Rockfax Description
A fine piece of roof climbing. Head through the stacked roof to a good hold where a massive lock-off or a short leap is needed to reach the break under the roof. The crux of The Tippler remains. © Rockfax

FA. Jim Reading 1976

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Stanage Routes BMC Graded List, Hardish grit routes that have good gear but aren't staminafests, Ron Fawcetts 100 extremes in a day, James' Winter Grit ticklist, 3 Star Stanage, Definitive *** Peak Grit.

beni 19/Nov/17 Lead
Joshua Robertson 05/Nov/17 Lead
Joshua Robertson 05/Nov/17 Lead
Tom McCabe 29/Oct/17 Lead dog

Got straight through the crux with some excellent beta from Dan, but then fell off the crux of Tippler when I was too pumped to read it properly. Rested and carried on to the top.

with Rowan Chesmer
Rob Knowles 29/Oct/17 Lead G/U

Sieged the route with Dan and beta from Joe. Barely managed the crux

DanChad 29/Oct/17 2nd dog

After several attempts and falls from each of us, Rob eventually sent the route.

Hidden 08/Oct/17 Lead RP
Owen Diba 08/Oct/17 Lead dnf

Too tired to make the leap. Got it clean later on top rope with different beta.

Barrie Schofield II 18/Sep/17 Lead G/U

Cam in place below crux from previous attempt

Toby 01/Sep/17 Lead G/U

First go after doing the tippler, the gear was still in from that.

with Jack, Nate
Granitemuncher 13/Aug/17 Lead rpt

too far for a lock off, had to Dyno it. very safe climbing

with Matt Johnson
Matt Cooke 10/Aug/17 Lead rpt
with Sandy, Ben
Stephen Horne - Rockfax 30/Jul/17 Lead rpt
Katekeltie 30/Jul/17 2nd O/S
with Fatboy
Gus 30/Jul/17 Lead
Jemima Churchhouse 16/Jul/17 2nd dog
GwilymR 16/Jul/17 Lead O/S
with Jammy
Hidden 12/Jul/17 Lead RP
Hidden 06/Jul/17 Lead dnf
mrteale 06/Jul/17 2nd rpt

Tried Micky's left hand-jam cross over to sloper beta this time. Felt easier than using the crimp!

MSchobitz 06/Jul/17 Lead G/U

Finally... awesome, hard and well-protected climbing. Cheers for the belay Ed!

sparkass 24/Jun/17 Lead G/U
with Rob Lovatt
charleybaby5287 03/Jun/17 2nd

Aided move.

robgixer 03/Jun/17 Lead rpt

repeat after trying a few years ago, progress.

with Charley
Hidden 28/May/17 Lead dnf
James Oswald 26/May/17 Lead RP

Failed on it with Rachel a few years ago. Almost fell off both cruxes this time too

with Alan saul
Harald 21/May/17 Lead dnf
Cole Robertson 14/May/17 Lead RP

Lowered to try the moves, make sure nothing was wet, and scope placements, then lead it first go, placing all the gear on lead. Feels good to get through the tippler crux!

GregClixby 07/May/17 2nd dnf
amccann 05/May/17 Lead O/S
with Tilly
matildascott111 05/May/17 2nd dnf
with amccann
Scott Quinn 01/May/17 Lead G/U

What a route! very hard at the grade

with Chris
tunnah 01/May/17 2nd
CMoore 01/May/17 Lead G/U

Brilliant! long long looooooonng reach (for a short arse). crux of the tippler doesn't let you fully relax!

WB 23/Apr/17 Lead G/U

third time a charm. i must have missed a trick because it felt like a loooong reach

with Guy
benkelsey 22/Apr/17 Lead G/U

Tried dodgy beta to get the flattie out left. (My thumb was under the cam stem when I fell off - agony.) Pulled back on with much better beta, then did the long reach static. Put some gear in the tippler and jumped off. Pulled the ropes and did it second go, also static. The tippler crux was not pretty.

pete1993 22/Apr/17 2nd O/S

Should have gone for the lead, felt easy......idiot

mrteale 22/Apr/17 Lead β

Belayed Ben who worked out the moves/ placed gear and then lowered. Lead with his gear in place which greatly aided the flash!

