looked on route to me. Moves felt OK on a warm early September day

Hidden 01/Aug/16 2nd
Andrew Barker 01/Aug/16 Lead O/S


with Chris M
will rivers 07/Jul/16 2nd
Tom Pillow 07/Jul/16 Lead O/S

scary this one! bit of dithering at the top thinking i was about to fall then topped out. Just stand up! ;)

with Will Rivers
sparkass 16/May/15 Lead O/S

Not a good warm up, huge run out, harrowing!

with Rob Lovatt
JEP 26/Apr/15 2nd O/S
cem 28/Oct/14 2nd

A good one to second: relatively straightforward climbing but very bold.

Gudge 28/Oct/14 Lead β

Better conditions today. No side runners - final ones (good cams) in obvious horizontal break. Took me a while to commit to crux but went fine once I did - what's new eh?!

Gudge 17/Oct/14 Lead dnf

Backed off as top slab moist - finished up Inaccessible Crack.

rurp 02/Sep/14 TR O/S

Artificial silly start. Top scoop nice

Hidden 04/Aug/14 -
WillDoyle 18/Apr/14 Lead O/S
Albachoss ??/2014 TR β
with Andrea
Dan Arkle ??/2014 -
hirving 08/Dec/13 TR dog

very windy. had to pull on rope when fell to get to get back to position.

with Gilsey
Hidden 08/Dec/13 TR
JRae 17/Oct/12 2nd
with Liam P
Hidden 17/Oct/12 Lead O/S
Kim M 26/Aug/12 2nd O/S
with Nige
Chris Craggs 08/Aug/12 TR

Never led this, now I know why.

with Steve Cunnington, Graham Parkes
Somerset swede basher 12/May/12 Lead O/S
with Rob
pudding 01/May/11 Lead O/S

had to tighten my boots mid route to do the crux! definatley only E3

with john phethean
Hidden 02/Oct/10 Lead RP
hamish2016 26/Sep/10 Lead O/S
with chris burn
Hidden 12/Sep/10 2nd O/S
Hidden 12/Sep/10 2nd dog
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 03/Jul/10 Lead rpt
with Slim
Rowansb 28/May/10 Lead O/S

pretty easy for E4, really enjoyable climbing

with Ewan
Pete Graham 13/Oct/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 13/Oct/09 2nd O/S
Brown 19/Aug/09 Lead rpt

Previously 2nded jul 2008

with James T
Hidden 08/Jul/09 -
Hidden ?/Jun/09 TR O/S
Hidden 10/May/09 2nd
Hidden ?/May/09 TR dog
w.pettet-smith ?/Mar/09 Lead dnf

took a big whipper from the top after going too far right for beauticien but too far left for impossible slab. dawdled and slipped. ended up aboy a metre off the deck. scary stuff!

with sporty simon
tuftynick ?/Jan/09 Lead O/S
with sam chin
Luke Brooks 30/Nov/08 Lead O/S

With a side runner on the left.

The old James turnbull ??/2008 Lead
The old James turnbull ??/2008 Lead
The old James turnbull ??/2008 Lead
Hidden 27/Aug/07 Lead O/S
Joe Dove 09/May/07 TR
with kev
Hidden 02/Jun/06 TR
UndercoverElephant ??/2006 Lead O/S

Obvious choice after impossible slab, just a shade trickier.

with S
fizzy_elephant 09/Nov/05 2nd
with stu
dannyboy83 ?/Oct/05 2nd O/S
Si dH 04/Jun/05 2nd O/S
with Dave Westlake
Ropeboy 03/Nov/03 Lead
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 31/Mar/03 2nd O/S
Hidden 17/Sep/00 Lead O/S
Jon Read ?/Aug/99 Lead O/S
Hidden 20/Jun/99 Lead O/S
Roget 13/Oct/96 Lead O/S

With a runer on the left.

with jon
cragspud ?/Oct/96 2nd O/S
Hidden 02/May/94 TR
Hidden 02/Sep/93 Lead rpt
Hidden 15/Aug/93 Lead
Hidden 13/Aug/93 TR
Rich Kirby ??/1993 Lead O/S
Rob Davies ?/Sep/91 TR
Hidden 21/Aug/91 Lead
Hidden 04/Jul/91 2nd β
Hidden 31/Jul/90 TR
goi.ashmore 20/Mar/88 Lead O/S

Nothing like E4. Easy E3 tops.

with Dave Forster
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High E4
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Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
Votes cast 30
High 6a
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High 5c
Mid 5c
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High 5b
Mid 5b
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Votes cast 28
Votes cast 28
Style of ascent
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Flashed (β)
Not Set