UKC

12m.

Rockfax Description
One of the finest grit experiences. A tricky start gains a flake in the arete. This leads to a break, which needs packing with cams, before the tasty finishing moves. Well worth attempting as a true ground-up, on-sight since commitment on the final moves will be rewarded with either success or flight-time. © Rockfax

FA. John Allen 1976.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit: Top 50, ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Good E4s, Froggatt to Black Rocks (BMC) - The Grade List, The Peak: Past and Present, World Graded List, Peak Rock/12/The New Golden Age, 50 of the Best, Ultimate E4 ticklist, James' Winter Grit ticklist, The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), Rockfax Eastern Grit (2015) Top 50, The Froggatt to Black Rocks 3 Star Pilgrimage, Definitive *** Peak Grit, Rockfax Peak Gritstone East (2001) Top 50, Extreme 2018, Classic Lobs, Definitive Eastern Grit top 50- 2001, 2006 and 2015 editions, John Allen (gritstone) megamix, Peak District Grit Graded List, Peak District Grit (2020) *** List, crimperE6, Sheff, Big trad grit list, Curbar Your Enthusiasm

Feedback

User Date Notes
Daniel Grout 30 Mar Show βeta
βeta: Rory had a bash and came off after a foot slip on the crux to take the classic whipper. Pulled the ropes and sent on preplaced, minus his cam that ripped
βeta?
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βeta: Rory had a bash and came off after a foot slip on the crux to take the classic whipper. Pulled the ropes and sent on preplaced, minus his cam that ripped
Fiend 13 Mar, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Does what it says on the tin. Excellent line, excellent climbing, very committing. Lower crux is pretty easy....top crux is not that hard but feels highly unnerving at first. Took me a very, very long time to get used to the situation. Don't know about the wrong hand business, the hand I got in was the only one I could and it worked fine!
βeta?
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βeta: Does what it says on the tin. Excellent line, excellent climbing, very committing. Lower crux is pretty easy....top crux is not that hard but feels highly unnerving at first. Took me a very, very long time to get used to the situation. Don't know about the wrong hand business, the hand I got in was the only one I could and it worked fine!
Ropeboy 18 Nov, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: The low crux is definately the harder of the two cruxes. The top crux is not too hard just feels very commiting but the gear is good and by your feet.
βeta?
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βeta: The low crux is definately the harder of the two cruxes. The top crux is not too hard just feels very commiting but the gear is good and by your feet.
UKB Shark 28 Sep, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: If you get the sequence wrong its not too bad to swap hands in the pocket as long as you don't panic.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: If you get the sequence wrong its not too bad to swap hands in the pocket as long as you don't panic.
Nige M 27 Oct, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Easy to get in a twist if you get the hand sequence wrong on the runout - see photo in 1985 Derwent Grit guide for example.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Easy to get in a twist if you get the hand sequence wrong on the runout - see photo in 1985 Derwent Grit guide for example.

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
Votes cast 55
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 57
Votes cast 53
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Redpoint
DNF
Ground Up
Flashed (β)
Repeated
Not Set
Route of Interest

Wee Doris

Grade: E4 5c ***
(Stoney Middleton)
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