Mike505 08/Apr/17 Lead dnf

Took a whipper after the crux and hit my belayer. Pulled the ropes and abbed for the gear, it will go clean when I'm a little fresher and once the bruises and whiplash have settled down a little.

Cole Robertson 25/Mar/17 TR dog
MSchobitz 09/Mar/17 Lead dnf

2 inches too weak! Will be back though!

with Jamie Sparkes, USMC
JCAshman 16/Feb/17 Lead G/U
JulesV ??/2017 -
Hidden ??/2017 Lead
Hidden 03/Dec/16 -
scottcoates 05/Nov/16 Lead G/U

Pumped out on the onsight, got it on the second attempt. Class bit of roof climbing finishing nicely into the crux of the tippler.

with williap
shaunhumphreys 19/Oct/16 Lead G/U

Not as bad as expected! at the big reach i was tickling the holds in the break of the tippler so kept trying to do it static till i boxed out, then commited to popping for it second go! curx of the tippler keeps you on edge a bit!

harry_lewis 19/Oct/16 Lead β

on shaun's gear

Adam24B 16/Oct/16 Lead O/S

I climbed up to place the gear and have a crack at the move, it was hard so I down climbed to de pump and then tried different tactics and it went, had to proper shake out before the tippler crux

Kris2fa 16/Oct/16 2nd dog
with Adam24B
samrad 15/Oct/16 Lead O/S
with Swain
JDSwain 15/Oct/16 2nd
with Sam Radcliffe
Hidden 12/Aug/16 Lead G/U
ashtond6 12/Aug/16 Lead G/U
Felix la shat 26/Jul/16 Lead O/S
with Louis
Fraser13 ?/Jul/16 -
scarmichael 18/Jun/16 Lead G/U

Went for a dyno approach to the crux after a few failed attempts, cracking route!

with Steve Wooton
bclifton 17/May/16 Lead
Hidden 24/Apr/16 Lead RP
Hidden 24/Apr/16 Lead RP
Proddler 22/Apr/16 Lead G/U

Fell off years ago, nice to have it in the bag now.

Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 19/Apr/16 2nd rpt
bigdrew 17/Apr/16 Lead β

Tried years ago - didn't even make it to the crux, and couldn't remember a thing about it..

Flavio 09/Apr/16 Lead G/U

Clipped some gear before the leap, one managed to pop out and hit me in the face. Did it 4th go once I finally suppressed the dodgy gear thoughts. Screw the winter of sport/bouldering/indoor, this is the real deal.

Graeme Hammond 31/Mar/16 Lead rpt

Tried previously, so please to get this smoothly today. Buzzing

Hidden 25/Mar/16 Lead β
Ramon Marin 24/Feb/16 Lead dnf
with Matt Pidgen
Ewan Russell 02/Nov/15 Lead G/U
with Ella williams, Johnny Hyde, Henry Logg, Brad
Ash Sayers ?/Oct/15 Lead RP
tebs 20/May/15 2nd dog
with Burns
The old James turnbull 20/May/15 Lead
wi11 20/May/15 Lead dnf
with Brian
Hidden 01/May/15 2nd dog
Louishmouis ?/Apr/15 Lead O/S
with Felix
James Smith 22/Mar/15 2nd
with geoff
grp 22/Mar/15 Lead β

james had a few tries before me so the cams up to the point where it is reversible were placed. im too lazy to ab down to take them out only to put them back n to then reverse back to the floor to rest.

Oddjob 10/Oct/14 2nd dog
with Tom
M_Robinson 05/Oct/14 Lead dnf
Hidden 03/Oct/14 Lead O/S
RFWilkie 27/Sep/14 Lead dog

Flashed the crux of the direct but too pumped for the tippler crux.

dom94 25/Sep/14 Lead G/U

Awesome route!! Took two falls before I got it done.

