Rockfax Description
Climb the tough thin crack then continue in the same line to the crux of the original. Move left (good small cams) then mantel to better holds and continue up the left-hand side of the face. © Rockfax

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+, Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS).

Hidden 05/Nov/17 Lead O/S
Stroppy 15/Oct/17 Solo rpt
Felix la shat 24/Sep/17 Lead O/S
with Milo
Lord_ash2000 24/Sep/17 Lead O/S

Planned to do high neb proper but this much more closely reflects where I actually went. Started direct then moved left at mid height.

Hidden 18/Aug/17 Lead O/S
BlueJohn 18/Aug/17 2nd
Dave Garnett 16/Aug/17 2nd O/S
with Peter Edgerton, John Fitzgerald
Simonfarfaraway 24/Jul/17 Lead O/S
with Steve Hastings
James Oakes 22/Jul/17 Solo O/S
Hidden 20/Jul/17 2nd O/S
Hidden 19/Jul/17 2nd O/S
tatz45 02/Jul/17 Lead O/S
JOHNB-W 23/Jun/17 Lead O/S
with andywinfrow
RagingPuffin 14/Jun/17 2nd O/S

Did the starting crack before linking with the arete of High Neb Edge - could not do the starting crux. Nails!

with Tom
Ben Bransby 23/May/17 Solo
DavidPC 10/May/17 Lead O/S
with Maoome
high peak 1 ?/May/17 -
Jake Young 02/Apr/17 2nd rpt
Stroppy 02/Apr/17 Lead O/S
brian watson 25/Mar/17 2nd
with Mike Hawkins
paul79 25/Mar/17 Lead
Rory_Cummings_NI 03/Nov/16 2nd
with Ali
hutchay 08/Oct/16 TR O/S
jimbonfire 03/Oct/16 Lead
with TT
Tom.Priestley 02/Oct/16 Lead O/S
with Amy
Hidden 23/Sep/16 2nd O/S
Deezel65 23/Sep/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Sep/16 2nd O/S
Roland stopps 11/Sep/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Sep/16 2nd
Hidden 06/Sep/16 -
griffithpatrick 01/Sep/16 2nd O/S
amccann 01/Sep/16 Lead rpt
mattlyons 01/Sep/16 2nd
with Alex McCann, Paddy Griffith
JasonK 26/Aug/16 2nd

Did the variation start after Greg led the normal.

with Greg, Nigeysex
chrisdjackson 21/Aug/16 Lead O/S
No? Yes! 18/Jul/16 Lead
Hidden 18/Jul/16 2nd rpt
Hidden 29/May/16 -
daviesp2 15/May/16 2nd
andrzej kierzek 15/May/16 Lead O/S
with Paul Davies
Mowglee 20/Apr/16 Lead O/S
with Ali
Hidden 19/Apr/16 TR
deanhorsburgh 12/Mar/16 TR O/S
Andrew Sullivan 12/Mar/16 TR
wyanp16 12/Mar/16 TR O/S
Becks87 28/Feb/16 2nd O/S
atom 28/Feb/16 Lead O/S
wjlacey ??/2016 TR
Hidden 01/Nov/15 Lead
Hidden 17/Oct/15 TR
Sophie Nunn 20/Sep/15 Lead O/S
with Rob, Mel B
Hidden 19/Sep/15 Lead O/S
Flavio 12/Sep/15 Lead G/U
ben.phillips 23/Aug/15 Lead O/S
with Jared Kitchen
cragsman9000 09/Aug/15 Lead O/S
with Neil
Hidden 08/Aug/15 2nd
Hidden 08/Aug/15 Lead
scarybiker 08/Aug/15 2nd O/S
with Alan Mountford
hotfeet 08/Aug/15 Lead dog
with Graham W
Katsmiff 18/Jul/15 Lead RP

How is this a VS? The starting move was quite technical, like a boulder problem, had to work it through and give myself pep talks to finally get it. The rest of the climb was much easier but lacking gear, as I only had 3 cams.

with Anthony Lauderdale
gaz3212 15/Jul/15 Lead O/S
Antonio Ferra ?/Jul/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 29/Jun/15 2nd RP
chancer 21/Jun/15 Lead O/S
with Ingo Boegemann
yossarian714 16/Jun/15 Lead O/S
JEP 16/Jun/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 27/May/15 -
Chris Murray 23/May/15 Lead

As good as the original.

