UKC

Restricted Access

Accommodation details can be obtained from the Landmark Trust (Tel: 01628 825925) https://www.landmarktrust.org.uk/lundyisland/ . Please check in as a climber with the Lundy Warden on arrival for up to date access information on extended or lifted climbing restrictions, recent rockfall etc. Letting the Landmark Trust know you are a climber when you book your ferry and accommodation doesn't get this information through to the warden so drop in and say hello when you arrive.

A number of rockfalls have affected several crags along the west coast in recent years – please see the CC guidebook supplement for details on what has been affected.

Please do not place any additional abseil/belay stakes or abseil slings without first gaining permission from the Lundy Warden. The approaches to all the cliffs on the island can be safeguarded with enough rope and common sense. This is essential to maintaining a continued good relationship with the Warden and the Landmark Trust.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 31 March to 15 September

Reason: Nesting Birds

Restrictions on Lundy fall into three categories:

- Unrestricted (year round access)

- Restricted from 31 March - 14 August

- Restricted from 31 March - 15 September

Page numbers refer to the first page of each crag from the CC Lundy (2008) guidebook.

Restrictions are continually monitored by the Lundy Warden and team, but if you see any nesting birds within unrestricted areas, please report to the Warden. If birds fledge early or sites fail, the affected restrictions will be lifted once the warden has confirmed that the site(s) are vacant. Likewise, occasionally nesting may start later in the season requiring extension to the restricted period - always check RAD and with the Warden on arrival for any updates to the restrictions. 

Unrestricted Routes (Year-round Access) 

The Devil’s Slide Area: The Devil’s Slide to The Back of the Slide (pp. 251-257) inclusive 

The East Coast: The Halfway Buttress to The Knight Templar Rocks (pp. 356-359) inclusive 

Restricted Routes (Closed 31 Mar - 14 Aug) 

The South Coast: Damocles Buttress to Kistvaen Buttress (pp. 29-31) inclusive 

The Devil’s Limekiln Area: Hidden Zawn to Leaning Buttress (pp. 33-48) inclusive 

Montagu Steps Area: Weird Wall to Celtic Buttress (pp. 49-60) inclusive 

Pilot’s Quay Area: Atlantic Buttress to Trawlerman’s Buttress (pp. 61-65) inclusive 

Old Light Area: The Old Light Cliff to Two Legged Buttress (pp. 66-88) inclusive 

Alpine Buttress Area: Wolfman Jack Wall to Sunset Promontory (pp. 91-99) inclusive 

Landing Craft Bay: First Buttress South to St Patrick’s Buttress (pp. 100-123) inclusive 

The Flying Buttress Area: Battery Cliff to Flying Buttress Main Cliff (pp. 124-138) inclusive 

Dead Cow Point Area: Beef Buttress to Dead Cow Point (pp. 142-145) inclusive 

Needle Rock Area: The Earthquake to Needle Rock (pp. 153-158) inclusive

Jenny’s Cove: The Pyramid Cliff (pp. 191-194) inclusive 

Beaufort Buttress Area: Picnic Bay Cliff to Beaufort Buttress (pp. 195-207) inclusive 

Grand Falls Zawn Area: Double Headed Zawn to St Mark’s Stone (pp. 208-227) inclusive 

Threequarter Wall Area: Black Bottom Buttress to Ten Foot Zawn (pp. 232-239) inclusive 

The Devil’s Slide Area: St James’s Stone to Starship Zawn (pp. 240-249) & Fluted Face (pp. 259-261) 

Squires View Zawn: Benson’s Buttress to The Fortress (pp. 262-281) inclusive 

Torrey Canyon Bay: St John’s Stone to Torrey Canyon Cliff (pp.282-290) inclusive 

Seal Slab Area: Marisco Walls to Short Story Zawn (pp. 292-308) inclusive 

Arch Zawn Area: Arch Zawn to Long Roost Ridge (pp. 309-323) inclusive 

North Light Area: North West Point to The Constable (pp. 345-353) inclusive 

The East Coast: The Quarries (p. 354) 

Extended Restrictions (Closed 31 Mar - 15 Sep) 

The Flying Buttress Area: Black Jack Zawn to Jemima Buttress (pp. 138-141) inclusive 

Dead Cow Point Area: Fighter Buttress to Banana Buttress (pp. 145-151) inclusive 

Needle Rock Area: The Punchbowl Cliffs (pp. 158-161) 

Jenny’s Cove: The Devil’s Tower to Pathfinder Slabs (pp. 162-191) inclusive 

Threequarter Wall Area: Big Zawn (p. 230) 

Heron Zawn Area: Heron Zawn to Cormorant Zawn (pp. 328-335) inclusive 

North Light Area: Storm Zawn to The North Light Cliffs (pp. 336-345) inclusive 

The East Coast: Gannet’s Buttress to Gannet’s Rock (pp. 360-362) inclusive

These restrictions are subject to constant review and it is important that climbers contact the Warden for updates before your visit or on arrival to the Island.

A copy of the 2024 restrictions PDF is available for download in the File tab near the bottom of this page.

 

2 pitches. No description has been contributed for this climb.

F E R Cannings, J W A Kingston 19/Apr/1973.

Ticklists

Victim Of Mathematics' Ticklist of Extreme Justice , West Country Climbs , Ultimate E1 ticklist , Lundy 2016 , Lundy , South West Climbs - Pat Littlejohn (1st Ed.) , Lundy Bird Ban VS-E3 , South West in Extremis , Lundy Sept 24

Feedback

User Date Notes
slowmotion 6 Sep Show βeta
βeta: Crashy seas and sdmc send train
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Crashy seas and sdmc send train
JimOakleyAdventures 5 Sep Show βeta
βeta: Fun abseil 2hrs before LW. Crux move on P1 about 6m up just as your start heading right. 2nd pitch is more VS but fun
Show beta
βeta: Fun abseil 2hrs before LW. Crux move on P1 about 6m up just as your start heading right. 2nd pitch is more VS but fun
Tall Oak 27 Sep, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: It helps if one starts at the right start. Ended up taking my two buddies through a hellfire of a traverse. Started WAY left of Headline and had some ridiculous traverse. Maybe a new route? No pro so was a bold traverse on lead and second. No one capped their legs which was relief. If it is a new route, then the route is called "Dont Follow Matt, Ever". It was a cool route though. Led both parts. First pitch is the pitch however
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: It helps if one starts at the right start. Ended up taking my two buddies through a hellfire of a traverse. Started WAY left of Headline and had some ridiculous traverse. Maybe a new route? No pro so was a bold traverse on lead and second. No one capped their legs which was relief. If it is a new route, then the route is called "Dont Follow Matt, Ever". It was a cool route though. Led both parts. First pitch is the pitch however
Steve Long 29 Jun, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Massive tidal range in this zawn. At mid-incoming tide its simpler to abseil straight to the starting point (the big spike and ledges).
Show beta
βeta: Massive tidal range in this zawn. At mid-incoming tide its simpler to abseil straight to the starting point (the big spike and ledges).

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Lundy

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Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 23
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 21
Votes cast 22
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Repeated
Ground Up
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
Seventh Dread

Grade: E1 5b ***
(Berry Head - The Old Redoubt)

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