12m.

Rockfax Description
Bridge the shallow scoop up to the overhang, and reach over for a good hold. Then flick into the crucial mantelshelf, though the tall will probably just topple over backwards. © Rockfax

FA. Al Parker 1978

Ticklists

Stanage Routes BMC Graded List, Peaks hard stuff

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UserDateNotes
teddy 27 Oct, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Mantleshelf would prob b easier but I did it via a rockover onto the lower part of the hold with right foot and lock up to slopers with the RH and then match...tenous!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Mantleshelf would prob b easier but I did it via a rockover onto the lower part of the hold with right foot and lock up to slopers with the RH and then match...tenous!
Garan 7 Jun, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Commit to the mantle 100 percent and it's a piece of duff!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Commit to the mantle 100 percent and it's a piece of duff!
John Gillott 3 Mar, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: You spoilsport Nige M. You're right of course (and I know someone 5'6" who's done it the way you suggest), but people come to no harm following the guidebook method!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: You spoilsport Nige M. You're right of course (and I know someone 5'6" who's done it the way you suggest), but people come to no harm following the guidebook method!
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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
NinaR 7 Aug 2nd dnf Didn't even reach mantel hold
with Krzysztof Czechowicz
Didn't even reach mantel hold
with Krzysztof Czechowicz
Jack jk 6 Jul Lead G/U Good route. Shame to lose the onsight to a foot popping. It's deffinitely safe for anyone wondering about getting on it.
with ewanthomson, shaun McCance
Good route. Shame to lose the onsight to a foot popping. It's deffinitely safe for anyone wondering about getting on it.
with ewanthomson, shaun McCance
Mike505 6 Jul Lead dnf Just not enough oomph left after Quietus.
Just not enough oomph left after Quietus.
spidermonkey09 12 May Lead O/S E2 6a probably. One move, but a great move!
with Jack93
E2 6a probably. One move, but a great move!
with Jack93
Jack93 12 May 2nd dog
Ben_Gilbert96 14 Apr Lead dnf
td72 20 Oct, 2018 Lead O/S
with bryan61
with bryan61
bryan61 20 Oct, 2018 2nd dog
with td72
with td72
Hidden 9 Jun, 2018 Lead dnf
Hidden 9 Jun, 2018 Lead dnf
mikespooner 15 Oct, 2017 Lead RP First clean E3, gear up to the crux pre-placed. Not the best style due to the team siege tactics employed, but happy to get it done after a lot of perseverance!
with suddy, Otto Scott, Robrossmills, Carl, Stroppy, RKirke
First clean E3, gear up to the crux pre-placed. Not the best style due to the team siege tactics employed, but happy to get it done after a lot of perseverance!
with suddy, Otto Scott, Robrossmills, Carl, Stroppy, RKirke
thel33ter 15 Oct, 2017 Lead dnf Only really gave the crux one good go, felt like it might happen but today wasn't the day/
with Carl
Only really gave the crux one good go, felt like it might happen but today wasn't the day/
with Carl
Carl 15 Oct, 2017 Lead dnf Fell three times. Got furthest with a deadpoint to the sloper (bit gritty though!), but tipped over backwards (can I blame my height for this?!) after getting my foot up. Definitely one to come back to fresh...
with Otto, thel33ter, Robs_Uren
Fell three times. Got furthest with a deadpoint to the sloper (bit gritty though!), but tipped over backwards (can I blame my height for this?!) after getting my foot up. Definitely one to come back to fresh...
with Otto, thel33ter, Robs_Uren
suddy 15 Oct, 2017 Lead dnf
Ellis Bird ??, 2017 Lead O/S
Retro Rowan 22 Oct, 2016 2nd dnf climbed the groove - exited left under the mantle
climbed the groove - exited left under the mantle
David Kay 24 Apr, 2016 Lead dnf
with Richard Waltham
with Richard Waltham
marcduhig 17 Apr, 2016 Lead dnf
with chancer
with chancer
eel 10 Apr, 2016 2nd
with bigdrew
with bigdrew
bigdrew 10 Apr, 2016 Lead O/S Down climbed from this ages ago. Not too hard lanking it!
