UKC

75m, 5 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A popular route in a good position. Start at the base of a groove with 'PMP' etched on it.
1) 27m. Climb the groove for 4m, move right and climb the arete to a tree (possible belay). Continue slightly to the right up the next groove above a ledge to another tree in a bay.
2) 10m. Traverse right across the slab to belay in a corner left of the nose.
3) 4a, 30m. Step right onto a nose of rock. Climb round the right-hand side of the nose which leads to the base of the upper slab (possible belay). Climb the slab then step right to a ledge. Scramble off above. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Update, Apr 21 (Mike Doodle):
Update to clarify the start (to help those that may be reading this at base of Pant Ifan trying to work it out...!). The Rockfax description here differs from the 2010 CC guide for the description of PMP. In summary, there are two starts:
1) Left hand start. As per Rockfax description here. PMP scratched on rock. The original way. Easy, passing some trees. 2 pitches. Described in CC guide as first two pitches of Borchgrevinck then into PMP. (This is also a separate logbook entry on here "Borchgrevinck / Poor Man's Peuterey" which is the same.)
2) Right hand start. As per CC guide's description for PMP. A much better start but more technical. Starts at rock buttress about 15m to R of ‘PMP scratch’ and aims towards a triangular overhang at about 20m, before stepping R into a groove, up this then hard left along a juggy flake to a ledge with a tree at base of the big slab. 2 pitches. This start has been overgrown in the past but is currently clean (2021).

Ticklists

North Wales Rock Graded List, ROCKFAX - Top 50 North Wales Climbs, Best Multi-pitch Severe and Hard Severe, AMC Uni Ticklist, North wales road to ruins HVS, The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), North Wales Super Summer Solo Ticklist, "A Graded List of a Few Welsh Climbs" Aka ROGER'S LIST, Michelle's crack ticklist, George's Ultimate Easy to Mid-Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist, Definitive *** Tremadog

Feedback

User Date Notes
Evak 25 Sep, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: I felt that the pitch 1 was harder than a pitch 3.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I felt that the pitch 1 was harder than a pitch 3.
rosatb 19 Jun, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Led p2
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Led p2
MisterCorn 13 May, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Important UKC and the 2010 CC guide book have "Borchgrevinck / Poor Man's Peuterey" and "Poor Man's Peuterey" as described. However the scratched PMP is at the bottom of "Borchgrevinck / Poor Man's Peuterey" which was the original "Poor Man's Peuterey" and the one that 90+% of people climb.
Show beta
βeta: Important UKC and the 2010 CC guide book have "Borchgrevinck / Poor Man's Peuterey" and "Poor Man's Peuterey" as described. However the scratched PMP is at the bottom of "Borchgrevinck / Poor Man's Peuterey" which was the original "Poor Man's Peuterey" and the one that 90+% of people climb.
Bob M 13 Apr, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Based on the ordering of the routes, and the number of stars, this should be the route described as Poor Man's Peuterey in the CC guide. It starts (confusingly) about 15m right of where PMP is scratched on the rock.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Based on the ordering of the routes, and the number of stars, this should be the route described as Poor Man's Peuterey in the CC guide. It starts (confusingly) about 15m right of where PMP is scratched on the rock.

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Gambit Climb

Grade: S ***
(Clogwyn y Ddysgl)
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