UKC

Restricted Access

A review of the previous access agreement with Gloucestershire Wildlife Trust (GWT) has now taken place and the climbable area has been extended,

This extension is only possible due to climbers following the agreed access since 2018 and demonstrating that we are a responsible user group. Needless to say maintaining this extended access depends on future adherence to the below climber's code of conduct too: 

  • All routes left of It’s A Sin on the lower tier and the whole of the upper tier on Main Cliff are permanently restricted to provide a sanctuary area within the reserve.
  • Peregrines have nested on the crag in the past and nesting restrictions may apply 
  • Only use existing paths to prevent damage to sensitive habitat 
  • No removal of trees or branches on the crag or elsewhere within the reserve
  • Take your litter home and pick up any you find at the crag
  • No fires, camping or bivvying anywhere on the GWT’s land
  • No further new routing
12m.

Rockfax Description
A great little climb with an exhilarating finale. Climb up leftwards via small corners to the break and then move up right until level with the lip of the roof. Swing left along a line of good holds and pull up onto the wall that leads to the lower-off. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Climb up a scoop and move left into a v-groove. Gain the break and a standing position on the right. Clip a bolt over the roof, then swing left on a hand-rail and heave over. Finish at His Master's Voice lower-off.

Rob Kingston, Matt Ward 26/Jun/1988.

Ticklists

CoT Wye Valley Mileage #C2K , 6Bs with stars near Bristol , Wye Valley Sport

Feedback

User Date Notes
ulbau 2 Sep, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Worth putting some thought into which way to put the draws in on this one as the gates are easily pushed open when loaded otherwise.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Worth putting some thought into which way to put the draws in on this one as the gates are easily pushed open when loaded otherwise.

Logged Ascents

186 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Ban-y-gor

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Voting
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b+
Mid 6b+
Low 6b+
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
Votes cast 35
Votes cast 33
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Redpoint
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Repeated
Ground Up
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
Heady Days

Grade: 6b+ ***
(Ban-y-gor)

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