Rockfax Description
Space-walking on its final pitch and with plenty of interesting climbing throughout. Quite tough at the grade. Start above the tidal pool at a deep, narrowing chimney.
1) 4b, 24m. Bridge up the chimney and move out onto its left rib where it narrows. This point can also be gained by climbing the corner-crack right of the chimney to a ledge and then moving left. Move up and then step right to a ledge on the main buttress. Climb to a small stance at the left end of the roof that comes in from the right. This pitch can be split above the initial chimney.
2) 4a, 17m. Traverse rightwards above the lip of the overhang and follow cracks up the centre of the wall in a fantastic position until a leftward line can be followed to a big ledge and belay on blocks.
3) 4b,11m. The line of steep thin cracks above the centre of the ledge provides an excellent but short-lived finish. © Rockfax
Connoisseur's Classic Rock , West Country Climbs , 50 Best HS Routes in the UK. , HS Climbs to do in Summer 2014 , Best Multi-pitch Severe and Hard Severe , South West VDiff-HVS , CUC Climbing Club, Part 1: The Classics , Paul's pre-Kendal Kernow ticklist , Ultimate HS ticklist , South West Climbs - Pat Littlejohn (1st Ed.) , Learning to Trad Climb: Cornwall , Cornwall , Kernow , Luke & Andy's Cornish Climbathon , Cornwall - October 2023
User | Date | Notes | ||
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Rhys Hughes | 19 Apr, 2021 |
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βeta: Fraser led P1, pretty serious for a HS, easy stemming but wouldnt want a foot slip! I led P2 and 3 together (took the direct line, as for Diocese). Great route | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Fraser led P1, pretty serious for a HS, easy stemming but wouldnt want a foot slip! I led P2 and 3 together (took the direct line, as for Diocese). Great route |
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Grade: HS 4a ***
(Chair Ladder)