DanChad 23/May/15 2nd O/S
mike8331 13/May/15 Lead
Hidden 22/Apr/15 -
Mattless 14/Apr/15 TR dog

Hard start but done it on 3rd attempt

Hidden 14/Apr/15 Lead O/S
lee1234 14/Apr/15 2nd
lee1234 14/Apr/15 2nd
pete1993 06/Apr/15 Lead O/S
with Shaun
Matt Marsh 22/Mar/15 2nd
with Aiden Gandy
Canyak ??/2015 -
DeanD ??/2015 Lead
keith leonard ??/2015 -
ned_85 06/Dec/14 2nd
with Joe Hook
Roget 01/Nov/14 Lead O/S
with robin
Robin Nichols 01/Nov/14 2nd rpt

Dam! slipped off on the first go on the start. haha

with Roger
benkelsey 24/Oct/14 Solo β
Gudge 17/Oct/14 Lead O/S
bencole ?/Oct/14 Lead
sparkass 13/Sep/14 Solo O/S

100 IAD No. 34

scarmichael 13/Sep/14 Lead O/S


Mike Bayley 07/Sep/14 2nd
with Peter Nedern
scottcoates 06/Sep/14 2nd
Hidden 04/Aug/14 -
Marti999 01/Aug/14 Lead O/S
with Debbie
Hidden 13/Jul/14 2nd
Theeni 05/Jul/14 Lead O/S
with John McEvoy
timreynolds 14/Jun/14 Lead

Couldn't commit to the first move

with Phill Blight
etrillaud 20/Apr/14 Lead O/S
r.greaves 13/Apr/14 2nd
with steve coughlan
andrew549 01/Apr/14 2nd O/S
Albachoss 01/Apr/14 Lead O/S
with Andrew.W
Adam_42 29/Mar/14 Lead O/S

Tried the starting moves a couple of years back and couldn't commit. Breezed them today with the aid of a pad to soften the potential fall area. Nice route.

with Will Evans
mapperley samurai 08/Mar/14 2nd
with Michael H, Ben Moss, John Cook
Hidden ??/2014 Solo O/S
Hidden 30/Nov/13 2nd
Hidden 13/Nov/13 2nd
DJayB 13/Nov/13 Lead β

Stuck to right arete all the way after initial section. Balancey and windy ;)

Dingchav 11/Oct/13 TR O/S

Wicked climb, try Lead next time

rurp 08/Oct/13 Lead O/S

Tricky and balancy

with bill farmer
Martin Cooper 06/Oct/13 2nd
with Andrew
Jonny Nick 05/Oct/13 Lead O/S
goddamm7 30/Sep/13 Lead O/S
with Sandrex
ferdia 25/Sep/13 2nd
Andy Moles 25/Sep/13 Lead O/S
with Ferdia
dh7892 22/Sep/13 Lead O/S

Bouldery start then plain sailing.

BnB 20/Sep/13 -
Unknownbiker 14/Sep/13 Lead
with Simon Burn
jshields 08/Sep/13 Lead


MikeDowsett 08/Sep/13 2nd
Hidden 31/Aug/13 2nd O/S
Jim Slater 13/Aug/13 2nd O/S

VS 5b.

rich_hw 13/Aug/13 Lead RP
Hidden 11/Aug/13 Lead
Hidden 11/Aug/13 2nd O/S
GAshby 03/Aug/13 Lead O/S

dr_botnik 26/Jul/13 Lead RP

slipped off first go, continued straight up the arete, possibly slightly easier but still really good.

with Graham
strudles 20/Jul/13 Sent O/S

bouldered out the bottom section at about Font 5 onsight then jumped down.

with Leo choi
leoch01 20/Jul/13 2nd
MikeLeeds 10/Jul/13 2nd rpt
tobydunford 15/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with Kirsty Kerr
youwillfindjimbo 02/Jun/13 Lead O/S
ColinD 01/Jun/13 Lead
Hidden ?/Jun/13 2nd O/S
Russell Blackaller 06/May/13 Lead O/S

Harder at the bottom. Good gear though.

with Nick
Hidden 27/Apr/13 Lead
alistairdaish 15/Apr/13 Lead
RM199 02/Mar/13 Lead O/S
Nick1812P 01/Mar/13 Solo O/S
Jake Young 11/Nov/12 Lead O/S
with Laura
MikeLeeds 21/Oct/12 Lead O/S
with Wayne Higgins
bigbobbyking 14/Oct/12 Lead
Alkis 14/Oct/12 Lead O/S

Nice climb, if a little slippy at the start.

