UKC

43m, 4 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A popular and interesting route composed of four short but entertaining pitches that are split by accommodating belay ledges. Start at a slim right-facing corner in the middle of the face.
1) 4b, 12m. Climb the corner and wall via spaced ledges to horizontal breaks. Traverse left and pull onto a belay ledge at the base of a slab.
2) 4c, 6m. The intricate, short slab and corner lead to another good ledge with peg and nut belays.
3) 5a, 10m. Move above the belay steeply to below an overhang, peg. Move left and gain a small corner above with a bit of a struggle. Continue to a belay on the edge of the buttress at a tree.
4) 15m. Follow the cleanest line up the edge of the buttress to the summit of the Western Tower. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
It is usual to do this in two pitches. Belaying at the Spider P1 belay ledge is suggested for first timers, but it is also possible to belay post-crux at the tree above.

FA. N.Hannaby 1961.

Ticklists

West Country Climbs , South West VDiff-HVS , 100 Best South West Mid Grade Routes , South West Classic VS's , Chudleigh Challenge , South West Climbs - Pat Littlejohn (1st Ed.) , I want a Pasty! , The Devonman Cometh - Living in Exeter Top200.

Feedback

User Date Notes
Christian Kuhlmann 8 May Show βeta
βeta: Quite a sweaty day! Lead P1 and P2. Brilliant climbing! Abseiled off a mostly dead Ash tree (with Ash die back) to avoid the chossy summit. Not sure how much that tree has left in it, be warned.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Quite a sweaty day! Lead P1 and P2. Brilliant climbing! Abseiled off a mostly dead Ash tree (with Ash die back) to avoid the chossy summit. Not sure how much that tree has left in it, be warned.
John Cuthbert 27 Jul, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: I havent been to Chudleigh for an aeon, and i cant say that my latest foray has altered my opinion on the crag's virtues. I do not get why this is a 3 star classic. Its not even close to a typical 3 star peak or N.Wales offering, or to the stunning routes at the Dewerstone nearby. Its awkward, often polished, sometimes poorly protected, and sometimes all these 3 star virtues are present at once. As for the final pitch, it now in such a state of thorny skin shredding decay, that the poor old tree on the 3rd belay is dying from the excesses of its employment as an abseil bail anchor. I'll no be back in a hurry...
Show beta
βeta: I havent been to Chudleigh for an aeon, and i cant say that my latest foray has altered my opinion on the crag's virtues. I do not get why this is a 3 star classic. Its not even close to a typical 3 star peak or N.Wales offering, or to the stunning routes at the Dewerstone nearby. Its awkward, often polished, sometimes poorly protected, and sometimes all these 3 star virtues are present at once. As for the final pitch, it now in such a state of thorny skin shredding decay, that the poor old tree on the 3rd belay is dying from the excesses of its employment as an abseil bail anchor. I'll no be back in a hurry...
Dave1987 7 Nov, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Sopping wet crack on the crux, so was a bit sketch. Banjo Dan fell on second, unforgivable!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Sopping wet crack on the crux, so was a bit sketch. Banjo Dan fell on second, unforgivable!
Peter271263 28 May, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Great route
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Great route
chris j 7 Jul, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: If you're careful with ropework it's probably best to do the first three pitches as one. Superb route though a little polished around the crux.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: If you're careful with ropework it's probably best to do the first three pitches as one. Superb route though a little polished around the crux.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Chudleigh Rocks - South Face

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Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 113
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 111
Votes cast 98
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
DNF
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
Albion

Grade: VS 4c ***
(Lundy)

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