UKC

58m, 5 pitches. A new start to Tatra giving quality climbing on a natural line. Very well protected and a great route to practice easy aid climbing. Access the Boulder Ruckle via the Marmolata Buttress abseil.

1) VS 4c, 10m. Start as for The Heidelberg Creature, or better from The Cheshire Cat. Climb The Heidelberg Creature for 10m and belay to avoid rope drag.
2) E1 5a, 8m. Traverse right under the roof to reach a spike (on the The Tool) at the far end.
3) E2 5b, 12m. Step down (leaving a sling on the spike to protect the second) and follow the rising underclings to reach an alcove and an easy traverse on to Tatra. Belay on the right at the large crack on the good foot ledge. Pitches 2 and 3 can be combined if carrying 2 sets of 0.3 to 2.5 inch cams.
4) VS 4b, 6m. As for Tatra. Up the crack; wrap a sling around the jug; hand traverse right on good footholds to step up at the arĂȘte.
5) VS 5a, 22m. As for Tatra. Climb the large corner above. Large cams needed.

FA. David Coley, Stuart Fox 25/Jan/2014.

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Route of Interest
Tudor Rose

Grade: E2 5b ***
(Guillemot Ledge)

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