Hidden 10/Oct/12 2nd O/S
Hidden 10/Oct/12 Lead O/S
Haydn Jones 16/Sep/12 Lead O/S

start was hard

with ben vieyra
al jackson ?/Sep/12 2nd
jwpil 26/Aug/12 Lead O/S
with Deacon
Matt77 11/Aug/12 Lead O/S
with Shane
keith Lonsdale 24/Jul/12 2nd
deacondeacon 24/Jul/12 Lead O/S

Really hot, found this hard going in the heat, safer than the true line but not as satisfying.

andybirtwistle 24/Jul/12 Lead
freemanTom 21/Jul/12 Lead

Started left went right fineshed left. Didn't feel the quality.

with Sarah friend of Amy, Amy Till
Coel Hellier 12/Jul/12 Lead
Fragmod 10/Jun/12 Lead
cragtyke 10/Jun/12 2nd
David Kay 06/Jun/12 2nd dog

Found the start very hard!

with Simon Coldrick
mark20 04/Jun/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 04/Jun/12 2nd
ColinD 24/May/12 2nd
Hidden 21/May/12 Lead
spragglerocks 28/Apr/12 2nd rpt
jamiev 21/Apr/12 2nd O/S
with Tom Lewis
Hidden 02/Apr/12 2nd
buxtoncoffeelover 02/Apr/12 Lead
MoWalker3 01/Apr/12 -
with Cormac
derekb 28/Mar/12 Lead O/S
with Nick
Hidden 18/Mar/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 05/Mar/12 Lead O/S
beckybutcher91 ??/2012 2nd
Sam Melville ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 -
Hidden 06/Nov/11 Lead O/S
Jonathan Hall 02/Nov/11 2nd
ian d f 29/Sep/11 2nd O/S
mhawk 29/Sep/11 2nd
missxandrabee 29/Sep/11 2nd dog
pearson9596 29/Sep/11 Lead O/S
stevorobs3 26/Sep/11 Lead O/S
mtempest 18/Sep/11 Lead
with Steve Waters, Mynydd
Steve Waters, Mynydd 18/Sep/11 2nd
Si dH 17/Sep/11 2nd rpt
with Mark
Hidden 17/Sep/11 Lead RP
mrmattwright 09/Sep/11 2nd O/S

Mad mad windy. Found it quite hard even on second. Fletch failed to find gear for the second 1/2 of the route. Bold.

with Adrian Fletcher
Strong Steve 23/Jul/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 14/Jul/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 09/Jul/11 2nd O/S
Hidden ?/Jul/11 -
Sam Cooke 29/Jun/11 2nd O/S
JasRY 31/May/11 Lead O/S
with Stephen Kearney
alan1234 21/May/11 TR O/S
Hidden 21/May/11 Solo
Peter Holder 24/Apr/11 2nd
Hidden 18/Apr/11 Lead O/S
robin_hackney 09/Apr/11 Lead RP

Start a fiddle. Had a tumble off before getting established. Worth the battle though.

