Restricted Access

A review of the previous access agreement with Gloucestershire Wildlife Trust (GWT) has now taken place and the climbable area has been extended,

This extension is only possible due to climbers following the agreed access since 2018 and demonstrating that we are a responsible user group. Needless to say maintaining this extended access depends on future adherence to the below climber's code of conduct too: 

  • All routes left of It’s A Sin on the lower tier and the whole of the upper tier on Main Cliff are permanently restricted to provide a sanctuary area within the reserve.
  • Peregrines have nested on the crag in the past and nesting restrictions may apply 
  • Only use existing paths to prevent damage to sensitive habitat 
  • No removal of trees or branches on the crag or elsewhere within the reserve
  • Take your litter home and pick up any you find at the crag
  • No fires, camping or bivvying anywhere on the GWT’s land
  • No further new routing

Rockfax Description
One of the best on this section of the crag. Make hard moves up the wall and slab to below the roof and haul around on good holds to finish as for Avatamsaka. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Climb up directly by means of a couple of hard pulls to reach the break. Surprisingly easy moves over the roof lead to a straightforward finish.

Gary Gibson 02/Sep/1990.


CoT Wye Valley Mileage #C2K , 6Cs with stars near Bristol , Wye Valley Sport


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High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
High 6c+
Mid 6c+
Low 6c+
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
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Votes cast 42
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