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Rockfax Description
The most famous route at Tremadog is showing signs of over-climbing, and does get very chalky since much of it never gets rained on, but the positions and line are phenomenal. Start up and right of One Step in the Clouds on a large flake.
1) 5a, 15m. Step off the flake and climb a groove, then step onto a slab on the right. Follow a corner up and left then move left again to the belay.
2) 5c, 25m. Climb up right past a small spike to a difficult crack which leads to a massive spike. Make hard moves up to the base of a groove. Another brave move right leads onto the infamous Ochre Slab. Climb the slab then move left into another groove. At its top, move left below the roof to gain the cave stance. Up to this point can often be climbed in light rain, then you can abseil off.
3) 5b, 20m. Traverse left, then pull diagonally leftwards over a roof onto another hanging slab. Continue left to the final layback corner (some people find getting into this the crux), then swarm up the crack to the belay on One Step..
4) 4b, 15m. Move up and right to just left of the flake of One Step in the Clouds and make thin moves up the wall to a memorable mantelshelf to gain a large ledge. © Rockfax

Ticklists

Hard Rock, The Tremadog 'V's', North Wales Rock Graded List, Full of Myself - Johnny's Book namecheck, ROCKFAX Style Top 50: North Wales, CLIMB Mag's Top 100 routes in Britain, North Wales 100 Classic Climbs, ROCKFAX - Top 50 North Wales Climbs, Ultimate E2 ticklist, Alex's Wales ticklist, Bangor BUMS Uni-Life Ticklist, Tick List for 2015/2016, AMC Uni Ticklist, MUMC Ticklist, ICAS Climbing Club, Joe Browns Shops 50th Anniversary Celebration Routes List, The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), "A Graded List of a Few Welsh Climbs" Aka ROGER'S LIST, Caelan visits, Extreme 2018, Tremadog 2018/2019, UK Holiday Plans, E is for Easy... Right?, George's Ultimate Easy to Mid Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist, Hard Rock 2020, Definitive *** Tremadog, Best of the rest and the ones that got away, May Trip Target List, Big Boy Pants, Hard Rock, Hard Rock & Other Classics

Feedback

User Date Notes
TwofoZeus 24 Sep, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: The P2-P3 belay has good in situ gear and we left a blue DMM nut (left by another team?) for the anchor.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The P2-P3 belay has good in situ gear and we left a blue DMM nut (left by another team?) for the anchor.
benrhyd 19 Jun, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Worth being careful with the smaller spike to the right of the main one at the first stance, sounds a bit wobbly and not quite as good as it appears at first
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Worth being careful with the smaller spike to the right of the main one at the first stance, sounds a bit wobbly and not quite as good as it appears at first

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High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 151
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 147
Votes cast 144
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
DNF
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest

Jelly Roll

Grade: E2 5b ***
(Clogwyn Du'r Arddu (Cloggy))