UKC

74m, 4 pitches.

Rockfax Description
One for the well-rounded VS leader, although some will find the entrance to the final pitch somewhat baffling.
1) 4a, 20m. From the toe, scramble past the twin pinnacles and head up for 10m. Traverse left to belay as for Lorraine.
2) 4b, 25m. Go up and right, passing a blunt rib, to reach a crack leading to the base of a shallow groove. Climb this into the groove and follow it to a good belay in a bay.
3) 4c, 15m. Move up right to a diagonal crack. Make the infamous and enjoyable hand-traverse along this to a step right. Head up to cracks and onto a large ledge and flake/bollard belay.
4) 5b, 18m. Traverse left to the well-polished start of the corner. A desperate move off the ledge allows access to the easier flake-cracks and a corner above. © Rockfax

C.Kirkus, J.Dodd 22/Jun/1930.

Ticklists

The 100 Best UK VS routes? , Classic Rock Climbs of Great Britain by Bill Birkett , North Wales Rock Graded List , North Wales 100 Classic Climbs , ROCKFAX - Top 50 North Wales Climbs , The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , 100 Best Wales Mid Grade Climbs , "A Graded List of a Few Welsh Climbs" Aka ROGER'S LIST , Michelle's crack ticklist , UK Holiday Plans , Pre-MIA Wishlist , The climbs of Menlove Edwards and Colin Kirkus , George's Ultimate Easy to Mid-Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist , Libby Peter's VS Hit List , Colin Kirkus' routes , UK smearing corners , Definitive *** Llanberis , Target Routes 2019/2020 , May Trip Target List , Hard Rock & Other Classics , Welsh Roadtrip , Joes North Wales VS spaff attack , ROCKFAX TOP 50s upto e3 , Routes for MCI , 3 Star - North Wales HS - HVS , N Wales VS longlist

Feedback

User Date Notes
Steve Bartle 26 May, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: IGNORE Rockfax saying to \"traverse left\" to the first belay. It\'s literally a step left
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: IGNORE Rockfax saying to "traverse left" to the first belay. It's literally a step left
Simonroberts1985 21 May, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: I led pitches 2 and 4, pitch 2 was good fun, not the best gear thou, pitch 4 was the highlight of the day, probably the best VS pitch I have done, great jamming crack, get them feet in and you will smash it!
Show beta
βeta: I led pitches 2 and 4, pitch 2 was good fun, not the best gear thou, pitch 4 was the highlight of the day, probably the best VS pitch I have done, great jamming crack, get them feet in and you will smash it!
Crimps@67 18 May, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Topped out direct route in the dark last night, managed to get our rope stuck on the abseil in the east gulley. Didn’t have a torch handy so left them in situ and bailed off. Didn’t manage to get up there before work this morning but if anyone comes across them, please could you leave them at the bottom of the gulley and I will retrieve them this evening! Word of warning - there’s been a major rock fall close to the gulley, would recommend the alternative west gulley descent instead!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Topped out direct route in the dark last night, managed to get our rope stuck on the abseil in the east gulley. Didn’t have a torch handy so left them in situ and bailed off. Didn’t manage to get up there before work this morning but if anyone comes across them, please could you leave them at the bottom of the gulley and I will retrieve them this evening! Word of warning - there’s been a major rock fall close to the gulley, would recommend the alternative west gulley descent instead!
PaulJepson 16 Aug, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Description here for P2 seems to differ from the Ground Up guide. Rather than going direct into the groove, the GU description has you teeter leftwards up the ramp before making a delicate (i.e. unprotected) traverse back right to gain the groove. Exciting moves!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Description here for P2 seems to differ from the Ground Up guide. Rather than going direct into the groove, the GU description has you teeter leftwards up the ramp before making a delicate (i.e. unprotected) traverse back right to gain the groove. Exciting moves!
C Witter 16 May, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Ha! There's no way that top pitch is less than HVS, but we all enjoy a good sandbag! :D
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Ha! There's no way that top pitch is less than HVS, but we all enjoy a good sandbag! :D
tradisrad 12 Jul, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: 5b pitch is nails but not as engaging as the shit covered descent...
Show beta
βeta: 5b pitch is nails but not as engaging as the shit covered descent...
NataliaK 27 Sep, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Awesome rout. Brilliant last pitch with many different ways you can move up on it.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Awesome rout. Brilliant last pitch with many different ways you can move up on it.
deejmonkey 11 Sep, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Pitch 4 felt more like HVS being slightly wet
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Pitch 4 felt more like HVS being slightly wet
tsmilton 1 Sep, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Can ab on a 30m rope down the eastern gully if down stacked
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Can ab on a 30m rope down the eastern gully if down stacked
cragpuppy 6 Jul, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Need 60m rope to abseil to ground level via the gully
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Need 60m rope to abseil to ground level via the gully
Rowman Pughe 2 Jul, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: We had no problem linking first 2 pitches into 1 but belayed from just left of the pedestal start of diagonal, at the top of the short scramble. Belayer had a sling on a small blunt spike at the stance.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: We had no problem linking first 2 pitches into 1 but belayed from just left of the pedestal start of diagonal, at the top of the short scramble. Belayer had a sling on a small blunt spike at the stance.
cdpuk 29 Jun, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Pitch lengths suggest you can link P1+2 in 40m of rope. Had to start scrambling a few metres with 50m ropes.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Pitch lengths suggest you can link P1+2 in 40m of rope. Had to start scrambling a few metres with 50m ropes.
David Staples 30 May, 2016 Show βeta
βeta: Very stiff for VS (Should be upgraded???) for that last pitch - ankle breaking fall if you blow the 5b move on the last pitch. Otherwise if you are climbing well it is an amazing route.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Very stiff for VS (Should be upgraded???) for that last pitch - ankle breaking fall if you blow the 5b move on the last pitch. Otherwise if you are climbing well it is an amazing route.

Logged Ascents

1889 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Dinas Mot

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 397 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 207
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 192
Votes cast 181
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
DNF
Ground Up
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
Sabre Cut

Grade: VS 4c ***
(Dinas Cromlech)

Loading Notifications...