Ally Smith 14/Sep/14 Lead
quiffhanger 30/Aug/14 Lead RP

Ground up 3rd go. Crux not easy!

with Matt
mark20 20/Aug/14 Lead β

Fell off this years ago

eel 30/Jul/14 2nd dog
with Joe, Ian
robgixer 05/Jul/14 2nd dog
JayAyBee 29/Jun/14 Lead O/S
Rachel Slater 14/Jun/14 Lead dnf

Tried 3 times, 3 nice falls. The second reach is sooooo far!

James Oswald ?/Jun/14 Lead dnf

Some okay attempts in bad conditions. On my 3rd & fourth attempt I couldn't quite reach the final break. Literally a cm away with no more reach left. Brilliant, one to do with a heavy belayer though.

Stig 11/Apr/14 Lead dnf
with Mischa and Coel
James Oakes 19/Mar/14 Lead RP

Second Go.

tim newton 19/Mar/14 Lead β

After James, lead on his gear and with beta. Still happy with the flash

pie_eater_pete 05/Mar/14 Lead
with bwestwood
Dan Arkle ??/2014 -
mike mo ??/2014 2nd
jakenichol 01/Dec/13 Lead

Couple falls on crux, Sound gear and obvious moves. Tippler crux harder to read...

Si dH 16/Nov/13 Lead O/S

Up to put gear in, came down for a rest then blasted through it pretty quick. Felt good. Just made the reach! :)

with Andy
Nick1812P 07/Nov/13 Lead β

on jonny's gear up to the crux

Dan Bates 27/Sep/13 -
Andy Peak 1 25/Sep/13 Lead dnf

Cant do it, i have fallen of this route more than any other

with Eszter
marcduhig 08/Sep/13 2nd O/S
with Haydn
Haydn Jones 08/Sep/13 Lead O/S

really glad how easy this felt, was fully expecting to faff on this but just pulled on, put the gear in and did it with no fuss, happy with myself :P

stuart34 21/Aug/13 Lead dnf

will be back for this one

Michael Allday 13/Jul/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 05/Jun/13 Lead RP
Hidden 01/Jun/13 2nd dnf
john lynch 22/May/13 Lead O/S

Pumpy and brilliant

with pete, ed luke
BillyRidal ?/May/13 Lead RP

First of the grade, took a while to commit to the crux move because i took such a huge rack i couldn't just lock it off, started to rain half way up.

w.pettet-smith 01/Mar/13 Lead

fell off after faffing with poor and pointless runners mid crux. idiot. fine second go, though still helluva move

with dan
Mark Warnett ??/2013 Lead G/U
David Clover 15/Oct/12 Lead dog

great roof section on bomber gear :) hard pull through mind which took some practice!

Dave Turnbull, BMC 06/Oct/12 Lead rpt
with Greg Cunningham
Hidden 06/Oct/12 Lead β
lanky and weak ?/Oct/12 Lead RP

Should have onsighted, didn't see hold on 1st go.

soph 15/Sep/12 Lead
with Lindy Smith
JBO 15/Sep/12 Lead O/S

This is nails! I'm 5'9 so the 'long reach' or 'big lock off' is an all out dyno for me. When I eventually committed to it I only caught the hold on the tips of three fingers, and then the crux of The Tippler is still pretty hard. All adds up to be a pretty tough E3.

Martin Davies 14/Sep/12 Lead dnf
will smith11 02/Sep/12 Lead RP

1st go today after taking my first fall on it 2 years ago.

with Twisty
Twisty 02/Sep/12 2nd rpt

The Tippler crux always gets me after that darn lock off! Wasn't too bad this time though!

jwpil 02/Aug/12 Lead β

Pre placed gear up to first crux from partners dnf. Previously seconded. Such a fun, if hard, line!

with Deacon
jwpil 15/Jul/12 2nd dog

To remove gear from top half of tippler as second couldn't get up. Brutal but good, 1 rest.

with Ben
Quarryboy 14/Jul/12 Lead rpt

I seconded Rob up this two days prior to actually leading it myself and thought it didn't feel too bad, I knew then that I had to go back and do it on lead before the end of the trip so on the last day two hours before having to head back to Bristol I climbed it placing all gear on lead. In terms of the raw difficulty of the climbing it's probably the hardest trad route I have done with it weighing in at about f6c although you cant really hurt yourself on it since it is also about as safe as a f6c with multiple bomber cams protecting the crux.

