Rockfax Description
Bridge the shallow scoop up to the overhang, and reach over for a good hold. Then flick into the crucial mantelshelf, though the tall will probably just topple over backwards. © Rockfax

FA. Al Parker 1978

Ticklists: Stanage Routes BMC Graded List.

mikespooner 15/Oct/17 Lead RP

First clean E3, gear up to the crux pre-placed. Not the best style due to the team siege tactics employed, but happy to get it done after a lot of perseverance!

thel33ter 15/Oct/17 Lead dnf

Only really gave the crux one good go, felt like it might happen but today wasn't the day/

with Carl
Carl 15/Oct/17 Lead dnf

Fell three times. Got furthest with a deadpoint to the sloper (bit gritty though!), but tipped over backwards (can I blame my height for this?!) after getting my foot up. Definitely one to come back to fresh...

with Otto, Damon, Princess
suddy 15/Oct/17 Lead dnf
Ellis Bird ??/2017 Lead O/S
Retro Rowan 22/Oct/16 2nd dnf

climbed the groove - exited left under the mantle

David Kay 24/Apr/16 Lead dnf
with Richard Waltham
marcduhig 17/Apr/16 Lead dnf
bigdrew 10/Apr/16 Lead O/S

Down climbed from this ages ago. Not too hard lanking it!

with Cam, Eve
theotherpetehill 09/Aug/15 Lead dnf

Fail. Adam committed much better to it and took a whipper into the groove. He went up the easy way left and belayed and I scraped up it on top-rope with a bit of resting and messing about...

with Adam Brown
adam 24 09/Aug/15 Lead dnf

Mantel is utterly nails

DanOsb 25/May/15 Lead dnf


with Ed
mrteale 21/May/15 Lead dnf
phildawson 04/May/15 Lead dnf

Pretty steady to the jug but by the time i'd hung around figuring out the foot beta to get the the lip i was to tired to actually manage the move. Close though, it'll go next time!

with Stefanie P?hlmann
Rachel Slater 04/May/15 2nd β
tim newton 04/May/15 Lead rpt

Tried it a couple of years ago with some falls before giving up. First go today

Canyak ??/2015 -
Matt Cooke 30/Nov/14 Lead O/S
with Rosh
dom94 09/Nov/14 Lead RP

2nd go

Matt Groom 09/Nov/14 Lead
Hannes B 09/Nov/14 Lead O/S
with Krissy, Sasha
benkelsey 18/Oct/14 Lead dnf

sacked off after the mantle. couldn't let the go of the jug to reach the ledge.

Hidden 18/Oct/14 Lead dnf
BenL 11/Oct/14 2nd O/S
with SUMC
dswansonlow 11/Oct/14 Lead dnf
dannyboy83 11/Oct/14 Lead O/S

Good move and not too bad for shorties

Hidden 29/Mar/14 2nd dog
ASchwirtz 29/Mar/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Aug/13 Lead dnf
lukehodson 26/May/13 Lead dnf
Neil Amos 04/May/13 Lead β
Neil Amos 04/May/13 Lead β
w.pettet-smith ?/Oct/12 Lead

went for the dead point to slopers and hold on tight method rather than pissing around with a grizzly mantle

with claire jane carter
freemanTom 22/Sep/12 2nd dnf

Kyle did not finish either. Reachy but fun looking.

with Kyle Rance, Ben
belay bunny turned bad 04/Sep/12 TR
with loundsy
Hidden 04/Sep/12 2nd
Simon_Letman 05/May/12 Lead RP

Ground up. Took some big falls

with olly
Apharri ?/Feb/12 Lead β
fp219 ?/Jan/12 2nd
Hidden 29/Oct/11 TR RP
Hidden 29/Oct/11 TR
Joey C 23/Oct/11 TR dog

Mega pull up on slopers! some nice moves :)

Hidden 15/Oct/11 Lead O/S
Lilifa 24/Sep/11 Lead O/S
ChrisBrooke 14/Aug/11 Lead dnf
with Keeley Scholes
Fran S8 10/Jul/11 2nd
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 10/Jul/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/Jun/11 Lead dnf
Exodus 30/Apr/11 Lead dnf

Hand came so close, but I don't think I ever fully comitted.Reversed several times. Next time

with Steve A
Dave Musgrove Jnr 25/Apr/11 Lead O/S


with Dad
mark20 06/Apr/11 Lead RP

Took a couple of falls trying to slap up. Got it first go with the mantle.

