UKC

25m.

Rockfax Description
A classic pumpy wall of steep cracks and flowstone with the crux at the top. The best 6b+ on Portland. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Lost a lot of the route. Not the classic it once was, not really climbable in current state.

FA. Pete Oxley 20/Apr/1993.

Ticklists

Dorset Sport Climbs A-Z , ROCKFAX Portland: Top 50 , 3 Star Portland , ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List , Nat's Summer 2016 Ticklist , Portland 3 stars grades 6 and below , Portland , Spanish crew 2018 , UK Flowstone , Portland scheming , Pongoose Portland Sport Climbing Gems , Portland Lost To Time , 3* Portland Sport 2021

Feedback

User Date Notes
luis_jacobs 4 Aug, 2024 Show βeta
βeta: Seems like the first bolt has also fallen off along with the huge block midway. No way of climbing this as a sport route in its current state, what a shame!
βeta?
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βeta: Seems like the first bolt has also fallen off along with the huge block midway. No way of climbing this as a sport route in its current state, what a shame!
slowmotion 28 May, 2024 Show βeta
βeta: A huge flake of flowstone under the roof is no longer there. It has taken a bolt with it and the remaining rock could well be very loose and dangerous. Adjacent routes may also be affected.
βeta?
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βeta: A huge flake of flowstone under the roof is no longer there. It has taken a bolt with it and the remaining rock could well be very loose and dangerous. Adjacent routes may also be affected.
Wilbur 21 Jul, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Yes but how many people would have discovered it's charms if wasn't bolted?
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Yes but how many people would have discovered it's charms if wasn't bolted?
Chris Shorter 1 Oct, 2001 Show βeta
βeta: It's just like Ben says. From below, it looks pretty unlikely but the jugs keep on appearing. Pretty easy for 6b+ if you're used to steep routes.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: It's just like Ben says. From below, it looks pretty unlikely but the jugs keep on appearing. Pretty easy for 6b+ if you're used to steep routes.

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b+
Mid 6b+
Low 6b+
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
Votes cast 43
Votes cast 46
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Redpoint
Repeated
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
Buoys Will Be Buoys

Grade: 6b+ ***
(Battleship Back Cliff)

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