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26m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
1) 5b. An excellent finger-jamming pitch. Passing the tat (care, it is tied through an ancient peg/blob of rust) is the trickiest bit.
2) 5b. The thin crack in the upper wall, left of the groove, has hard moves (almost 5c) low down. © Rockfax

FFA. Ed Drummond 1975.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List, Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs, London Wall Training List, Eastern Grit Jamming, 50 cracks to Squamish, Ultimate E1 ticklist, Pete's 150 Peak Extremes, Tick List for 2015/2016, WideBoyz Crack School, Top 50 Peak Cracks, Caff's Cool E1s List, Tom Randalls Classic Finger Cracks, The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), Memorable Climbs, Extreme 2018, Michelle's crack ticklist, York University Students path to greatness, Proper Cracks UK, Peak District Grit Graded List

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User Date Notes
jimlear 30 Aug, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Where it doglegs, stay left
 
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βeta: Where it doglegs, stay left
Fraser hill-casey 1 Jun, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: The tat mentioned in the topo is gone
βeta?
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βeta: The tat mentioned in the topo is gone
craig d 21 Jul, 2008 Show βeta
βeta: I disagree about the 2nd pitch being harder. It felt very easy. We did it after embankment 4 and it felt a full grade easier.
βeta?
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βeta: I disagree about the 2nd pitch being harder. It felt very easy. We did it after embankment 4 and it felt a full grade easier.
nick w 5 Jul, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: climbed this route today ,bit damp near the top but great well protected e1
βeta?
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βeta: climbed this route today ,bit damp near the top but great well protected e1
sheffieldchris 11 Apr, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: mmmm have to agree with FIEND here to some degree. yes trying to lead at your limit is no bad thing, this is the exact limit i am at now and find just going up on sight and pushing your limit (on climbs that suit YOU)is the best way, sure you are going to get in a few spots of bother but you can always back off.maybe for you to be ready for this climb you should be solid at HVS first? perhaps you would have to agree that practesing 20 times is a tad excessive on one route, time after time?
 
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βeta: mmmm have to agree with FIEND here to some degree. yes trying to lead at your limit is no bad thing, this is the exact limit i am at now and find just going up on sight and pushing your limit (on climbs that suit YOU)is the best way, sure you are going to get in a few spots of bother but you can always back off.maybe for you to be ready for this climb you should be solid at HVS first? perhaps you would have to agree that practesing 20 times is a tad excessive on one route, time after time?
UKB Shark 4 Apr, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: The scrabbling footwork of one floundering leader would have had more affect in this respect. Are you suggesting that no one should try to lead at their limit? Also if you can suggest better preparation for Yosemite I am all ears.
βeta?
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βeta: The scrabbling footwork of one floundering leader would have had more affect in this respect. Are you suggesting that no one should try to lead at their limit? Also if you can suggest better preparation for Yosemite I am all ears.
UKB Shark 24 Mar, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: I have always found this route hard and thought it was just me. Only 45 feet but packs it in. Top roped it yesterday 20 times and did the crux past the peg about 5 different ways but all seemed hard and on-off and 5b/5c. Wear comfortable boots.
βeta?
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βeta: I have always found this route hard and thought it was just me. Only 45 feet but packs it in. Top roped it yesterday 20 times and did the crux past the peg about 5 different ways but all seemed hard and on-off and 5b/5c. Wear comfortable boots.
sheffieldchris 29 Jan, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: tried the fast and light aproach to this route got to the tatt with bulging arms mashed feet and blowing like a whale,fell just above it. 1 year later slowed down lots of gear and rests if you look, still painfull on feet but breazed up it. top pitch is harder i thought. finger jamming love needed all the way up
βeta?
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βeta: tried the fast and light aproach to this route got to the tatt with bulging arms mashed feet and blowing like a whale,fell just above it. 1 year later slowed down lots of gear and rests if you look, still painfull on feet but breazed up it. top pitch is harder i thought. finger jamming love needed all the way up
Sam Doyle 31 Oct, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: The first pitch is well protected for E1, but with some difficult moves. Absolutely amazing climbing especially above the tat. The second pitch is harder, but equally well protected. Definitely 3*s.
βeta?
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βeta: The first pitch is well protected for E1, but with some difficult moves. Absolutely amazing climbing especially above the tat. The second pitch is harder, but equally well protected. Definitely 3*s.
Jon Greengrass 8 Sep, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: oh i forgot to say jamming your feet in the crack really kills! but is a good incentive to lcimb quickly and stops you hanging around
βeta?
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βeta: oh i forgot to say jamming your feet in the crack really kills! but is a good incentive to lcimb quickly and stops you hanging around
Jon Greengrass 8 Sep, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: led this three times now, had to thread the peg the first time on lead, lucky i had my nut key. Fell off it 3rd time when i slipped just above the first peg and was held by a useless looking sideways nut placed in the flared crack i'd placed to back up the peg. 3 stars classic e1 5b finger jamming.
βeta?
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βeta: led this three times now, had to thread the peg the first time on lead, lucky i had my nut key. Fell off it 3rd time when i slipped just above the first peg and was held by a useless looking sideways nut placed in the flared crack i'd placed to back up the peg. 3 stars classic e1 5b finger jamming.
Nick Smith - Climbers 8 Jul, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Someone has removed the tat since last month, which makes the hard moves near the top a bit more runout!
βeta?
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βeta: Someone has removed the tat since last month, which makes the hard moves near the top a bit more runout!
Nick Smith - Climbers 10 Jun, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: The climbing isn't that hard, but my toes get mashed to bits - it's just so painful! Am I doing it wrong??
βeta?
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βeta: The climbing isn't that hard, but my toes get mashed to bits - it's just so painful! Am I doing it wrong??
JR 3 Apr, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Mint, safe and 3* all the way
βeta?
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βeta: Mint, safe and 3* all the way
SteveC 29 Aug, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: Painful - Emb 4 is much pleasanter and more interesting at the same grade
βeta?
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βeta: Painful - Emb 4 is much pleasanter and more interesting at the same grade

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 225
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 222
Votes cast 209
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Toproped
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
DNF
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest

Millwheel Wall

Grade: E1 5b ***
(Burbage South Quarries)