Rockfax Description
The enduring classic at this end of Chair Ladder provides a long and diverse expedition. Start at a corner-crack in the centre of the bulging wall left of a deep seawater filled trench.
1) 4b, 32m. Climb the wide crack to its end and continue to an overhang above it. Pull over the overhang at a crack (easier on the right) and ascend a short wall to a large ledge and belay.
2) 4a, 20m. Move up onto a bubbly slab on the right and climb it to the base of a corner. Climb the corner and the enticing right curving continuation to a stance at its end.
3) 4b, 18m. Move back left and make a hard move up onto a ledge. Traverse left to gain another ledge and then step right and finish up a short slabby groove and wide crack. © Rockfax
Ticklists
Connoisseur's Classic Rock , West Country Climbs , Best Multi-pitch Severe and Hard Severe , South West VDiff-HVS , CUC Climbing Club, Part 1: The Classics , Paul's pre-Kendal Kernow ticklist , Ultimate HS ticklist , South West Climbs - Pat Littlejohn (1st Ed.) , Learning to Trad Climb: Cornwall , 50 more great HS routes , Cornwall , Classic Rock Climbs in Southern England by Bill Birkett , South West Coastal Solo , Luke & Andy's Cornish Climbathon
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Salvo1 | 1 Jun |
Show βeta
βeta: Nice lead Andy B. Climbed late afternoon so 1st pitch was nice 'n' dry. Approached the crack facing to the rhs not the lhs which made it somewhat more difficult. 2nd pitch is such a joy, the sun on your back, crashing sea, gulls feeding there young. 3rd pitch ha..step up on the face no probs, the next move around the bulge made me think. Class climb with the Boyees, thx Andy B & D S | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Nice lead Andy B. Climbed late afternoon so 1st pitch was nice 'n' dry. Approached the crack facing to the rhs not the lhs which made it somewhat more difficult. 2nd pitch is such a joy, the sun on your back, crashing sea, gulls feeding there young. 3rd pitch ha..step up on the face no probs, the next move around the bulge made me think. Class climb with the Boyees, thx Andy B & D S |
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| milanboez | 23 Jul, 2023 |
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βeta: Fantastic route. First pitch felt high in the grade. Second pitch delicate in places. Third pitch crux - what's the drama? Got 4 pieces of average size gear (nuts and cams) before the mantel, which isn't as bad as people make out. Recommended. | ||
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Show beta
βeta: Fantastic route. First pitch felt high in the grade. Second pitch delicate in places. Third pitch crux - what's the drama? Got 4 pieces of average size gear (nuts and cams) before the mantel, which isn't as bad as people make out. Recommended. |
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| jonesdwill | 30 May, 2022 |
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βeta: Gulls nesting just above first belay. Would avoid for a while. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Gulls nesting just above first belay. Would avoid for a while. |
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| Iain Weymouth | 30 May, 2022 |
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βeta: 3 pairs of nesting herring gulls around P2. I'd give it a miss for the time being | βeta? | |
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βeta: 3 pairs of nesting herring gulls around P2. I'd give it a miss for the time being |
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| Jasper Pickin | 1 Apr, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: Alternate leading with my brother and dad (I'm 14) and I had the 3rd pitch. First move of the third pitch pretty tough and gear is not great before it. Would recommend micro cams/aliens. If HS is your max grade wouldn't recommend | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Alternate leading with my brother and dad (I'm 14) and I had the 3rd pitch. First move of the third pitch pretty tough and gear is not great before it. Would recommend micro cams/aliens. If HS is your max grade wouldn't recommend |
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| mishabruml | 14 May, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: There are very aggressive and protective seagulls nesting on P2 of this route just before the curving crack. They divebombed me and we had to bail | βeta? | |
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βeta: There are very aggressive and protective seagulls nesting on P2 of this route just before the curving crack. They divebombed me and we had to bail |
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| jfms | 23 Jul, 2020 |
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βeta: Last pitch raised to 4c in the 2017 edition of the CC Cornwall (South) guide book and I think that's correct. | ||
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βeta: Last pitch raised to 4c in the 2017 edition of the CC Cornwall (South) guide book and I think that's correct. |
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| Peter271263 | 23 Jun, 2019 |
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βeta: Good route | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Good route |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Chair Ladder
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Terrier's Tooth (pre-2014)
Grade: HS 4a ***
(Chair Ladder)