UKC

46m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A very worthwhile top pitch up the huge right-leaning corner. High in the grade. Start as for Gates of Eden.
1) 4a, 21m. Climb Gates of Eden until it is possible to work rightwards to a stance at the base of the corner.
2) 5a, 25m. Climb the long, wide corner-crack with the crux near the top. © Rockfax

Ticklists

The Daddyhole Project , West Country Climbs , Moving to Devon , South West Climbs - Pat Littlejohn (1st Ed.) , South Devon Stars: Diff - HVS , The Devonman Cometh - Living in Exeter Top200. , The South Devon Time Machine (Part I)

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User Date Notes
RB1 2 Jul, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: There is a large loose flake about a 3rd of the way up the 2nd pitch. If this comes off the belayer would be directly below. Probably worth trundling if there’s no one around at the base of the crag
βeta?
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βeta: There is a large loose flake about a 3rd of the way up the 2nd pitch. If this comes off the belayer would be directly below. Probably worth trundling if there’s no one around at the base of the crag
garygecko 7 Jul, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: ok but limited belay options at top. tunnel down the earthy shute on the left to locate the ab station above GoE
βeta?
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βeta: ok but limited belay options at top. tunnel down the earthy shute on the left to locate the ab station above GoE
petecallaghan 30 May, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: The top of the crag is very hard to access due to multiple felled trees and bushes. The abseil above Triton is hidden by dead trees
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The top of the crag is very hard to access due to multiple felled trees and bushes. The abseil above Triton is hidden by dead trees

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 67
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 58
Votes cast 53
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
Gates of Eden

Grade: VS 5a ***
(Daddyhole Main Cliff)

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