Start below the groove/chimney as for Daddy Cool.
1) 4a, 25m. Move up the left side of the groove and then step right across its top to the base of the vegetated slab. Climb this to belay at its top as for Merlin Direct.
2) 4a, 18m. Traverse left across the top of the slab to the corner. Move out to a crack and climb this with care to a tree belay below two grooves.
3) 4a, 21m. The right-hand groove is tricky. Finish up and left. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Start as for Heartbreak Hotel but trend rightwards across the newly cleaned slab to Merlin stance. Traverse left to belay above first tree. Brilliant, unlikely climbing to the top, ace route. Don’t worry about blocks on top pitch these are no worse than any others here!
A J J Moula, D Thomas 08/Mar/1952.
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