UKC

43m, 4 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A popular and interesting route composed of four short but entertaining pitches that are split by accommodating belay ledges. Start at a slim right-facing corner in the middle of the face.
1) 4b, 12m. Climb the corner and wall via spaced ledges to horizontal breaks. Traverse left and pull onto a belay ledge at the base of a slab.
2) 4c, 6m. The intricate, short slab and corner lead to another good ledge with peg and nut belays.
3) 5a, 10m. Move above the belay steeply to below an overhang, peg. Move left and gain a small corner above with a bit of a struggle. Continue to a belay on the edge of the buttress at a tree.
4) 15m. Follow the cleanest line up the edge of the buttress to the summit of the Western Tower. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
It is usual to do this in two pitches. Belaying at the Spider P1 belay ledge is suggested for first timers, but it is also possible to belay post-crux at the tree above.

FA. N.Hannaby 1961.

Ticklists

West Country Climbs, South West VDiff-HVS, 100 Best South West Mid Grade Routes, South West Classic VS's, Chudleigh Challenge, South West Climbs - Pat Littlejohn (1st Ed.), I want a Pasty!, The Devonman Cometh - Living in Exeter Top200.

Feedback

User Date Notes
Dave1987 7 Nov, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Sopping wet crack on the crux, so was a bit sketch. Banjo Dan fell on second, unforgivable!
βeta?
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βeta: Sopping wet crack on the crux, so was a bit sketch. Banjo Dan fell on second, unforgivable!
Peter271263 28 May, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Great route
βeta?
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βeta: Great route
chris j 7 Jul, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: If you're careful with ropework it's probably best to do the first three pitches as one. Superb route though a little polished around the crux.
βeta?
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βeta: If you're careful with ropework it's probably best to do the first three pitches as one. Superb route though a little polished around the crux.

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High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 109
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 107
Votes cast 94
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
DNF
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest

Shamrock

Grade: VS 4c ***
(Lundy)
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