No climbing 1 March to 1 August because of nesting birds.
The first of the hard routes has a steep start which is often a bit too wet. Start on a block below the groove right of Star Gate.
1) 6b, 15m. Step off a block and climb the groove to a bulge. Cross this and step right above the bulge into a corner. Follow this to a thread and swing around the arete to a small stance.
2) 5c, 20m. Pull out right above the stance and climb the bulge and wall above to some good holds on the left. Move up then step right into a cave. Finish leftwards up Star Gate. © Rockfax
FA. P.Littlejohn, R.Harrison 31/Jul/1977.
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