UKC Logbook - 'Direct Route'

74m, 4 pitches.

Rockfax Description
One for the well-rounded VS leader, although some will find the entrance to the final pitch somewhat baffling.
1) 4a, 20m. From the toe, scramble past the twin pinnacles and head up for 10m. Traverse left to belay as for Lorraine.
2) 4b, 25m. Go up and right, passing a blunt rib, to reach a crack leading to the base of a shallow groove. Climb this into the groove and follow it to a good belay in a bay.
3) 4c, 15m. Move up right to a diagonal crack. Make the infamous and enjoyable hand-traverse along this to a step right. Head up to cracks and onto a large ledge and flake/bollard belay.
4) 5b, 18m. Traverse left to the well-polished start of the corner. A desperate move off the ledge allows access to the easier flake-cracks and a corner above. © Rockfax

C.Kirkus, J.Dodd 22/Jun/1930.

Ticklists

The 100 Best UK VS routes? , Classic Rock Climbs of Great Britain by Bill Birkett , North Wales Rock Graded List , North Wales 100 Classic Climbs , ROCKFAX - Top 50 North Wales Climbs , The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , 100 Best Wales Mid Grade Climbs , "A Graded List of a Few Welsh Climbs" Aka ROGER'S LIST , Michelle's crack ticklist , UK Holiday Plans , Pre-MIA Wishlist , The climbs of Menlove Edwards and Colin Kirkus , George's Ultimate Easy to Mid-Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist , Libby Peter's VS Hit List , Colin Kirkus' routes , UK smearing corners , Definitive *** Llanberis , Target Routes 2019/2020 , May Trip Target List , Hard Rock & Other Classics , Welsh Roadtrip , Joes North Wales VS spaff attack , ROCKFAX TOP 50s upto e3

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User	Date		Notes
GwionLlew1	6 Jun	Show βeta βeta: 2&4 last pitch amazing	βeta?
Show beta βeta: 2&4 last pitch amazing
Steve Bartle	26 May	Show βeta βeta: IGNORE Rockfax saying to \"traverse left\" to the first belay. It\'s literally a step left	βeta?
Show beta βeta: IGNORE Rockfax saying to "traverse left" to the first belay. It's literally a step left
Simonroberts1985	21 May	Show βeta βeta: I led pitches 2 and 4, pitch 2 was good fun, not the best gear thou, pitch 4 was the highlight of the day, probably the best VS pitch I have done, great jamming crack, get them feet in and you will smash it!
Show beta βeta: I led pitches 2 and 4, pitch 2 was good fun, not the best gear thou, pitch 4 was the highlight of the day, probably the best VS pitch I have done, great jamming crack, get them feet in and you will smash it!
Crimps@67	18 May	Show βeta βeta: Topped out direct route in the dark last night, managed to get our rope stuck on the abseil in the east gulley. Didn’t have a torch handy so left them in situ and bailed off. Didn’t manage to get up there before work this morning but if anyone comes across them, please could you leave them at the bottom of the gulley and I will retrieve them this evening! Word of warning - there’s been a major rock fall close to the gulley, would recommend the alternative west gulley descent instead!	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Topped out direct route in the dark last night, managed to get our rope stuck on the abseil in the east gulley. Didn’t have a torch handy so left them in situ and bailed off. Didn’t manage to get up there before work this morning but if anyone comes across them, please could you leave them at the bottom of the gulley and I will retrieve them this evening! Word of warning - there’s been a major rock fall close to the gulley, would recommend the alternative west gulley descent instead!
PaulJepson	16 Aug, 2022	Show βeta βeta: Description here for P2 seems to differ from the Ground Up guide. Rather than going direct into the groove, the GU description has you teeter leftwards up the ramp before making a delicate (i.e. unprotected) traverse back right to gain the groove. Exciting moves!	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Description here for P2 seems to differ from the Ground Up guide. Rather than going direct into the groove, the GU description has you teeter leftwards up the ramp before making a delicate (i.e. unprotected) traverse back right to gain the groove. Exciting moves!
C Witter	16 May, 2022	Show βeta βeta: Ha! There's no way that top pitch is less than HVS, but we all enjoy a good sandbag! :D	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Ha! There's no way that top pitch is less than HVS, but we all enjoy a good sandbag! :D
tradisrad	12 Jul, 2020	Show βeta βeta: 5b pitch is nails but not as engaging as the shit covered descent...
Show beta βeta: 5b pitch is nails but not as engaging as the shit covered descent...
NataliaK	27 Sep, 2019	Show βeta βeta: Awesome rout. Brilliant last pitch with many different ways you can move up on it.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Awesome rout. Brilliant last pitch with many different ways you can move up on it.
deejmonkey	11 Sep, 2019	Show βeta βeta: Pitch 4 felt more like HVS being slightly wet	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Pitch 4 felt more like HVS being slightly wet
tsmilton	1 Sep, 2019	Show βeta βeta: Can ab on a 30m rope down the eastern gully if down stacked	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Can ab on a 30m rope down the eastern gully if down stacked
cragpuppy	6 Jul, 2019	Show βeta βeta: Need 60m rope to abseil to ground level via the gully	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Need 60m rope to abseil to ground level via the gully
Rowan Page	2 Jul, 2019	Show βeta βeta: We had no problem linking first 2 pitches into 1 but belayed from just left of the pedestal start of diagonal, at the top of the short scramble. Belayer had a sling on a small blunt spike at the stance.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: We had no problem linking first 2 pitches into 1 but belayed from just left of the pedestal start of diagonal, at the top of the short scramble. Belayer had a sling on a small blunt spike at the stance.
cdpuk	29 Jun, 2019	Show βeta βeta: Pitch lengths suggest you can link P1+2 in 40m of rope. Had to start scrambling a few metres with 50m ropes.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Pitch lengths suggest you can link P1+2 in 40m of rope. Had to start scrambling a few metres with 50m ropes.
David Staples	30 May, 2016	Show βeta βeta: Very stiff for VS (Should be upgraded???) for that last pitch - ankle breaking fall if you blow the 5b move on the last pitch. Otherwise if you are climbing well it is an amazing route.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Very stiff for VS (Should be upgraded???) for that last pitch - ankle breaking fall if you blow the 5b move on the last pitch. Otherwise if you are climbing well it is an amazing route.