DanC1985 09/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with Colin
ojp 09/Apr/11 2nd
with Dave, Robin
Dave Foster 09/Apr/11 Lead

Muffed the start a couple of times, bit fiddly.

with Si and Robin
Hidden 26/Mar/11 2nd dog
Lev 26/Mar/11 Lead O/S
gazfellows 29/Jan/11 Lead O/S
with shaun d
PAJames ??/2011 -
PAJames ??/2011 -
PAJames ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 Lead
Hidden ??/2011 Solo
PAJames ??/2011 -
rednip120372 24/Oct/10 2nd
with robblowen
robblowen 24/Oct/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 16/Oct/10 2nd O/S
derekb 02/Oct/10 2nd RP
with Phil pcc
johniebriggs ?/Oct/10 Lead
with barnes junior
Hidden 30/Sep/10 2nd
SteveM 30/Sep/10 Lead
with Alex
Hidden 20/Sep/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 05/Sep/10 2nd
JRae 05/Sep/10 Lead O/S
with Libby K
chrisallan 28/Aug/10 2nd O/S
Hidden 12/Aug/10 TR O/S
Hidden 10/Aug/10 Lead O/S
brices 30/Jul/10 Lead O/S
Ali H 24/Jul/10 2nd
with Dave WXM
Mike Soulby 23/Jul/10 2nd O/S
with Rosie
Oliver Houston 28/Jun/10 Lead O/S
9fingerjon 07/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with Nils
Karlos 03/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with Mark B
bigphil ?/Jun/10 Lead rpt
with Ian, Mark
Hidden 09/May/10 Lead rpt
duncan 17/Apr/10 Lead O/S
jkarran 17/Apr/10 2nd
with Duncan
Hidden 11/Apr/10 2nd O/S
Hidden 10/Apr/10 TR
tallan9 ?/Apr/10 -
tigertim 08/Mar/10 Lead O/S
with James Noble
Scott Anderson ??/2010 -
RossG ??/2010 -
nickb ??/2010 Lead O/S
with laurent
pigeonslipper ??/2010 Lead O/S
Hidden 07/Oct/09 2nd dog
Hidden 04/Oct/09 -
Twisty 21/Sep/09 Lead O/S
with Nigel Stock
loonyclimber 17/Sep/09 Lead O/S
Pilch 12/Sep/09 Lead O/S
with Graham
Darragh ?/Sep/09 -
with Mike & Hanna
coombs ?/Sep/09 Lead
Lewis Andrew 15/Aug/09 Solo
with Fred Prall, Johan Gausden
tigertim 13/Aug/09 2nd
with Tony Payne
GrahamPlant 10/May/09 Solo
tri-nitro-tuolumne 02/May/09 Lead O/S
with Tom Crane
tommytwotone 02/May/09 2nd O/S
with Nigel
Rob Davies 02/May/09 Lead

Upper section only

with Phil Ashton
stickwoman ?/May/09 2nd
with charles jefferson, nathan hall
Katharine.eaton 21/Apr/09 2nd O/S
with Rich Siddle
Somerset swede basher 21/Apr/09 Lead O/S
with Katharine
Daniel Wicks 21/Apr/09 Solo O/S
Hidden 05/Apr/09 2nd O/S
Hidden 16/Mar/09 2nd
Hidden 16/Mar/09 Lead O/S
masonwoods101 ??/2009 Solo
Wil Treasure ??/2009 Lead
Wil Treasure ??/2009 Lead
Hidden ??/2009 -
Wil Treasure ??/2009 Lead
Wil Treasure ??/2009 Lead
Hidden 06/Dec/08 2nd O/S
riven 16/Nov/08 2nd dog

Fluffed the start

with Joe T
victim of mathematics 28/Sep/08 Lead O/S

The start is hard! Easier above, though very enjoyable.

with Jaime
PenJD 27/Sep/08 Lead O/S
with Sam Gerard
darren1 13/Sep/08 Lead O/S
with Andrew Doney
MikeLeeds 15/Aug/08 2nd O/S
clive-greenwood 15/Aug/08 Lead
Brown 23/Jul/08 Solo O/S
feilx 11/Jun/08 Solo O/S
Alfredo ?/May/08 Lead
with Ben H
laurencehicks 16/Apr/08 2nd
with kev
gingerdave13 17/Feb/08 Lead O/S
with stig
Hidden 10/Feb/08 AltLd dnf
Hidden ?/Feb/08 2nd
lowersharpnose 01/Jan/08 Lead
The old James turnbull ??/2008 Lead
Hidden ??/2008 -
Sidekick ??/2008 Lead O/S
The old James turnbull ??/2008 Lead
UrbanClimbing ??/2008 2nd
Hidden ??/2008 -
The old James turnbull ??/2008 Lead
Jim Walton ??/2008 -
AJ007 07/Oct/07 Solo
Hidden 07/Oct/07 Solo
Peakpdr 06/Oct/07 Solo rpt
with PeakDJ
bob3141 10/Sep/07 2nd
Jesse Dufton 10/Sep/07 Lead
with bob3141
Hidden 08/Sep/07 Lead O/S
Si dH 08/Sep/07 2nd RP

