Restricted Access
The four main sections, North, Central, South and Far South have a continuous under cliff path lining them all. But it is better to access each section from either end. After the 2014 landslide destroyed the southern approach, Far South and south are best accessed from the wall quarry a top South section. Sections of the Path can be quick tricky, especially in the wet and the paths to the beach blocks tend to move around over time. Take a moment to look where you are heading to before heading straight to your chosen climbing area.
The classic Pregnant Pause a contender for Portlands longest route, is a full 30m and take a least 16 Draws. A full 60m rope will make it be always tie a knot in the end just in case!
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 March to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
2022 Peregrine nesting in Blacknor Far South 'Punter's Way Area' Restrictions apply to all routes south of ' In on the Killtaker ' extending to all of the accessable routes from there.
At present there area no other active restriction along the Blacknor sections of the west coast.
Rockfax Description
An exciting pitch that is steady at the grade. Follow the gently leaning lower wall to a small ledge below the steep upper section. Pull through a bulge and up the wall with difficulty to a flowstone shelf and the top just above. © Rockfax
FA. Joff Cook 11/Oct/1992.
Ticklists
ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List , Portland , The Miscampbell/Stephenson recovery tour. , Portland 7a/+ , CC GUIDE (2008): Portland - 1-3 Star Classic & Hard Rock
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Rob Knowles | 11 Oct, 2021 |
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βeta: Poor rock in the lower half. Two holds came off in my hands | βeta? | |
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βeta: Poor rock in the lower half. Two holds came off in my hands |
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| Cris Reato | 8 Jun, 2021 |
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βeta: Find the two finger pocket over the roof was a nirvana!!! Many thanks to Nelson Tah and Kendrick Ng for the support ???????? | ||
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βeta: Find the two finger pocket over the roof was a nirvana!!! Many thanks to Nelson Tah and Kendrick Ng for the support ???????? |
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| Cyrees | 21 Jul, 2019 |
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βeta: Very very crumbly bottom half. Wear a helmet if belaying. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Very very crumbly bottom half. Wear a helmet if belaying. |
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| Davros the Psyched | 11 Sep, 2006 |
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βeta: Bottom half very dirty. A couple of good moves at the top, which make it worth a star. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Bottom half very dirty. A couple of good moves at the top, which make it worth a star. |
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| tomrainbow | 2 Sep, 2005 |
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βeta: If the route is chalked it may not appear too crumbly - the decent holds are solid enough. I climbed it in its unchalked state and spent the first half of the climb blindly grabbing handfulls of sand. Did Bad Moon Rising three days earlier - it's bizarre that both routes get the same star rating. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: If the route is chalked it may not appear too crumbly - the decent holds are solid enough. I climbed it in its unchalked state and spent the first half of the climb blindly grabbing handfulls of sand. Did Bad Moon Rising three days earlier - it's bizarre that both routes get the same star rating. |
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| Ben Stokes | 23 Jul, 2005 |
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βeta: Very dusty when I climbed it today, and a little snappy too. | ||
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βeta: Very dusty when I climbed it today, and a little snappy too. |
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| richardh | 13 Apr, 2004 |
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βeta: Still losing stuff off the bottom section, and may even be a touch harder than last year, as i saw to ( they broke off ) a couple of the better holds this weekend. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Still losing stuff off the bottom section, and may even be a touch harder than last year, as i saw to ( they broke off ) a couple of the better holds this weekend. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Blacknor North
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Kinaesthesia
Grade: 7a+ ***
(White Hole)