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Abseil from the top of Brazen Butress. 

This crag is not in the MoD range. There are some bird nests in the Chimney area ( behind Brazen Buttress) but climbing is unrestricted at present as long as climbers minimise disturbance - i.e. don't hang around any longer than necessary where birds are flying in and out of the area.  Bird nesting can vary a lot here from year to year - please do a visual check before starting your route, particularly around 'The Cracks' to 'Star Gate' area.  A sign will be placed above Brazen Buttress if there is a seasonal restriction in place and this website will be updated.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 1 August

Reason: Nesting Birds

36m.

Rockfax Description
The arete of Brazen Buttress gives a magnificently-positioned pitch which has set many a camera clicking. Start beneath the arete. Climb up the left-hand side to gain a crack. Follow this to some ledges on the arete (possible thread belay if the sea is threatening). Climb the left-hand side of the arete then move onto the arete proper. Follow this to the top. © Rockfax

FA. P.Littlejohn, D.Garner May/1975.

Ticklists

2021 , Wales Trip - 2022 , Pembs Ticklist

Feedback

User Date Notes
Tall Oak 4 Sep, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: With a hanging belay and the waves lapping at my feet and being a miserable toe rag just wishing to head to the pub instead of one final route. Did get quite concerned when our good friends pulled their abb rope up to go home leaving on a committed approach to get home. Sorry Max for being a grumpy bugger. Well done for the scend! Start is stiff. Great climbing half way up.
βeta?
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βeta: With a hanging belay and the waves lapping at my feet and being a miserable toe rag just wishing to head to the pub instead of one final route. Did get quite concerned when our good friends pulled their abb rope up to go home leaving on a committed approach to get home. Sorry Max for being a grumpy bugger. Well done for the scend! Start is stiff. Great climbing half way up.
Paul Evans 15 Oct, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Yep, about right for E2. "Climb up the left hand side to gain a crack..." - hmm - seem to remember a perplexing move left across a scoop just before the crack, which took some working out. Lovely route.
βeta?
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βeta: Yep, about right for E2. "Climb up the left hand side to gain a crack..." - hmm - seem to remember a perplexing move left across a scoop just before the crack, which took some working out. Lovely route.
geoffgo21 13 Oct, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: I am glad this has been upgraded, always felt too hard for e1!
βeta?
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βeta: I am glad this has been upgraded, always felt too hard for e1!
Sam and will 9 Sep, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: a brilliant route, but has a rather unnerving start
βeta?
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βeta: a brilliant route, but has a rather unnerving start

Logged Ascents

500 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Mother Carey's Kitchen

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks

Guidebook Correction

Pembroke (2022) (2022)

stewartl
18 Jul, 2022

The lines on the online Rockfax App Topo are the wrong way round. Herod is to the right on the arĂȘte.

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High E3
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High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 67
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 62
Votes cast 66
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
DNF
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Chimes of Freedom

Grade: E2 5b ***
(Mowing Word)

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