One not to be missed. Two contrasting pitches wend their way up Chudleigh's biggest chunk of limestone. Start just left of a low zig-zag crack at a small corner that leads to a ledge at 3m.
1) 5a, 20m. Climb onto the ledge and take the diagonal crack left to another ledge. Arrange gear and move left and up onto a good hold in the middle of the slab. Some bold moves gain the belay ledge up on the left. Peg and nut belay.
2) 5b, 24m. From the right side of the belay ledge move up to another smaller ledge and take the white wall above to an overhang. Climb steeply around its left side on good holds to a small ledge above. Climb direct above the ledge to a small whitish groove that allows access to the thin crack on the grey headwall, good wires. Work rightwards on thin ground to a tree stump and finish up the easier wall and cracks above. © Rockfax
FA. F.Cannings 15/Jun/1964.
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