Had tried the first few moves (comign in fro mthe right) off the ground earlier, otherwise it was onsight. Not as good as teh original, moves are harder at the bottom but awkward and unrewarding.

with Neil Furniss
Hidden 25/Aug/07 2nd
adam carless 11/Aug/07 2nd rpt

Duncan led near enough the normal version, I seconded the mirror image.

LankyPaddy 05/Aug/07 Lead O/S
Jim Vach 20/May/07 Solo O/S
Joe Dove 28/Apr/07 2nd
with kev
Hidden 16/Apr/07 Solo O/S
IanJackson 06/Apr/07 Solo O/S
with Robeverybody
Hidden 27/Mar/07 Solo
Graeme Hammond 03/Mar/07 Lead O/S
with Phil Baxter
robal ??/2007 -
Hidden ??/2007 -
kingholmesy ??/2007 Lead O/S
with SteveOc
Hidden ??/2007 2nd O/S
Hidden ??/2007 -
Duncan I ??/2007 -
tumbling wizard 15/Oct/06 Lead O/S
Hidden 14/Oct/06 Lead
Nicos 02/Oct/06 Solo O/S
with solo
harryt 01/Oct/06 2nd O/S
with Alex
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 17/Sep/06 Solo O/S
Hidden 20/Aug/06 Lead O/S
Hidden 10/Aug/06 Solo
Hidden 14/Jul/06 2nd rpt
colin milton 14/Jul/06 Lead
with fenclimb
Iggy_B 27/Jun/06 Lead O/S
with Jana Urbankova
Jez 30/Apr/06 Lead O/S
maybe_si 30/Apr/06 2nd
with jez
Pythonist ??/2006 Solo O/S
Jon Greengrass ??/2006 -
Neil Adams ??/2006 -
ArnaudG ??/2006 -
dannyboy83 ?/Oct/05 Solo O/S
Gambit 21/Aug/05 Lead O/S
with Paula
Hopevalleypaul 03/Jul/05 Lead
with Mike C
LoopyLou ?/Jul/05 Lead O/S
with Sam Stell & Sally
markbenton 21/Jun/05 AltLd
arin78 06/Jun/05 2nd O/S
with Mark
Hidden 13/May/05 Lead O/S
gwilym 11/May/05 Solo
reg_measures 02/Apr/05 2nd O/S
with Torran Elson
Wayne S 01/Jan/05 -
Stig 25/May/04 2nd O/S
with Charlie Reade-Jahn
Hidden ?/Apr/04 Lead
Hidden ??/2004 Lead
ChrisBrooke 20/Sep/03 2nd
with John Inkpen
Hidden 30/Aug/03 Solo O/S
DerwentDiluted 05/Jul/03 Lead
Mark Stevenson 14/Jun/03 Solo O/S
James B 22/Mar/03 -
Skell 01/Jan/03 Lead O/S
with Dave
lithos ?/Jun/02 Lead O/S
with all sorts
chris sm 04/Mar/02 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2000 -
akhughes ??/2000 -
antroy 10/Jul/98 Lead
RossG123 ??/1998 Solo
Hidden 25/May/97 Lead O/S
uphillnow ??/1996 Lead

foot slipped near start, held on but really smacked my shin

Iain Thow 21/Aug/93 Lead

Soloed 28/8/93, Also led right hand edge with Christine King & Stewart on same day.

with Rob Ivens
BRUCESTRAC ??/1988 -
with Chris Cracknell,Various
goi.ashmore 02/Jun/86 Solo O/S
paul__in_sheffield ??/1980 Lead
Dave Musgrove 18/Apr/76 Lead

The only one I put a rope on for all day. This was route no 51 out of a hundred!

with Tim Leach, Dennis Gray
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High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 57
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 59
Votes cast 51
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set