Rockfax Description
The route breaches the impressive roof just left of Barbarian. Start by the ladder.
1) 5c, 27m From the top of the ladder, move onto the top of a pinnacle. Head left up the slab and move up again to a small ledge. Move up and slightly right to a small tree then go right to the base of a slim groove. Climb this and move left at the top. Continue direct to the tree belay of Scratch.
2) 6a, 25m. Move left onto the slab and climb up to above a small overlap. Head up and left across the slab leading to the large roof. Make a testing pull up a thin crack around the roof and finish up the thin crack. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Pitch 2, 60ft (about). Climb the corner of Scratch until it is possible to cross the arete to gain the base of the slab to the left. Climb the slab to a ledge directly below the crack that breaches the overhang. Establish good finger jams as far above the lip as possible and then, cut loose! Climbing the initial and overhanging part of the groove proves to be the crux and not being afraid of getting your knees involved will at least get you started! Reasonably safe, but 'far out'. (From user Motfoanrg, 2018.)
P. Gomersall Apr/1977.
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Grade: E3 5c ***
(Cadair Idris - Penygadair)