4 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A magnificent climb that builds to a stunning and very exposed crack pitch on the headwall.
1) 5a, 15m. As for Vector.
2) 5c, 20m. Climb up, then pull left and tackle a short steep groove left of a jutting nose. Urgent moves through this lead with relief to a small ledge and a groove shared with Nimbus. Follow this to the Vector cave stance.
3) 4b, 10m. Continue along the same diagonal line to a belay below the headwall.
4) 6a, 15m. Head up a crack and step left into a small groove. Move up this to gain the crack in the headwall. Charge up this and make a powerful move out left to improving holds leading leftwards to the top. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
The exposed top pitch up the middle of the headwall is sustained and out there but well protected and not too hard technically if you don't let the exposure get to you. (Using 150ft ropes & careful rope work it is possible to do the first 3 pitches as 1 with very little drag)


Extreme Rock , North Wales Rock Graded List , ROCKFAX Style Top 50: North Wales , ROCKFAX - Top 50 North Wales Climbs , Alex's Wales ticklist , Bangor BUMS Uni-Life Ticklist , Fast & Free: Pete Livesay's Top 30 British Classics , WideBoyz Crack School , Ultimate E4 ticklist , Tom Randalls Classic Finger Cracks , The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , James' Summer Ticklist , Caelan visits , Crackageddon , Definitive *** Tremadog , 30 For My 30s , Best of the rest and the ones that got away , Big Ron routes for mortals , Welsh climbs to last a lifetime , Preparation for the Resurrection , Year 2 ticklist


User Date Notes
Misha 11 May, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Two green cams handy for the crux headwall. First three pitches are fine in one on 50m ropes but take lots of runners!
Show beta
βeta: Two green cams handy for the crux headwall. First three pitches are fine in one on 50m ropes but take lots of runners!

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Craig Bwlch y Moch (Tremadog)

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High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
Votes cast 62
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 63
Votes cast 60
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Jack of Shadows

Grade: E4 6a ***
(Rainbow Slab Area)

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