Restricted Access
A review of the previous access agreement with Gloucestershire Wildlife Trust (GWT) has now taken place and the climbable area has been extended,
This extension is only possible due to climbers following the agreed access since 2018 and demonstrating that we are a responsible user group. Needless to say maintaining this extended access depends on future adherence to the below climber's code of conduct too:
- All routes left of It’s A Sin on the lower tier and the whole of the upper tier on Main Cliff are permanently restricted to provide a sanctuary area within the reserve.
- Peregrines have nested on the crag in the past and nesting restrictions may apply
- Only use existing paths to prevent damage to sensitive habitat
- No removal of trees or branches on the crag or elsewhere within the reserve
- Take your litter home and pick up any you find at the crag
- No fires, camping or bivvying anywhere on the GWT’s land
- No further new routing
Rockfax Description
Head up rightwards to a bolt and from a side-pull span left to a jug and then lunge for the break. The upper overhang and wall has well spaced good holds and is the hardest part of the route. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Climb up rightwards to the first bolt and get established on the obvious sidepull with surprising difficulty before a span left to a jug and swift lunge to the break. The upper wall has very spaced jugs and is actually the crux.
Matt Ward, Martin J Crocker, Gordon A Jenkin, Rob Kingston 09/Jul/1988.
Ticklists
CoT Wye Valley Mileage #C2K , 6Cs with stars near Bristol
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