Rockfax Description
The enduring classic at this end of Chair Ladder provides a long and diverse expedition. Start at a corner-crack in the centre of the bulging wall left of a deep seawater filled trench.
1) 4b, 32m. Climb the wide crack to its end and continue to an overhang above it. Pull over the overhang at a crack (easier on the right) and ascend a short wall to a large ledge and belay.
2) 4a, 20m. Move up onto a bubbly slab on the right and climb it to the base of a corner. Climb the corner and the enticing right curving continuation to a stance at its end.
3) 4b, 18m. Move back left and make a hard move up onto a ledge. Traverse left to gain another ledge and then step right and finish up a short slabby groove and wide crack. © Rockfax
Connoisseur's Classic Rock , West Country Climbs , Best Multi-pitch Severe and Hard Severe , South West VDiff-HVS , CUC Climbing Club, Part 1: The Classics , Paul's pre-Kendal Kernow ticklist , Ultimate HS ticklist , South West Climbs - Pat Littlejohn (1st Ed.) , Learning to Trad Climb: Cornwall , 50 more great HS routes , Cornwall , Classic Rock Climbs in Southern England by Bill Birkett , South West Coastal Solo , Luke & Andy's Cornish Climbathon , Cornwall Trip 2024
User | Date | Notes | ||
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milanboez | 23 Jul, 2023 |
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βeta: Fantastic route. First pitch felt high in the grade. Second pitch delicate in places. Third pitch crux - what's the drama? Got 4 pieces of average size gear (nuts and cams) before the mantel, which isn't as bad as people make out. Recommended. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Fantastic route. First pitch felt high in the grade. Second pitch delicate in places. Third pitch crux - what's the drama? Got 4 pieces of average size gear (nuts and cams) before the mantel, which isn't as bad as people make out. Recommended. |
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jonesdwill | 30 May, 2022 |
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βeta: Gulls nesting just above first belay. Would avoid for a while. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Gulls nesting just above first belay. Would avoid for a while. |
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Iain Weymouth | 30 May, 2022 |
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βeta: 3 pairs of nesting herring gulls around P2. I'd give it a miss for the time being | βeta? | |
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βeta: 3 pairs of nesting herring gulls around P2. I'd give it a miss for the time being |
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Jasper Pickin | 1 Apr, 2022 |
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βeta: Alternate leading with my brother and dad (I'm 14) and I had the 3rd pitch. First move of the third pitch pretty tough and gear is not great before it. Would recommend micro cams/aliens. If HS is your max grade wouldn't recommend | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Alternate leading with my brother and dad (I'm 14) and I had the 3rd pitch. First move of the third pitch pretty tough and gear is not great before it. Would recommend micro cams/aliens. If HS is your max grade wouldn't recommend |
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mishabruml | 14 May, 2021 |
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βeta: There are very aggressive and protective seagulls nesting on P2 of this route just before the curving crack. They divebombed me and we had to bail | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: There are very aggressive and protective seagulls nesting on P2 of this route just before the curving crack. They divebombed me and we had to bail |
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jfms | 23 Jul, 2020 |
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βeta: Last pitch raised to 4c in the 2017 edition of the CC Cornwall (South) guide book and I think that's correct. | ||
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βeta: Last pitch raised to 4c in the 2017 edition of the CC Cornwall (South) guide book and I think that's correct. |
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Peter271263 | 23 Jun, 2019 |
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βeta: Good route | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Good route |
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Grade: HS 4b ***
(St. Clether Crag)