Down climbed from this ages ago. Not too hard lanking it!
theotherpetehill 9 Aug, 2015 Lead dnf Fail. Adam committed much better to it and took a whipper into the groove. He went up the easy way left and belayed and I scraped up it on top-rope with a bit of resting and messing about...
with Adam Brown
Fail. Adam committed much better to it and took a whipper into the groove. He went up the easy way left and belayed and I scraped up it on top-rope with a bit of resting and messing about...
with Adam Brown
adam 24 9 Aug, 2015 Lead dnf Mantel is utterly nails
Mantel is utterly nails
DanOsb 25 May, 2015 Lead dnf 'ard.
with mrteale
'ard.
with mrteale
mrteale 21 May, 2015 Lead dnf
phildawson 4 May, 2015 Lead dnf Pretty steady to the jug but by the time i'd hung around figuring out the foot beta to get the the lip i was to tired to actually manage the move. Close though, it'll go next time!
with Stefanie P?hlmann
Pretty steady to the jug but by the time i'd hung around figuring out the foot beta to get the the lip i was to tired to actually manage the move. Close though, it'll go next time!
with Stefanie P?hlmann
Rachel Slater 4 May, 2015 2nd β
tim newton 4 May, 2015 Lead rpt Tried it a couple of years ago with some falls before giving up. First go today
Tried it a couple of years ago with some falls before giving up. First go today
Canyak ??, 2015 -
Matt Cooke 30 Nov, 2014 Lead O/S
dom94 9 Nov, 2014 Lead RP 2nd go
2nd go
Matt Groom 9 Nov, 2014 Lead
Hannes B 9 Nov, 2014 Lead O/S
with Krissy, Sasha
with Krissy, Sasha
benkelsey 18 Oct, 2014 Lead dnf sacked off after the mantle. couldn't let the go of the jug to reach the ledge.
sacked off after the mantle. couldn't let the go of the jug to reach the ledge.
Hidden 18 Oct, 2014 Lead dnf
BenL 11 Oct, 2014 2nd O/S
with SUMC
with SUMC
dswansonlow 11 Oct, 2014 Lead dnf
dannyboy83 11 Oct, 2014 Lead O/S Good move and not too bad for shorties
with BenL, RKirke
Good move and not too bad for shorties
with BenL, RKirke
Hidden 29 Mar, 2014 2nd dog
ASchwirtz 29 Mar, 2014 Lead O/S
Hidden 11 Aug, 2013 Lead dnf
lukehodson 26 May, 2013 Lead dnf
Neil Amos 4 May, 2013 Lead β
Neil Amos 4 May, 2013 Lead β
w.pettet-smith ?Oct, 2012 Lead went for the dead point to slopers and hold on tight method rather than pissing around with a grizzly mantle
with claire jane carter
went for the dead point to slopers and hold on tight method rather than pissing around with a grizzly mantle
with claire jane carter
freemanTom 22 Sep, 2012 2nd dnf Kyle did not finish either. Reachy but fun looking.
with Kyle Rance, Ben
Kyle did not finish either. Reachy but fun looking.
with Kyle Rance, Ben
belay bunny turned bad 4 Sep, 2012 TR
with loundsy
with loundsy
Hidden 4 Sep, 2012 2nd
Simon_Letman 5 May, 2012 Lead RP Ground up. Took some big falls
with olly
Ground up. Took some big falls
with olly
Apharri ?Feb, 2012 Lead β
fp219 ?Jan, 2012 2nd
Hidden 29 Oct, 2011 TR RP
Hidden 29 Oct, 2011 TR
Joey C 23 Oct, 2011 TR dog Mega pull up on slopers! some nice moves :)
Mega pull up on slopers! some nice moves :)
Hidden 15 Oct, 2011 Lead O/S
Lilifa 24 Sep, 2011 Lead O/S
ChrisBrooke 14 Aug, 2011 Lead dnf
with Keeley Scholes
with Keeley Scholes
Fran S8 10 Jul, 2011 2nd
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 10 Jul, 2011 Lead O/S
Hidden 1 Jun, 2011 Lead dnf
Exodus 30 Apr, 2011 Lead dnf Hand came so close, but I don't think I ever fully comitted.Reversed several times. Next time
with Steve A
Hand came so close, but I don't think I ever fully comitted.Reversed several times. Next time
with Steve A
Dave Musgrove Jnr 25 Apr, 2011 Lead O/S blimey!
blimey!
mark20 6 Apr, 2011 Lead RP Took a couple of falls trying to slap up. Got it first go with the mantle.
