UKC

350m.

Rockfax Description
II, 350m, 3 - 4 hours. The easiest route on the Triangle and popular as a result - you'll need an early start to be first on this one.
1) Climb the snow ramp rightwards (50 - 55 degrees, belays on the right) to reach a short, icy chimney.
2) Follow this, then make an exposed traverse rightwards into an excellent ice gully.
3) Climb the ice gully onto a mixed, rocky crest which in turn takes you to a snowfield.
4) Drift leftwards up the snowfield to reach a left-leaning icy ramp. This leads to the end of the Contamine-NĂ©gri which is followed to the summit. © Rockfax

G Gren, G Grisolle, A Poulain, M Ziegler and A. Contamine 04/Jul/1968.

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User Date Notes
chigozie 3 Sep, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: There is well-spaced tat available to rap down the grisolle from the top of pitch 2 if you have a 60m rope and need to abandon the climb. Mostly without maillons, just cord.
Show beta
βeta: There is well-spaced tat available to rap down the grisolle from the top of pitch 2 if you have a 60m rope and need to abandon the climb. Mostly without maillons, just cord.
TomAlford 3 Jun, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Not in great nick at the moment, variable ice followed by slushy, wet, collapsing snow - some big blocks came off the seracs and the rocks on the left, a few close calls so chose to ab off - left some tat in place so possible to rap on a single 60m underneath the righthand band (out of the firing line). We tried from first lift, would probably be ok with a good freeze before the sun hits it.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Not in great nick at the moment, variable ice followed by slushy, wet, collapsing snow - some big blocks came off the seracs and the rocks on the left, a few close calls so chose to ab off - left some tat in place so possible to rap on a single 60m underneath the righthand band (out of the firing line). We tried from first lift, would probably be ok with a good freeze before the sun hits it.

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Les Courtes Traverse

Grade: AD 2 ***
(Les Courtes)

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