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25m.

Rockfax Description
A fine route which is usually climbed by its original direct start, the easier (HVS 5b ) left-hand version from the gully is equally worthwhile. Climb the groove to the roof, then traverse left to the finger-crack splitting the nose. Layback up to reach the crest of the buttress above. Finish up this, trending slightly right in a great position. © Rockfax

FA. Peter Biven 1956.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs, Froggatt to Black Rocks (BMC) - The Grade List, World Graded List, Peak Rock/7/8/Biven-Peck Partnership/1950's a Developing Decade, The Froggatt to Black Rocks 3 Star Pilgrimage, Definitive *** Peak Grit, Peak District Grit Graded List

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User Date Notes
thebigfriendlymoose 8 May, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Presumably the E1 5c grade is for coming in from the RHS roof crack on undercuts / small crimps? A tad eliminate but more than made up for by the lovely barndoor move to gain the jugs around the corner.
βeta?
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βeta: Presumably the E1 5c grade is for coming in from the RHS roof crack on undercuts / small crimps? A tad eliminate but more than made up for by the lovely barndoor move to gain the jugs around the corner.
Ropeboy 7 Nov, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Hard climbing (poor on footholds) lead to the meat of route. Good route which ever start you take.
βeta?
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βeta: Hard climbing (poor on footholds) lead to the meat of route. Good route which ever start you take.
MNA123 28 Feb, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Hard, climbed it on a top rope, which i'm glad about, cause i wouldn't be writting this if i hadn't. Pumpy, i found the found the start the hardest bit, as i'm short and it's quite reachy, but theres a hard move up near the top as well.
βeta?
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βeta: Hard, climbed it on a top rope, which i'm glad about, cause i wouldn't be writting this if i hadn't. Pumpy, i found the found the start the hardest bit, as i'm short and it's quite reachy, but theres a hard move up near the top as well.
Duncan I 2 Sep, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: There's nothing wrong with the "cop-out moves", it's still a fine route. Having done both starts, you still get 10 m of very sustained and wobbly 5b with some quite worrying moves so three-stars whichever way. The Direct Start is a stunner though.
βeta?
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βeta: There's nothing wrong with the "cop-out moves", it's still a fine route. Having done both starts, you still get 10 m of very sustained and wobbly 5b with some quite worrying moves so three-stars whichever way. The Direct Start is a stunner though.

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Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 55
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 52
Votes cast 54
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Soloed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Repeated
DNF
Ground Up
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest

Millsom's Minion

Grade: E1 5b ***
(Stanage Plantation)