Took a couple of falls trying to slap up. Got it first go with the mantle.
Ben1983 3 Apr, 2011 Lead dnf
tim newton 20 Mar, 2011 Lead dnf took a couple of falls from the crux before giving up. plenty of pro below
with Barra
took a couple of falls from the crux before giving up. plenty of pro below
with Barra
John Lewis 20 Mar, 2011 2nd dog
with Tim
with Tim
Hidden 30 Sep, 2010 Lead
SteveM 30 Sep, 2010 2nd dog
with campag
with campag
hamish2016 26 Sep, 2010 Lead dnf
with chris burn
with chris burn
Hidden 6 Sep, 2010 Lead dnf
Hidden 4 Sep, 2010 Lead dnf
FlorianCastagne 23 Aug, 2010 Lead O/S
Hidden 22 Aug, 2010 TR dog
Hidden 31 Jul, 2010 Lead
Stephen Horne - Rockfax 6 Jul, 2010 Lead G/U
Tim M 26 Jun, 2010 Lead dnf
chris sm 26 Jun, 2010 2nd
with Tim M
with Tim M
rubben 30 May, 2010 Lead dnf Led to roof, placed two larger cams, which were superficila really as would not have held. Then placed two aliens, which seemed pretty good...went over roof and got the good hold, but didn't feel confident enough in my gear this early in my trad climbing history (7th lead ever)...so, reversed, and went up easy hvs to left...one to go back for and just do!
Led to roof, placed two larger cams, which were superficila really as would not have held. Then placed two aliens, which seemed pretty good...went over roof and got the good hold, but didn't feel confident enough in my gear this early in my trad climbing history (7th lead ever)...so, reversed, and went up easy hvs to left...one to go back for and just do!
Hidden 30 May, 2010 2nd dnf
Tez29 16 May, 2010 Lead β Retro flash, stiff pull.
Retro flash, stiff pull.
Hidden 9 May, 2010 Lead β
mark20 11 Apr, 2010 Lead dnf Still can't do the crux, fell like a sack of spuds and cut myself up a bit
Still can't do the crux, fell like a sack of spuds and cut myself up a bit
Hidden 9 Apr, 2010 2nd
Ben Vieyra ??, 2010 2nd
JPGR ?Nov, 2009 -
Hidden 17 Oct, 2009 Lead
mark20 17 Oct, 2009 2nd dnf Finished out right
Finished out right
Hidden 10 Oct, 2009 TR O/S
natalietanzer 9 Oct, 2009 2nd
Hidden 27 Sep, 2009 TR
Andrew Barker 7 Sep, 2009 Lead Fell off the mantel a couple of years ago, got it first try today. It's a very cool move.
with John Barker
Fell off the mantel a couple of years ago, got it first try today. It's a very cool move.
with John Barker
RCrockford 5 Sep, 2009 2nd
with Diggler
with Diggler
Diggler 5 Sep, 2009 Lead dnf Almost had it fingers millimeters from safety then slipped from the mantle. Result bruised knee and swollen foot from collision with ledge. Next time!!!!
Almost had it fingers millimeters from safety then slipped from the mantle. Result bruised knee and swollen foot from collision with ledge. Next time!!!!
