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8m.

Rockfax Description
The arete has tough moves to stand on the beak at half-height. A huge jug on the ledge is helpful. © Rockfax

FA. Ken Wright 1951.

Ticklists

All trad climbs at Birchen Edge, Birchen Edge 1981 guide routes

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User Date Notes
Pythonist 19 May, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Don't know what everyone's using the word "perplexing" for... Climb the arete, place gear, rock onto the nose of the arete, and finish. Easy HVS, easy 5b, and very nice!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Don't know what everyone's using the word "perplexing" for... Climb the arete, place gear, rock onto the nose of the arete, and finish. Easy HVS, easy 5b, and very nice!
Chris the Tall 11 Sep, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Harder for the tall ? Long legs are a bit of a hinderance when trying stand up in the break, although the double knee-bar was amusing
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Harder for the tall ? Long legs are a bit of a hinderance when trying stand up in the break, although the double knee-bar was amusing
paul mitchell 2 Aug, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: The route just left is worth a top rope.E5 6a/b solo, Book Sniffer.Start in the gully and climb out right to finish at the top of the arete.No leads please,as nuts will shatter the crux flake. Paul Mitchell
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The route just left is worth a top rope.E5 6a/b solo, Book Sniffer.Start in the gully and climb out right to finish at the top of the arete.No leads please,as nuts will shatter the crux flake. Paul Mitchell
MNA123 23 Jul, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: pinch,pull,smear,break,sit down for a bit,step out pull,slab,over,done. A lovely climb in my opinion.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: pinch,pull,smear,break,sit down for a bit,step out pull,slab,over,done. A lovely climb in my opinion.
Chris Fitzhugh 15 Aug, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: For full benefit, both for leader and spectators, this really must be an onsight lead, and not having seen any one else climb it! A fine route packed with fun and problems for a testing VS at 4c / 5a depending on your height.Chris
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: For full benefit, both for leader and spectators, this really must be an onsight lead, and not having seen any one else climb it! A fine route packed with fun and problems for a testing VS at 4c / 5a depending on your height.Chris
Skyfall 16 Jun, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Well, I thought it was good fun and a definite step up from most of the VS's on this edge, so worth HVS in my view.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Well, I thought it was good fun and a definite step up from most of the VS's on this edge, so worth HVS in my view.

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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 77
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 78
Votes cast 73
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest

Right-hand Tower

Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Stanage North)