Restricted Access
High Tor is managed by Derbyshire Dales District Council (DDDC) and there is a regular wardening service in operation. There are no major access problems at High Tor, but climbers should take careful note of the following agreed guidelines:
- With the exception of the tree at the top of Castellan, do not abseil from trees at the top.
- Please walk down using the well established paths and don't cut corners.
- When belaying above Darius/Robert Brown please use natural belays, stakes or in-situ pegs rather than the safety sign or the fence - the area is a popular look-out spot with the general public and ropes can cause a trip hazard.
- Do not cut or prune crag top shrubs or trees as these are relied on as a natural barrier to keep visitors back from the edge
Seasonal Restrictions
Reason: Nesting Birds
High Tor is a SSSI of extremely high botanical value with some very rare grasses and plants located around the crag. Climbers are requested to be especially careful not to trample grass at the base of the crag and to stick to the established paths so as not to damage plants on the wooded approaches.
Rockfax Description
Well-named, the line encompasses some of the best moves and rock on the Tor. While pitch 1 has a sense of urgency about it, pitch 2 probably has the hardest move.
1) 6a, 24m. From the left-hand side of The Pillar move up (peg and bolt above) and traverse left to a semi-rest below flakes. A confident approach will see you up these and onward to a flake. Move across left to the Bastille stance.
2) 6a, 18m. Step down and left to join the slippy crux of Flaky Wall. Continue up the cracks of Supersonic then move left, past a rest, up a ramp to the arete (hidden peg). A hard move gains Original Route. Climb up this to the belay. Abseil or...
3) 5c, 30m. For the completionist, traverse the upper break leftwards across Darius to join Robert Brown to finish. © Rockfax
FA. Arnis Strapcans, Gorden Jenkin 1980.
Ticklists
The High Tor Top Ten , World Graded List , Definitive *** Peak Lime , It's "D" Day at High Tor , The Festival Of Shite , Peak Traverses
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Misha | 27 Aug, 2024 |
Show βeta
βeta: Dug out the belay crack - good black offset, decent brass offset, so-so yellow and red totems. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Dug out the belay crack - good black offset, decent brass offset, so-so yellow and red totems. |
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| Misha | 27 Aug, 2024 |
Show βeta
βeta: Agree re starting more on the right, hand traversing left for a few moves before a pull up below a peg. This still feels goey as the gear consists of the two smallest dragonflies and the pull up isn’t trivial. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Agree re starting more on the right, hand traversing left for a few moves before a pull up below a peg. This still feels goey as the gear consists of the two smallest dragonflies and the pull up isn’t trivial. |
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| shark | 3 Jul, 2024 |
Show βeta
βeta: More sensible IMO to start further right than generally described beneath the route “Pillar” and shuffle left along the foot ledge rather than go over the small bulge on poor rock as generally described | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: More sensible IMO to start further right than generally described beneath the route “Pillar” and shuffle left along the foot ledge rather than go over the small bulge on poor rock as generally described |
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| phatlad | 19 Jul, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: E4, value for it like. But still E4 - definitely the best of the traverse lines (well I haven't done the girdle yet) | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: E4, value for it like. But still E4 - definitely the best of the traverse lines (well I haven't done the girdle yet) |
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| Graham Hoey | 28 Feb, 2002 |
Show βeta
βeta: The starting moves are slightly exciting, a taste of things to come. The abseil chains from the Original Route ledge are removed from time to time! | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: The starting moves are slightly exciting, a taste of things to come. The abseil chains from the Original Route ledge are removed from time to time! |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for High Tor
Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks
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Nectar
Grade: E4 6b ***
(Stanage North)