Rockfax Description
II, 350m, 3 - 4 hours. The easiest route on the Triangle and popular as a result - you'll need an early start to be first on this one.
1) Climb the snow ramp rightwards (50 - 55 degrees, belays on the right) to reach a short, icy chimney.
2) Follow this, then make an exposed traverse rightwards into an excellent ice gully.
3) Climb the ice gully onto a mixed, rocky crest which in turn takes you to a snowfield.
4) Drift leftwards up the snowfield to reach a left-leaning icy ramp. This leads to the end of the Contamine-Négri which is followed to the summit.
Descent - Either abseil the Chéré Couloir (often busy) or continue from the top of the Triangle and onto the summit of Mont Blanc du Tacul via the exposed snow slope. From here, descend via Mont Blanc du Tacul North Face (some serac danger). In good conditions it is possible to skip the summit by cutting down to join the north face 100m above the top of the Triangle. However, this is exposed to avalanche and crevasse danger so, if in doubt, carry on to the summit. © Rockfax

G Gren, G Grisolle, A Poulain, M Ziegler and A. Contamine 04/Jul/1968.

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