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USER ATTENTION

Report of a lose bolt June 2023 - “One of the staples wobbles. As looking out at the sea it is the top left staple on the flat top of rock. This is directly above the iron ladder which gives access from Sharbutts Quarry to Sacred Angel Area”

from 14/06/2023

The four main sections, North, Central, South and Far South have a continuous under cliff path lining them all. But it is better to access each section from either end. After the 2014 landslide destroyed the southern approach, Far South and south are best accessed from the wall quarry a top South section. Sections of the Path can be quick tricky, especially in the wet and the paths to the beach blocks tend to move around over time. Take a moment to look where you are heading to before heading straight to your chosen climbing area.

The classic Pregnant Pause a contender for Portlands longest route, is a full 30m and take a least 16 Draws. A full 60m rope will make it be always tie a knot in the end just in case!   

 

22m.

Rockfax Description
An exciting pitch that is steady at the grade. Follow the gently leaning lower wall to a small ledge below the steep upper section. Pull through a bulge and up the wall with difficulty to a flowstone shelf and the top just above. © Rockfax

FA. Joff Cook 11/Oct/1992.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List , Portland , The Miscampbell/Stephenson recovery tour. , Portland 7a/+ , CC GUIDE (2008): Portland - 1-3 Star Classic & Hard Rock

Feedback

User Date Notes
Rob Knowles 11 Oct, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Poor rock in the lower half. Two holds came off in my hands
βeta?
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βeta: Poor rock in the lower half. Two holds came off in my hands
Cris Reato 8 Jun, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Find the two finger pocket over the roof was a nirvana!!! Many thanks to Nelson Tah and Kendrick Ng for the support ????????
Show beta
βeta: Find the two finger pocket over the roof was a nirvana!!! Many thanks to Nelson Tah and Kendrick Ng for the support ????????
Cyrees 21 Jul, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Very very crumbly bottom half. Wear a helmet if belaying.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Very very crumbly bottom half. Wear a helmet if belaying.
Davros the Psyched 11 Sep, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Bottom half very dirty. A couple of good moves at the top, which make it worth a star.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Bottom half very dirty. A couple of good moves at the top, which make it worth a star.
tomrainbow 2 Sep, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: If the route is chalked it may not appear too crumbly - the decent holds are solid enough. I climbed it in its unchalked state and spent the first half of the climb blindly grabbing handfulls of sand. Did Bad Moon Rising three days earlier - it's bizarre that both routes get the same star rating.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: If the route is chalked it may not appear too crumbly - the decent holds are solid enough. I climbed it in its unchalked state and spent the first half of the climb blindly grabbing handfulls of sand. Did Bad Moon Rising three days earlier - it's bizarre that both routes get the same star rating.
Ben Stokes 23 Jul, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Very dusty when I climbed it today, and a little snappy too.
Show beta
βeta: Very dusty when I climbed it today, and a little snappy too.
richardh 13 Apr, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Still losing stuff off the bottom section, and may even be a touch harder than last year, as i saw to ( they broke off ) a couple of the better holds this weekend.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Still losing stuff off the bottom section, and may even be a touch harder than last year, as i saw to ( they broke off ) a couple of the better holds this weekend.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Blacknor North

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Voting
High 7b
Mid 7b
Low 7b
High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
High 6c+
Mid 6c+
Low 6c+
Votes cast 83
Votes cast 79
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Redpoint
Onsighted
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Repeated
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
Animal Magnetism

Grade: 7a+ ***
(Lulworth)

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