USER ATTENTION
Report of a lose bolt June 2023 - “One of the staples wobbles. As looking out at the sea it is the top left staple on the flat top of rock. This is directly above the iron ladder which gives access from Sharbutts Quarry to Sacred Angel Area”
from 14/06/2023
The four main sections, North, Central, South and Far South have a continuous under cliff path lining them all. But it is better to access each section from either end. After the 2014 landslide destroyed the southern approach, Far South and south are best accessed from the wall quarry a top South section. Sections of the Path can be quick tricky, especially in the wet and the paths to the beach blocks tend to move around over time. Take a moment to look where you are heading to before heading straight to your chosen climbing area.
The classic Pregnant Pause a contender for Portlands longest route, is a full 30m and take a least 16 Draws. A full 60m rope will make it be always tie a knot in the end just in case!
Rockfax Description
A well-travelled and very good route. Climb the lower wall via a wide crack before moving up and left to below a big pillar of flowstone. Climb the pillar and finish leftwards through the final overhangs in a great position. © Rockfax
FA. Steve Taylor 11/Oct/1992.
West Country Climbs , ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List , Orange Spot Portland , UK "Orange Spot Sport" - The Best of The Rest? , Portland sub 6b , Portland , Portland, Dorset , Portland Sendathon , Top 50 Most Logged Climbs in the South West (Sport)
User | Date | Notes | ||
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Stacy Hackner | 10 Jun, 2021 |
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βeta: Loads of loose rock in the crack. My partner chucked a load of reasonably sized rocks down as she stepped up and one hit me in the head. Thank goodness for helmets. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Loads of loose rock in the crack. My partner chucked a load of reasonably sized rocks down as she stepped up and one hit me in the head. Thank goodness for helmets. |
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greensam | 16 Jul, 2019 |
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βeta: Careful not to end up on Englands Dreaming... | βeta? | |
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βeta: Careful not to end up on Englands Dreaming... |
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FabioM | 15 Apr, 2019 |
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βeta: Amazing route with an amazing exit, well protected but last bolt could be closer to the chain. | ||
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βeta: Amazing route with an amazing exit, well protected but last bolt could be closer to the chain. |
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catt | 31 Jul, 2006 |
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βeta: very nice route, getting better with height. the crux is definitely getting up the tufa. the step round the roof defo feels commiting but big holds aplenty appear and quite easy really. | ||
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βeta: very nice route, getting better with height. the crux is definitely getting up the tufa. the step round the roof defo feels commiting but big holds aplenty appear and quite easy really. |
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Wilbur | 21 Mar, 2006 |
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βeta: cool sequence on the phallus. top move over roof is committing and hard at the grade but good rest beforehand means just about top-end 6a and not 6a+. | ||
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βeta: cool sequence on the phallus. top move over roof is committing and hard at the grade but good rest beforehand means just about top-end 6a and not 6a+. |
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nick w | 3 Mar, 2006 |
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βeta: another good bit of flowstone pulling | βeta? | |
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βeta: another good bit of flowstone pulling |
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Alex More | 12 Oct, 2004 |
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βeta: Nice bold step at the top, exposure and some level headed climbing,top route | βeta? | |
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βeta: Nice bold step at the top, exposure and some level headed climbing,top route |
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SteveWright1967 | 25 Jul, 2000 |
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βeta: Loose rock low down is now cleaning up with traffic - brilliant top tufa earns 2 stars | βeta? | |
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βeta: Loose rock low down is now cleaning up with traffic - brilliant top tufa earns 2 stars |
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Grade: 6a+ ***
(Wallsend South)