LoopyLou 23 Aug, 2009 Lead dnf Tough groove getting to the ledge, gear ok on the ledge but not guaranteed to protect a ground fall if get beyond the mantle move and fall at/just below the next break/gear. Pumpy hanging around on ledge working out how best to get onto the mantle hold. Once there, foot options not as obvious / nice as you'd like. Deviously difficult and powerful move needed to get into the mantle move itself and upward. Tried (90% effort, 10% held back due to fear of fall)! Managed to retreat back to ledge without falling onto gear and finished up the Severe.
with Thea Williams
Tough groove getting to the ledge, gear ok on the ledge but not guaranteed to protect a ground fall if get beyond the mantle move and fall at/just below the next break/gear. Pumpy hanging around on ledge working out how best to get onto the mantle hold. Once there, foot options not as obvious / nice as you'd like. Deviously difficult and powerful move needed to get into the mantle move itself and upward. Tried (90% effort, 10% held back due to fear of fall)! Managed to retreat back to ledge without falling onto gear and finished up the Severe.
with Thea Williams
Billg 9 Aug, 2009 Lead O/S
with Megan Beaumont
with Megan Beaumont
Hidden 27 Jun, 2009 Lead dnf
chris sm 14 Jun, 2009 2nd RP Took a couple of goes!
with Pippa Froggatt
Took a couple of goes!
with Pippa Froggatt
Toby Dunn ?Aug, 2008 Lead failed on many years ago (2000?)
with Tom Randall
failed on many years ago (2000?)
with Tom Randall
Strong Steve 28 Jun, 2008 Lead G/U
craig d ?Jun, 2008 Lead O/S
with Simon Kincaid
with Simon Kincaid
Hidden 12 May, 2008 TR dnf
sasmojo 26 Apr, 2008 Lead dnf Failed after 3 falls, need to get back on this. Awesome route.
with Kev Billings
Failed after 3 falls, need to get back on this. Awesome route.
with Kev Billings
Tom Briggs 26 Apr, 2008 Lead O/S
with Dave Ferguson
with Dave Ferguson
Ben Bransby ?Nov, 2007 Lead
UKB Shark 22 Jul, 2007 Lead Got it first time. Failed on previously.
with Mark Hundleby
Got it first time. Failed on previously.
with Mark Hundleby
dan gibson 16 Jun, 2007 Lead O/S
UndercoverElephant ?May, 2007 Lead O/S Now that's a move and a half - so tentative you could go either way, luckily I chose up and was rewarded with a handful of dirty sloper. Makes those bouldering sessions worthwhile.
with unseconded
Now that's a move and a half - so tentative you could go either way, luckily I chose up and was rewarded with a handful of dirty sloper. Makes those bouldering sessions worthwhile.
with unseconded
UKB Shark 4 Feb, 2007 Lead dnf
Hidden 3 Feb, 2007 2nd dnf
Rob Kennard ??, 2007 -
Daniel Wrightson 1 Jul, 2006 Lead dnf
with Olivia Horner
with Olivia Horner
Hidden ??, 2006 -
Hidden 19 Nov, 2005 Lead O/S
Dave Bond 19 Oct, 2003 Lead
with Rich Hatton
with Rich Hatton
DubyaJamesDubya 8 Jun, 2003 Lead O/S Very pleased to lead this clean especially as it has a reputation for being hard for the tall and Colin said he'd seen 4-5 people try it but none succeed, found it fine at the grade.
with Trevor Stevens, Colin Brearley
Very pleased to lead this clean especially as it has a reputation for being hard for the tall and Colin said he'd seen 4-5 people try it but none succeed, found it fine at the grade.
with Trevor Stevens, Colin Brearley
lx ?Oct, 2001 Lead
Hidden 20 Aug, 2001 Lead
tuftynick ??, 2001 Lead
David Slater ?Nov, 2000 Lead
with Banbury MC
with Banbury MC
Hidden ??, 2000 Lead
gavjwp ??, 2000 Lead RP
sadams ?May, 1999 Lead
Hidden 20 Jun, 1998 Lead O/S
goi.ashmore 1 Nov, 1997 Lead β
with Alice Howe, Roy Thomas
with Alice Howe, Roy Thomas
SR1970 ?Mar, 1997 Lead rpt
Roget 29 Oct, 1995 Lead O/S
with jon
with jon
Hidden 21 Jul, 1992 Lead β
mark-abz 21 May, 1990 TR
with Phill R
with Phill R
GordonHart ??, 1985 TR O/S
with Kevin
with Kevin
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Voting
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
Votes cast 30
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 30
Votes cast 25
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
DNF
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Dogged
Ground Up
Repeated
Not Set