Rockfax Description
One for the well-rounded VS leader, although some will find the entrance to the final pitch somewhat baffling.
1) 4a, 20m. From the toe, scramble past the twin pinnacles and head up for 10m. Traverse left to belay as for Lorraine.
2) 4b, 25m. Go up and right, passing a blunt rib, to reach a crack leading to the base of a shallow groove. Climb this into the groove and follow it to a good belay in a bay.
3) 4c, 15m. Move up right to a diagonal crack. Make the infamous and enjoyable hand-traverse along this to a step right. Head up to cracks and onto a large ledge and flake/bollard belay.
4) 5b, 18m. Traverse left to the well-polished start of the corner. A desperate move off the ledge allows access to the easier flake-cracks and a corner above. © Rockfax
C.Kirkus, J.Dodd 22/Jun/1930.
Ticklists
The 100 Best UK VS routes? , Classic Rock Climbs of Great Britain by Bill Birkett , North Wales Rock Graded List , North Wales 100 Classic Climbs , ROCKFAX - Top 50 North Wales Climbs , The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , 100 Best Wales Mid Grade Climbs , "A Graded List of a Few Welsh Climbs" Aka ROGER'S LIST , Michelle's crack ticklist , UK Holiday Plans , Pre-MIA Wishlist , The climbs of Menlove Edwards and Colin Kirkus , George's Ultimate Easy to Mid-Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist , Libby Peter's VS Hit List , Colin Kirkus' routes , UK smearing corners , Definitive *** Llanberis , Target Routes 2019/2020 , May Trip Target List , Hard Rock & Other Classics , Welsh Roadtrip , Joes North Wales VS spaff attack , ROCKFAX TOP 50s upto e3
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| PaulJepson | 16 Aug, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: Description here for P2 seems to differ from the Ground Up guide. Rather than going direct into the groove, the GU description has you teeter leftwards up the ramp before making a delicate (i.e. unprotected) traverse back right to gain the groove. Exciting moves! | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Description here for P2 seems to differ from the Ground Up guide. Rather than going direct into the groove, the GU description has you teeter leftwards up the ramp before making a delicate (i.e. unprotected) traverse back right to gain the groove. Exciting moves! |
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| C Witter | 16 May, 2022 |
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βeta: Ha! There's no way that top pitch is less than HVS, but we all enjoy a good sandbag! :D | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Ha! There's no way that top pitch is less than HVS, but we all enjoy a good sandbag! :D |
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| tradisrad | 12 Jul, 2020 |
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βeta: 5b pitch is nails but not as engaging as the shit covered descent... | ||
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βeta: 5b pitch is nails but not as engaging as the shit covered descent... |
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| NataliaK | 27 Sep, 2019 |
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βeta: Awesome rout. Brilliant last pitch with many different ways you can move up on it. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Awesome rout. Brilliant last pitch with many different ways you can move up on it. |
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| deejmonkey | 11 Sep, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: Pitch 4 felt more like HVS being slightly wet | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Pitch 4 felt more like HVS being slightly wet |
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| tsmilton | 1 Sep, 2019 |
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βeta: Can ab on a 30m rope down the eastern gully if down stacked | βeta? | |
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βeta: Can ab on a 30m rope down the eastern gully if down stacked |
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| cragpuppy | 6 Jul, 2019 |
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βeta: Need 60m rope to abseil to ground level via the gully | βeta? | |
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βeta: Need 60m rope to abseil to ground level via the gully |
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| Rowan Page | 2 Jul, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: We had no problem linking first 2 pitches into 1 but belayed from just left of the pedestal start of diagonal, at the top of the short scramble. Belayer had a sling on a small blunt spike at the stance. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: We had no problem linking first 2 pitches into 1 but belayed from just left of the pedestal start of diagonal, at the top of the short scramble. Belayer had a sling on a small blunt spike at the stance. |
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| cdpuk | 29 Jun, 2019 |
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βeta: Pitch lengths suggest you can link P1+2 in 40m of rope. Had to start scrambling a few metres with 50m ropes. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Pitch lengths suggest you can link P1+2 in 40m of rope. Had to start scrambling a few metres with 50m ropes. |
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| David Staples | 30 May, 2016 |
Show βeta
βeta: Very stiff for VS (Should be upgraded???) for that last pitch - ankle breaking fall if you blow the 5b move on the last pitch. Otherwise if you are climbing well it is an amazing route. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Very stiff for VS (Should be upgraded???) for that last pitch - ankle breaking fall if you blow the 5b move on the last pitch. Otherwise if you are climbing well it is an amazing route. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Dinas Mot
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Lavaredo
Grade: VS 5a ***
(Carreg Alltrem)