JamesRich 14/Jul/12 2nd dog

Great effort from Jack and Rob to lead this!

Stanners 12/Jul/12 Lead β

The unexpected route of the trip for me. Having watched and got chatting with a bloke trying it a few times, I asked to have a pop at it as it looked like my kind of route. Climbed up on his gear to the break before the crux. Grunted and managed to snatch the hold beneath the final overhang. Had poor gear with me as I didn't expect to get that far! Somehow got to the top after a while of getting pumped and shoving in poor gear. E3 flash. Got to be happy with that!!!!! :D

with James Rich, Martin Stanfield, Jack Bradbrook
BRoe 26/May/12 Lead G/U

Boiling sun and the rock was greasy as sin so im happy with this line, move to the jug under the second lip was massive but I loved every attempt.

whitehouse_rhys 26/May/12 Lead RP

AMAZING route, big moves and my hardest rout on grit so far! So happy to have got it!

with ben roe
Apharri 02/May/12 Lead O/S
with Dan Parkes
Matt Cooke 28/Apr/12 Lead dog
with Rosh
Hidden 28/Apr/12 Lead dnf
wi11 14/Apr/12 Lead dnf

SOOO far away!

with Ant JW
mwatson 26/Mar/12 Lead rpt

Third time lucky

Tony Kartawick ??/2012 -
Tony Kartawick ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 Lead O/S
Keendan 29/Sep/11 Lead dnf

So hard!

henry peter jenkins 23/Sep/11 Lead RP

fell on first lead at second crux and climbed clean after.

with paul jones
nige 17/Sep/11 Lead O/S
with mark hounslea
Hidden 27/Jul/11 Lead
Jack Loftus 27/Jul/11 2nd dog
with Nick
Hidden 24/Jul/11 Lead dnf
belay bunny turned bad 24/Jul/11 Lead dnf
with loundsy
natalietanzer 10/Jul/11 Lead dog


with will, marcus, nacnud
nacnud 10/Jul/11 Lead O/S
wi11 09/Jul/11 2nd dnf
with Duncan
thomasadixon 29/Jun/11 Lead RP

Previously dogged in Oct/10 with Mike - managed the dyno this time!

with Johnny
JRae 29/Jun/11 2nd
Hannes B 13/Jun/11 Lead O/S
with Sandra & Pascal
Hidden 13/Apr/11 Lead
Hidden 23/Mar/11 Lead
Hidden 23/Mar/11 2nd
markalmack 19/Mar/11 Lead RP
with andy graham, simon bulmer
GPN 19/Mar/11 Lead β

Watched a lad do it before me.

Brown ?/Mar/11 2nd
with Oska
Hidden ??/2011 Lead
Dan Mckinlay ??/2011 -
Hidden ?/Dec/10 -
NeilGriffiths 15/Nov/10 2nd dog
with Simon Frost
frost 14/Nov/10 Lead dog
with N Griffiths
lrandall 07/Nov/10 Lead dnf

First attempt at an E3 and it fisted me. Three attempts ground up, could just make the crux move but not enough grunt left o pull out of it. Then downclimbed stripping my gear. Think this'll go after abit of PE training.

with Andy C
Hidden 06/Nov/10 Lead dnf
jacobjlloyd 16/Oct/10 Lead RP

Bit of a group yoyo session! Got to the crux first go, woosed out of the pop and tried to go static until the pump threw me off. All it took was commitment on the crux move, so taking the fall a few times helped. Fourth go in the end, ground up. Hard move, gorgeous sequence leading into it and the final moves on the original route are fantastic as well! A one-move-wonder, but a true classic!

with alex hallam, Ed Searle, Tom Maidwell
tom106 16/Oct/10 2nd

well impressed with jakes lead!

Wil Treasure 26/Sep/10 Lead
with annette
AsleepOnBelay 22/Sep/10 2nd dog

Yeargh! Fierce, had me dangling a couple of times. Really struggled to get from the ledge on the second roof to the break below the final roof. Ended up going left, feet on, then up. The rockover above is superb though.

with Johannes
Twisty 05/Sep/10 Lead RP

3rd Go. Lovely fall first go, basically needed more rest on my second attempt and should have 'umffed' a little more on the lock off. Lovely moves, bomber gear.

