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Report of a lose bolt June 2023 - “One of the staples wobbles. As looking out at the sea it is the top left staple on the flat top of rock. This is directly above the iron ladder which gives access from Sharbutts Quarry to Sacred Angel Area”

from 14/06/2023

The four main sections, North, Central, South and Far South have a continuous under cliff path lining them all. But it is better to access each section from either end. After the 2014 landslide destroyed the southern approach, Far South and south are best accessed from the wall quarry a top South section. Sections of the Path can be quick tricky, especially in the wet and the paths to the beach blocks tend to move around over time. Take a moment to look where you are heading to before heading straight to your chosen climbing area.

The classic Pregnant Pause a contender for Portlands longest route, is a full 30m and take a least 16 Draws. A full 60m rope will make it be always tie a knot in the end just in case!   



Rockfax Description
Although only an eliminate linking section of climbing, it provides a surprisingly good and quite long section of independent moves. Climb Reptile Smile to below its crux. Climb right and up to join Slings Shot at its penultimate bolt. This is a tight line - don't stray into Slings Shot too early. © Rockfax

FA. Will Jones May/1996.


4 - 5 Grade Climbs Portland Westcoast , 4 - 5 Grade Climbs Portland Westcoast , Portland , CC GUIDE (2008): Portland - 1-3 Star Classic & Hard Rock , Pongoose Portland Sport Climbing Gems


User Date Notes
viking 31 Aug, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: nice route - easy start, technical move across to meet slingshot and then jug hauling - great!
Show beta
βeta: nice route - easy start, technical move across to meet slingshot and then jug hauling - great!

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Blacknor North

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High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 65
Votes cast 57
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Last of the Summer Wine

Grade: 5c ***
(Blacknor Central)

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