Rockfax Description
III, 260m. The word classic is overused but in this case it barely does it justice. The route finding is not straightforward in the lower section, but the climbing is good from the start and gets even better in the top half. There are numerous variations on the first half of the route and even after several ascents, you may find yourself taking a slightly different line every time. Most of the variations are of similar difficulty and there are plenty of fixed belays, so provided you end up at the foot of the fifth (crux) pitch, don't worry too much about how you got there!
1) 5c, Climb the shallow corner, which feels quite awkward straight off the deck, and an enjoyable hand-jamming crack above. Belay on the left.
2) 5b, Move left from the belay until grooves lead back up right to a ledge.
3) 5c, Climb up and right from the belay and follow the increasingly steep corner to a long ledge and belay at the far right of this. It is tempting to follow easy ground rightwards instead of climbing this pitch, but this ends up being harder than just sticking to the proper route.
4) 5c, Instead of climbing the crack immediately above the belay, move right and follow the hand-jamming crack to an a small overhang and pull through this.
5) 5c, Follow the crack to a stance on the ridge crest (can be combined with the pitch above).
6) 6a+, Move left and follow the thin crack up the wall. The crux move is halfway up the pitch and involves leaving the crack and stepping into a different one on the right. Small cams are useful to protect this and there are also some pegs.
7) 6a+, Keep following the crack system.
8) 5a, Follow the right-hand-crack more easily to an exposed belay.
9) 4c, Follow easier ground just to the left of the ridge crest before coming back right.
10) 5b, Follow a groove to the crest and then a short wall.
11) 4c, The corner above the belay leads to a slab and, finally, the summit. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Top quality granite crack climbing. Crux pitch well protected.


Rebuffat's 100 Finest Routes in the Mont Blanc Massif , Batoux's 100 finest routes in the Mont Blanc massif , ROCKFAX Chamonix: Top 50 , Alpine Dreamz , Mont Blanc Super Cracks , Ryan's Multipitch Climbs (Europe) , TM Alps


User Date Notes
roym 10 Jul, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: At start of first 6a+ pitch there is a loose block in the crack
Show beta
βeta: At start of first 6a+ pitch there is a loose block in the crack
DarwinMundy 7 Jul, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Walk off the route rather than abseiling.
Show beta
βeta: Walk off the route rather than abseiling.

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High TD+
Mid TD+
Low TD+
High TD
Mid TD
Low TD
High TD-
Mid TD-
Low TD-
Votes cast 3
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a+
Mid 6a+
Low 6a+
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 22
Votes cast 27
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Not Set
Route of Interest
Into the Wild

Grade: TD 6a+ ***
(Mont Oreb - Vallorcine)

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