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Report of a lose bolt June 2023 - “One of the staples wobbles. As looking out at the sea it is the top left staple on the flat top of rock. This is directly above the iron ladder which gives access from Sharbutts Quarry to Sacred Angel Area”
from 14/06/2023
The four main sections, North, Central, South and Far South have a continuous under cliff path lining them all. But it is better to access each section from either end. After the 2014 landslide destroyed the southern approach, Far South and south are best accessed from the wall quarry a top South section. Sections of the Path can be quick tricky, especially in the wet and the paths to the beach blocks tend to move around over time. Take a moment to look where you are heading to before heading straight to your chosen climbing area.
The classic Pregnant Pause a contender for Portlands longest route, is a full 30m and take a least 16 Draws. A full 60m rope will make it be always tie a knot in the end just in case!
Rockfax Description
A fingery climb, and the first of the superb flowstone pitches on this section of the crag. Start by climbing the wall just right of the bolts to good holds. Ascend the increasingly-technical wall via a thin move and small undercut to an easier finish on the left. © Rockfax
FA. Pete Oxley 12/Sep/1992.
Ticklists
Dorset Sport Climbs A-Z , ROCKFAX Portland: Top 50 , West Country Climbs , ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List , Nat's Summer 2016 Ticklist , Portland , Memorable Climbs , Spanish crew 2018 , Dylan’s ticklist , The Miscampbell/Stephenson recovery tour. , Portland Trip , CC GUIDE (2008): Portland - 1-3 Star Classic & Hard Rock , UK Flowstone , Portland Olympian , Work you fucking piece of shit , Sam and Jerome (Portland Olympian) , Portland Projects 6c-7a+ , Sam and Jerome 2.0 (Portland Olympian) , Top 50 Most Logged Climbs in the South West (Sport) , Portland scheming , Pongoose Portland Sport Climbing Gems
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| earthkeptwarm | 18 Aug, 2020 |
Show βeta
βeta: Fell on crux losing the onsight but tried it differently once I knew what to expect and the second go it went comfortably. Its a really nice climb and I highly rate it. Top 50. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Fell on crux losing the onsight but tried it differently once I knew what to expect and the second go it went comfortably. Its a really nice climb and I highly rate it. Top 50. |
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| ksjs | 23 Jul, 2006 |
Show βeta
βeta: i can nearly always manage 6C, either onsight or rest-assisted, but backed off this: crux felt bold / tenuous | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: i can nearly always manage 6C, either onsight or rest-assisted, but backed off this: crux felt bold / tenuous |
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| Rob Kennard | 23 Apr, 2006 |
Show βeta
βeta: Did this route way back in '94!, definately tricky 6c then, but I feel after a re-ascent yesterday this route should now be 6c+ in light of .the loss of holds low down and polish on the crux | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Did this route way back in '94!, definately tricky 6c then, but I feel after a re-ascent yesterday this route should now be 6c+ in light of .the loss of holds low down and polish on the crux |
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| Max factor | 13 Apr, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: There are two ways to do the crux- direct off the rather crap 2 finger 'pocket' which is easily a 6c move, or keep left to avoid using this hold. Can't recall thinking it was at all badly bolted, but was a bit loose near the belay as I pulled a brick sized lump of mud + shingle off in my hand. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: There are two ways to do the crux- direct off the rather crap 2 finger 'pocket' which is easily a 6c move, or keep left to avoid using this hold. Can't recall thinking it was at all badly bolted, but was a bit loose near the belay as I pulled a brick sized lump of mud + shingle off in my hand. |
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| nealh | 29 Sep, 2004 |
Show βeta
βeta: definitely 6c definitely polished definitely total class | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: definitely 6c definitely polished definitely total class |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Blacknor North
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Opposites Attract
Grade: 6c ***
(Wallsend South)