Rockfax Description
II, 350m, 3 - 4 hours. The easiest route on the Triangle and popular as a result - you'll need an early start to be first on this one. 1) Climb the snow ramp rightwards (50 - 55 degrees, belays on the right) to reach a short, icy chimney. 2) Follow this, then make an exposed traverse rightwards into an excellent ice gully. 3) Climb the ice gully onto a mixed, rocky crest which in turn takes you to a snowfield. 4) Drift leftwards up the snowfield to reach a left-leaning icy ramp. This leads to the end of the Contamine-Négri which is followed to the summit.Descent - Either abseil the Chéré Couloir (often busy) or continue from the top of the Triangle and onto the summit of Mont Blanc du Tacul via the exposed snow slope. From here, descend via Mont Blanc du Tacul North Face (some serac danger). In good conditions it is possible to skip the summit by cutting down to join the north face 100m above the top of the Triangle. However, this is exposed to avalanche and crevasse danger so, if in doubt, carry on to the summit. © Rockfax
G Gren, G Grisolle, A Poulain, M Ziegler and A. Contamine 04/Jul/1968.
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Batoux's 100 finest routes in the Mont Blanc massif , Alpine Dreamz , Alpine Progression
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| chigozie | 3 Sep, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: There is well-spaced tat available to rap down the grisolle from the top of pitch 2 if you have a 60m rope and need to abandon the climb. Mostly without maillons, just cord. | ||
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Show beta
βeta: There is well-spaced tat available to rap down the grisolle from the top of pitch 2 if you have a 60m rope and need to abandon the climb. Mostly without maillons, just cord. |
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| TomAlford | 3 Jun, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: Not in great nick at the moment, variable ice followed by slushy, wet, collapsing snow - some big blocks came off the seracs and the rocks on the left, a few close calls so chose to ab off - left some tat in place so possible to rap on a single 60m underneath the righthand band (out of the firing line). We tried from first lift, would probably be ok with a good freeze before the sun hits it. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Not in great nick at the moment, variable ice followed by slushy, wet, collapsing snow - some big blocks came off the seracs and the rocks on the left, a few close calls so chose to ab off - left some tat in place so possible to rap on a single 60m underneath the righthand band (out of the firing line). We tried from first lift, would probably be ok with a good freeze before the sun hits it. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Mont Blanc du Tacul
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Clocher-Clochetons Traverse
Grade: AD 5a ***
(Aiguilles Rouges)