UKC

34m.

Rockfax Description
A fine thin crack which is one of Millstone's classic E2s with a crucial and fingery bulge near half-height. Most people start by scrambling up Scoop Crack to the mid-height ledge, though the steep and awkward lower corner crack is a good alternative and best done early in the year before the ferns take hold (5b ). © Rockfax

FFA. Tom Proctor.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List , London Wall Training List , Peak Rock/11/Gritstone in the Seventies. , Cracks And Corners To Greatness , Millstone London roads and places (Not finished) , Burbage, Millstone and Beyond in 3 stars , Definitive *** Peak Grit , Chris H's 100 Mega Classic Trad , The Post-Lockdown Vanventure Ticklist , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , Wired Peak District Grit (2020) *** List , Fantastic Fiddly Cracks , Ultimate List of Peak District Crack Climbs , The Festival Of Shite , The Peg-Pocketeer , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List

Feedback

User Date Notes
im off 4 Sep, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Great route. Fell off crux. Good gear.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Great route. Fell off crux. Good gear.
Jus 31 Aug, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Hardest move by far is reaching the mid height ledge!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Hardest move by far is reaching the mid height ledge!
ksjs 14 Aug, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: straightforward for 5c but one or two sections where good footwork and the will to keep climbing may be of use. the gear felt a bit spaced (in reality though it isnt) and for those who like relatively regular placements i suggest taking some micro wires / swedges. a great route with sustained climbing, some lovely moves and a bit of an exposed feel to it.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: straightforward for 5c but one or two sections where good footwork and the will to keep climbing may be of use. the gear felt a bit spaced (in reality though it isnt) and for those who like relatively regular placements i suggest taking some micro wires / swedges. a great route with sustained climbing, some lovely moves and a bit of an exposed feel to it.
The Pylon King 3 Jun, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: bloody tough crux!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: bloody tough crux!

Logged Ascents

660 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Millstone Edge

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 167 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 103
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 103
Votes cast 88
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Toproped
Bouldered
DWS
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
DNF
Ground Up
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
The Sentinel

Grade: E2 5b ***
(Burbage North)

Loading Notifications...