UKC

70m, 3 pitches.

Rockfax Description
The enduring classic at this end of Chair Ladder provides a long and diverse expedition. Start at a corner-crack in the centre of the bulging wall left of a deep seawater filled trench.

1) 4b, 32m. Climb the wide crack to its end and continue to an overhang above it. Pull over the overhang at a crack (easier on the right) and ascend a short wall to a large ledge and belay.
2) 4a, 20m. Move up onto a bubbly slab on the right and climb it to the base of a corner. Climb the corner and the enticing right curving continuation to a stance at its end.
3) 4b, 18m. Move back left and make a hard move up onto a ledge. Traverse left to gain another ledge and then step right and finish up a short slabby groove and wide crack. © Rockfax

Ticklists

Connoisseur's Classic Rock , West Country Climbs , Best Multi-pitch Severe and Hard Severe , South West VDiff-HVS , CUC Climbing Club, Part 1: The Classics , Paul's pre-Kendal Kernow ticklist , Ultimate HS ticklist , South West Climbs - Pat Littlejohn (1st Ed.) , Learning to Trad Climb: Cornwall , 50 more great HS routes , Cornwall , Classic Rock Climbs in Southern England by Bill Birkett , South West Coastal Solo , Luke & Andy's Cornish Climbathon

Feedback

User Date Notes
milanboez 23 Jul, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Fantastic route. First pitch felt high in the grade. Second pitch delicate in places. Third pitch crux - what's the drama? Got 4 pieces of average size gear (nuts and cams) before the mantel, which isn't as bad as people make out. Recommended.
βeta?
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βeta: Fantastic route. First pitch felt high in the grade. Second pitch delicate in places. Third pitch crux - what's the drama? Got 4 pieces of average size gear (nuts and cams) before the mantel, which isn't as bad as people make out. Recommended.
jonesdwill 30 May, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Gulls nesting just above first belay. Would avoid for a while.
βeta?
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βeta: Gulls nesting just above first belay. Would avoid for a while.
Iain Weymouth 30 May, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: 3 pairs of nesting herring gulls around P2. I'd give it a miss for the time being
βeta?
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βeta: 3 pairs of nesting herring gulls around P2. I'd give it a miss for the time being
Jasper Pickin 1 Apr, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Alternate leading with my brother and dad (I'm 14) and I had the 3rd pitch. First move of the third pitch pretty tough and gear is not great before it. Would recommend micro cams/aliens. If HS is your max grade wouldn't recommend
βeta?
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βeta: Alternate leading with my brother and dad (I'm 14) and I had the 3rd pitch. First move of the third pitch pretty tough and gear is not great before it. Would recommend micro cams/aliens. If HS is your max grade wouldn't recommend
mishabruml 14 May, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: There are very aggressive and protective seagulls nesting on P2 of this route just before the curving crack. They divebombed me and we had to bail
βeta?
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βeta: There are very aggressive and protective seagulls nesting on P2 of this route just before the curving crack. They divebombed me and we had to bail
jfms 23 Jul, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Last pitch raised to 4c in the 2017 edition of the CC Cornwall (South) guide book and I think that's correct.
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βeta: Last pitch raised to 4c in the 2017 edition of the CC Cornwall (South) guide book and I think that's correct.
Peter271263 23 Jun, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Good route
βeta?
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βeta: Good route

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Voting
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
High S
Mid S
Low S
Votes cast 78
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
Votes cast 76
Votes cast 73
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
DNF
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Flannel Avenue

Grade: HS 4b ***
(Chair Ladder)

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