UKC

Rockfax Description
Along-time classic with the sheen to prove how well loved it has been. The first pitch is hideous in anything but dry conditions.
1) 38m. Climb the slippery scoop and at its top exit right. Quartz spangled rock leads left then right to a terrace.
2) 26m. Climb the groove and slab to more quartzy rock. Up this leftwards to a stance.
3) 16m. Climb the groove rightwards up the white highway to a stance in a corner.
4) 40m. Skip up the corner, which can be quite tricky in the wet. Wander up to the quartz region and continue on to belay on the ledges above the slabs. Added points for finding the heart belay. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
The obvious slab right of the Ordinary Route. The very slippery start can be avoided by the corner on the right or the wall on the left before coming back on route. Continue more or less straight upwards in 3, 4 or 5 pitches as desired following the quartz and avoiding straying left to the Ordinary Route or right onto Hope

Ticklists

Heather's Multipitch Climbs , North Wales 100 Classic Climbs , Snowdonia - long routes and classic climbs , The Long Routes , George's Ultimate Easy to Mid-Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist , Mountain Rock , Wales Multipitch , Slab Dreams , No you're a punter , Gwen Moffat: Space Below My Feet

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User Date Notes
nickcanute 2 Oct, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Memorable day for both me, Andy and the masturbating hiker we interrupted, who was hiding behind a rock close to where the way off leads left into the cwm.
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βeta: Memorable day for both me, Andy and the masturbating hiker we interrupted, who was hiding behind a rock close to where the way off leads left into the cwm.
liensiwel 3 Sep, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Wow. That's some first pitch for VDiff! The rest of the route is a lovely cruise up big holds and solid placements. Wonderful VDiff climbing. Pitch 3 was bone dry for us But, man, that first pitch! Aah, just noticed that CC Ogwen give the first pitch S 4b. That's about right.
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βeta: Wow. That's some first pitch for VDiff! The rest of the route is a lovely cruise up big holds and solid placements. Wonderful VDiff climbing. Pitch 3 was bone dry for us But, man, that first pitch! Aah, just noticed that CC Ogwen give the first pitch S 4b. That's about right.
Wizzy 16 Jul, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Better than hope
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βeta: Better than hope

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Idwal Slabs (aka Cwm Idwal)

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Voting
High S
Mid S
Low S
High HVD
Mid HVD
Low HVD
High VD
Mid VD
Low VD
Votes cast 102
Votes cast 96
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Bouldered
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
DNF
Ground Up
Redpoint
Dogged
Not Set
Route of Interest
Pencoed Pillar

Grade: HVD ***
(Cadair Idris - Penygadair)

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