Rockfax Description
A popular route composed of four short but entertaining pitches that are split by accommodating belay ledges. Start at a slim right-facing corner in the middle of the face.
1) 4b, 12m. Climb the corner and wall via spaced ledges to horizontal breaks. Traverse left and pull onto a belay ledge at the base of a slab.
2) 4c, 6m. The intricate slab and corner lead to another good ledge with peg and nut belays.
3) 5a, 10m. Move above the belay steeply to below an overhang, peg. Move left and gain a small corner above with a bit of a struggle. Continue to a belay on the edge of the buttress.
4) 15m. Follow the cleanest line up the edge of the buttress to the summit of the Western Tower. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
It is usual to do this in two pitches. Belaying at the Spider P1 belay ledge is suggested for first timers, but it is also possible to belay post-crux at the tree above.
FA. N.Hannaby 1961.
West Country Climbs , South West VDiff-HVS , 100 Best South West Mid Grade Routes , South West Classic VS's , Chudleigh Challenge , South West Climbs - Pat Littlejohn (1st Ed.) , I want a Pasty! , South Devon Stars: Diff - HVS , The Devonman Cometh - Living in Exeter Top200. , The South Devon Time Machine (Part I)
User | Date | Notes | ||
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toriabobs31 | 20 Apr |
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βeta: Done in 2 pitches. Belay stance P1 is in need of replacement. Not much to back it up. Use with caution. Should be replaced. Move off of the belay stance was pretty grim! 3 stars... surely not. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Done in 2 pitches. Belay stance P1 is in need of replacement. Not much to back it up. Use with caution. Should be replaced. Move off of the belay stance was pretty grim! 3 stars... surely not. |
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Christian Kuhlmann | 8 May, 2022 |
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βeta: Quite a sweaty day! Lead P1 and P2. Brilliant climbing! Abseiled off a mostly dead Ash tree (with Ash die back) to avoid the chossy summit. Not sure how much that tree has left in it, be warned. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Quite a sweaty day! Lead P1 and P2. Brilliant climbing! Abseiled off a mostly dead Ash tree (with Ash die back) to avoid the chossy summit. Not sure how much that tree has left in it, be warned. |
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John Cuthbert | 27 Jul, 2021 |
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βeta: I havent been to Chudleigh for an aeon, and i cant say that my latest foray has altered my opinion on the crag's virtues. I do not get why this is a 3 star classic. Its not even close to a typical 3 star peak or N.Wales offering, or to the stunning routes at the Dewerstone nearby. Its awkward, often polished, sometimes poorly protected, and sometimes all these 3 star virtues are present at once. As for the final pitch, it now in such a state of thorny skin shredding decay, that the poor old tree on the 3rd belay is dying from the excesses of its employment as an abseil bail anchor. I'll no be back in a hurry... | ||
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βeta: I havent been to Chudleigh for an aeon, and i cant say that my latest foray has altered my opinion on the crag's virtues. I do not get why this is a 3 star classic. Its not even close to a typical 3 star peak or N.Wales offering, or to the stunning routes at the Dewerstone nearby. Its awkward, often polished, sometimes poorly protected, and sometimes all these 3 star virtues are present at once. As for the final pitch, it now in such a state of thorny skin shredding decay, that the poor old tree on the 3rd belay is dying from the excesses of its employment as an abseil bail anchor. I'll no be back in a hurry... |
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Peter271263 | 28 May, 2019 |
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βeta: Great route | βeta? | |
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βeta: Great route |
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chris j | 7 Jul, 2005 |
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βeta: If you're careful with ropework it's probably best to do the first three pitches as one. Superb route though a little polished around the crux. | βeta? | |
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βeta: If you're careful with ropework it's probably best to do the first three pitches as one. Superb route though a little polished around the crux. |
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Grade: VS 4b ***
(Chudleigh Rocks - South Face)