A gem of a route. It is best done in one pitch, but can be split either at the large break at 20m to reduce rope drag, or right of the flake almost in line with the Debauchery stance (in Perseus). Start below the prominent groove. Climb the groove to a ledge below the bulge. Pull through the bulge on the left and follow the crack above until a step right gains another crack. Continue past Debauchery into another groove on the left. Continue up the flake above to a position below the big old bolt and thread. Clip these then step left and tackle the left-facing groove with a stretch for the break. Finish up the steep groove. Alternatively climb past the bolt at a polished E3 6a as for Andromeda. © Rockfax
FFA. Pete Livesey in 1974. FA. Oliver Woolcock, Clive Rowland, Paul Nunn 1963. The current bolt was placed by Chris Craggs, nearly 20 years ago!.
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