Restricted Access
High Tor is managed by Derbyshire Dales District Council (DDDC) and there is a regular wardening service in operation. There are no major access problems at High Tor, but climbers should take careful note of the following agreed guidelines:
- With the exception of the tree at the top of Castellan, do not abseil from trees at the top.
- Please walk down using the well established paths and don't cut corners.
- When belaying above Darius/Robert Brown please use natural belays, stakes or in-situ pegs rather than the safety sign or the fence - the area is a popular look-out spot with the general public and ropes can cause a trip hazard.
- Do not cut or prune crag top shrubs or trees as these are relied on as a natural barrier to keep visitors back from the edge
Seasonal Restrictions
Reason: Nesting Birds
High Tor is a SSSI of extremely high botanical value with some very rare grasses and plants located around the crag. Climbers are requested to be especially careful not to trample grass at the base of the crag and to stick to the established paths so as not to damage plants on the wooded approaches.
Rockfax Description
A good hard route lacking the big feel of the classics of the Main Face, but requiring a deal of care over the placing of protection and handling of the rock, especially towards the finish. Follow the wall past old (and very short) pegs to the roof. Move left then pull over to a good, booming flake. Climb up until you can traverse right to a peg then move up to a bulge (peg). Take a breather before making a hard move right and back left to reach a ledge. Move left into the gully. Tree belay. © Rockfax
FFA. Jim Moran, Al Evans 1977. FA.Brian Moore, Bruce Andrew 1970..
Ticklists
Peak Rock/13/The Limestone Revolution
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Stoney Boy | 21 Aug, 2024 |
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βeta: 3 pegs are missing from the route. | βeta? | |
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βeta: 3 pegs are missing from the route. |
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| Stoney Boy | 30 Aug, 2020 |
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βeta: Bottom peg has rusted way completely. I’d be careful setting off up this onsite.... | ||
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βeta: Bottom peg has rusted way completely. I’d be careful setting off up this onsite.... |
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| Al Evans | 15 Sep, 2006 |
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βeta: Unless the pegs have been replaced take care, I placed them for Jim and what looks like solid angles in up to the hilt are actually sawn off to 1 inch long so they did not bottom. As Jim led one just fell out after he had moved past it and rattled down the rope. O expect friends would be better fitted inti the pockets these days. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Unless the pegs have been replaced take care, I placed them for Jim and what looks like solid angles in up to the hilt are actually sawn off to 1 inch long so they did not bottom. As Jim led one just fell out after he had moved past it and rattled down the rope. O expect friends would be better fitted inti the pockets these days. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for High Tor
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Moon Crack
Grade: E5 6b ***
(Curbar Edge)