Ben1983 03/Apr/11 Lead dnf
tim newton 20/Mar/11 Lead dnf

took a couple of falls from the crux before giving up. plenty of pro below

John Lewis 20/Mar/11 2nd dog
with Tim
Hidden 30/Sep/10 Lead
SteveM 30/Sep/10 2nd dog
with Alex
hamish2016 26/Sep/10 Lead dnf
with chris burn
Hidden 06/Sep/10 Lead dnf
Hidden 04/Sep/10 Lead dnf
FlorianCastagne 23/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 22/Aug/10 TR dog
Hidden 31/Jul/10 Lead
Stephen Horne - Rockfax 06/Jul/10 Lead G/U
Tim M 26/Jun/10 Lead dnf
chris sm 26/Jun/10 2nd
rubben 30/May/10 Lead dnf

Led to roof, placed two larger cams, which were superficila really as would not have held. Then placed two aliens, which seemed pretty good...went over roof and got the good hold, but didn't feel confident enough in my gear this early in my trad climbing history (7th lead ever), reversed, and went up easy hvs to to go back for and just do!

Hidden 30/May/10 2nd dnf
Tez29 16/May/10 Lead β

Retro flash, stiff pull.

with Mousey
Hidden 09/May/10 Lead β
mark20 11/Apr/10 Lead dnf

Still can't do the crux, fell like a sack of spuds and cut myself up a bit

Hidden 09/Apr/10 2nd
Ben Vieyra ??/2010 2nd
JPGR ?/Nov/09 -
Hidden 17/Oct/09 Lead
mark20 17/Oct/09 2nd dnf

Finished out right

Hidden 10/Oct/09 TR O/S
natalietanzer 09/Oct/09 2nd
Andrew Barker 07/Sep/09 Lead

Fell off the mantel a couple of years ago, got it first try today. It's a very cool move.

with John Barker
RCrockford 05/Sep/09 2nd
with Mark D
Diggler 05/Sep/09 Lead dnf

Almost had it fingers millimeters from safety then slipped from the mantle. Result bruised knee and swollen foot from collision with ledge. Next time!!!!

LoopyLou 23/Aug/09 Lead dnf

Tough groove getting to the ledge, gear ok on the ledge but not guaranteed to protect a ground fall if get beyond the mantle move and fall at/just below the next break/gear. Pumpy hanging around on ledge working out how best to get onto the mantle hold. Once there, foot options not as obvious / nice as you'd like. Deviously difficult and powerful move needed to get into the mantle move itself and upward. Tried (90% effort, 10% held back due to fear of fall)! Managed to retreat back to ledge without falling onto gear and finished up the Severe.

with Thea Williams
Billg 09/Aug/09 Lead O/S
with Megan Beaumont
Hidden 27/Jun/09 Lead dnf
chris sm 14/Jun/09 2nd RP

Took a couple of goes!

with Pippa Froggatt
Toby Dunn ?/Aug/08 Lead

failed on many years ago (2000?)

with Tom Randall
Strong Steve 28/Jun/08 Lead G/U
craig d ?/Jun/08 Lead O/S
with Simon Kincaid
Nicos 18/May/08 Lead dnf
Hidden 12/May/08 TR dnf
sasmojo 26/Apr/08 Lead dnf

Failed after 3 falls, need to get back on this. Awesome route.

with Kev Billings
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe 26/Apr/08 Lead O/S
with Dave Ferguson
Ben Bransby ?/Nov/07 Lead
ukb & bmc shark 22/Jul/07 Lead

Got it first time. Failed on previously.

with Mark Hundleby
dan gibson 16/Jun/07 Lead O/S
UndercoverElephant ?/May/07 Lead O/S

Now that's a move and a half - so tentative you could go either way, luckily I chose up and was rewarded with a handful of dirty sloper. Makes those bouldering sessions worthwhile.

with unseconded
ukb & bmc shark 04/Feb/07 Lead dnf
Hidden 03/Feb/07 2nd dnf
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
Daniel Wrightson 01/Jul/06 Lead dnf
with Olivia Horner
Hidden ??/2006 -
Hidden 19/Nov/05 Lead O/S
Dave Bond 19/Oct/03 Lead
with Rich Hatton
DubyaJamesDubya 08/Jun/03 Lead O/S

Very pleased to lead this clean especially as it has a reputation for being hard for the tall and Colin said he'd seen 4-5 people try it but none succeed, found it fine at the grade.

with Trevor Stevens, Colin Brearley
lx ?/Oct/01 Lead
Hidden 20/Aug/01 Lead
tuftynick ??/2001 Lead
Paul Clarke ??/2000 Lead
with Unsure
Hidden ??/2000 Lead RP
sadams ?/May/99 Lead
Rich Kirby 20/Jun/98 Lead O/S
with Suzy
goi.ashmore 01/Nov/97 Lead β
with Alice Howe, Roy Thomas
SR1970 ?/Mar/97 Lead rpt
Roget 29/Oct/95 Lead O/S
with jon
Hidden 21/Jul/92 Lead β
mark-abz 21/May/90 TR
with Phil R
GordonHart ??/1985 TR O/S
with Kevin
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High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
Votes cast 28
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 28
Votes cast 24
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set