HIGHTOWER 22/Aug/10 Lead dnf
with Danny Mickers
Speeddemonsi 06/Aug/10 Lead O/S
liamoloughlin 27/Jul/10 Lead dog

Did the hard bit fine but screwed the 5b bit up some how???

Mike_Hayes 27/Jul/10 Lead
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 27/Jul/10 2nd rpt
geddicakes 27/Jul/10 2nd O/S
Stephen Horne - Rockfax 25/Jul/10 Lead O/S
mickersd ?/Jul/10 Lead RP
Hidden 23/Jun/10 2nd dog
nepsoi999 02/Jun/10 2nd O/S
Tez29 02/Jun/10 Lead RP

2nd go.

with Tom, Ivan
Hidden 25/Apr/10 Lead dnf
Hidden ?/Apr/10 TR dnf
RossG ??/2010 -
Mike Goldthorp 31/Oct/09 Lead O/S
dmoir 17/Oct/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 18/Sep/09 Lead dnf
feilx 13/Sep/09 Lead dog
with Andy L
Hidden 07/Sep/09 Lead dnf
Hidden 06/Sep/09 Lead rpt
Hidden 27/Aug/09 Lead β
Mr Wild 27/Jul/09 Lead O/S
MeMeMe 25/Jul/09 Lead dnf
with Andy
Reaver2k 10/Jul/09 2nd dnf

Not a chance! I only had one attempt at the crux move because as soon as I had missed it, I was hanging in space and there was no way back up to it. Made a pretty miserable attempt and gave up.

with Michael Watson
Hidden 13/Apr/09 Lead
kingholmesy ??/2009 Lead O/S

Good gear, big burly moves - awesome.

with Andy S
dannyboy83 24/Oct/08 Lead RP

Ground-up as I underestimated the how uber-powerful the crux is!

with Dad
riddle 10/Oct/08 Lead dnf
derico 10/Oct/08 Lead

Finally! Tried year or so ago at end of long day and couldn't get crux. Nailed first try this time and it felt quite straight forward. Really good fun and an amazing route!

with Bandy
will9911 21/Sep/08 Lead O/S
with dave
Hidden 16/Sep/08 Lead RP
dave o 27/Aug/08 Lead dnf

couldnt get through the main roof

with Julia H
Hidden 06/Jun/08 2nd dog
ksjs 23/May/08 Lead dnf

oh dear, not my proudest moment - got cam paranoia and couldnt commit to crux. next time...

Adam Booth 17/Feb/08 Lead dnf
Ed Booth 17/Feb/08 Lead dnf

Was a brick hard reach up to break so came down and did the normal tippler.

Hidden ??/2008 -
Hidden 23/Nov/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 31/Oct/07 Lead O/S
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 15/Sep/07 Lead RP
with Jon Reading
mattyork2 26/Aug/07 Lead dnf
with Josh and pythonist
Pythonist 25/Aug/07 Lead rpt

YES! Finally got it, and such a great route. But geezus, the original Tippler crux feels so much harder after the direct start!

Rob Grant 11/Jul/07 Lead
Ram MkiV 10/Jul/07 Lead dnf

1 inch off reaching the break on the original at full lock. Resorted to trying to go dynamically but couldn't do it.

with tom & alex
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe 08/Jul/07 Lead rpt
with Nic Sellers
furry 28/Apr/07 Lead dnf
with John LMC
craig matheson ?/Apr/07 Solo
Pythonist 21/Feb/07 Lead dnf

Yeah... it's a hard reach that one. Fell off it 6 or so times, and still haven't got it!

Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
The old James turnbull ??/2007 Lead
with tom h
Pete Graham ??/2007 Lead O/S
with Chris Wall
willackers ??/2007 2nd
with Dan Walker
TomHaigh ??/2007 2nd dog
Hidden 21/Dec/06 Lead dnf
bigie bob 09/Aug/06 Lead β
Garan 09/Apr/06 Lead O/S

Bit of a yo-yo session. Good line.

with Duncan Frisch
Lex_2004 21/Jan/06 2nd
with Will Harris
Hidden 20/Jan/06 Lead O/S
dan gibson ??/2006 -
Boy ??/2006 -
mattnuttall ?/Sep/05 2nd rpt
with Clement Mounier
Gus 20/May/05 Lead O/S
with ben rouse
Hidden 29/Apr/05 2nd
Hidden ??/2005 -
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe ??/2005 -
Hidden 31/Oct/04 Lead dog
rapidrich ?/Nov/03 Lead dnf
with Coni
Hidden 27/Jun/03 Lead dnf
Hidden 21/Apr/03 Solo O/S
Strong Steve 13/Apr/02 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2002 -
Dave Musgrove Jnr 12/May/01 2nd


Hidden ?/Sep/00 TR
tuftynick ??/2000 Lead
Hidden ??/2000 -
Roget 25/Sep/99 Lead RP
with jon
CrashMat Rob 16/May/99 Lead β
with Nicky
CrashMat Rob 11/Apr/99 Lead dog
with Nicky
Ben Bransby ??/1999 -
ukb & bmc shark 06/Dec/98 Lead
CrashMat Rob 19/Sep/98 Lead dog

rested on gear, but finished it. Nev 2nd it.

with Dave, Nev, rob?, Nicky
CrashMat Rob 09/Aug/98 TR
with Nicky
CrashMat Rob 02/Aug/98 TR
with Nicky
Hidden 15/Mar/98 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Jan/98 Lead rpt
Hidden 23/Nov/97 Lead rpt
goi.ashmore 20/Sep/97 Lead RP
with Myles Jordan
ste_d 18/Jul/97 2nd O/S
with mik
nokishatov 18/Jul/97 Lead
Hidden ?/Jul/97 Lead O/S
SR1970 ?/Oct/96 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/May/96 -
RossG123 ??/1996 Lead
Cowflinger ?/May/95 Lead

On day of Paul Williams funeral

Hidden 27/Apr/95 Lead
Hidden 27/Apr/95 -
leathers ??/1995 -
Hidden ?/Jun/94 Lead O/S
mattnuttall ?/Jun/94 Lead rpt
with Nick Bishop
Chris Reid 29/May/94 Lead O/S
with Oliver Allen
nokishatov 01/May/93 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1993 Lead
IanD353 ??/1993 Lead O/S
samt 17/Jun/92 Lead dnf


mattnuttall 22/Jun/91 TR RP

felt hard, pumpy

Stoney Boy 09/Aug/90 Lead O/S
Bruce Kerr 18/Mar/90 2nd
charlesmfrench ??/1990 2nd O/S
with Alan Bennett
Hidden ??/1990 -
stp ?/May/89 TR

Tough crux. Thuggish gritstone 6a. Cool.

sadams ?/Sep/87 Lead
with Mark Bonham
Neil McA 10/May/87 Lead O/S
with Beak 1.
sadams 26/Dec/86 Lead dnf
with Guy Townsend
Mike Owen 13/Oct/86 Lead O/S
with Mark Taylor (Fluff)
uphillnow 23/Aug/86 2nd

Pog led it and a crowd of us followed. Couldnt do the rock over move to reach the parent route but found an alturnative

with Andrew (Pog) Horn
ukb & bmc shark 27/Jun/86 Lead dnf
with Seb Grieve
Hidden ??/1986 Lead
sadams 04/May/85 Lead dnf
with John Dunne
Steve Lewis 14/Apr/84 Lead O/S
with Alan Dance
Mark Kemball 04/May/83 Lead dnf
with Paul Clark
Andy Nicholson ?/Jul/82 Lead O/S
with Chez
Mark Kemball 12/May/82 Lead dnf
with Chris Calow
Hidden ?/Apr/82 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1981 Lead
Chris Craggs ??/1980 Lead
paul__in_sheffield ??/1980 Lead
Canyak ??/1973 -
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High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
Votes cast 57
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 57
Votes cast 52
Style of ascent
Not Set
Ground Up
Flashed (β)
Not Set