UKC

45m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
This amazing route follows the inside of the through cave to the lip, eventually popping out onto Deep Space. Start at the left-hand side of the landward wall of the through cave.
1) 4c, 35m. Climb easily up the wall to a large blocky ledge and walk rightwards along this. Move up until you are level with the top roof of the cave and then pull around into a chimneying position. Back and foot to the chockstone near the lip. Wild!
2) 4b, 10m. Squeeze through above a second chockstone (also wild) and climb the corner crack above to the top. © Rockfax

FA. M.Harris, C.Powell 18/Apr/1981.

Ticklists

HVS Adventures , Through Routes! , Unusual and Interesting Routes You Must Do VS- E2 , Ultimate HVS ticklist , Pembroke VDiff-HVS , Orange Spot Pembroke , Type 2 Fun , 100 Best Wales Mid Grade Climbs , Adventure ticklist 2018 , Pembroke Goalz , UK Holiday Plans , Hard Very Silly - wet troglodytes , 2021 Ticklist , Wales Trip - 2022

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User Date Notes
ipfreely 24 Aug, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: We abseiled from the block at the top of South face which roughly drops you down the line of Heroes. A short scramble down left puts you at the cave entrance, go left into back of cave and the route starts on the right wall. I would highly recommend doing the whole route in 3 pitches. There was an in situe stance on the 1st ledge of P1 which would help with rope drag. From there keep a lowish rising traverse along a vague ramp line, you are looking for a very small polished horn on the arête & on the opposite wall across the void is a vertical crack that has a 6 inch square angled foot hold , this is where to bridge across, (do not go higher, even though there is a nut and sling up there, it’s very muddy and it’s a dead end, which you’ll have to down climb, hence the old abandoned gear) then swing around to get into the back & footing, which is a raising traverse under stepped roofs which do offer protection and some above your head, jams / holds, continue to the chocked boulder, there are 2 together. P2 is just shuffling out the hole on good jams in a very exposed brilliant position, for a bit of bridging, udging & crack climbing & brings you up just left (looking out) of your abseil anchor. If the route was split in to 3 I would grade it 4c, 5a, 4b at E1 because of the seriousness of just before getting around the rib
Show beta
βeta: We abseiled from the block at the top of South face which roughly drops you down the line of Heroes. A short scramble down left puts you at the cave entrance, go left into back of cave and the route starts on the right wall. I would highly recommend doing the whole route in 3 pitches. There was an in situe stance on the 1st ledge of P1 which would help with rope drag. From there keep a lowish rising traverse along a vague ramp line, you are looking for a very small polished horn on the arête & on the opposite wall across the void is a vertical crack that has a 6 inch square angled foot hold , this is where to bridge across, (do not go higher, even though there is a nut and sling up there, it’s very muddy and it’s a dead end, which you’ll have to down climb, hence the old abandoned gear) then swing around to get into the back & footing, which is a raising traverse under stepped roofs which do offer protection and some above your head, jams / holds, continue to the chocked boulder, there are 2 together. P2 is just shuffling out the hole on good jams in a very exposed brilliant position, for a bit of bridging, udging & crack climbing & brings you up just left (looking out) of your abseil anchor. If the route was split in to 3 I would grade it 4c, 5a, 4b at E1 because of the seriousness of just before getting around the rib
olddirtydoggy 13 Sep, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: We found it hard to find the route. Go to the back of the cave and it is on the right hand side looking towards the back wall of the cave, land side. Same side as deep space. Info some guides don\'t include is the traverse under the roof, exposed, well protected and scary if you\'re not used to this type of climbing.
Show beta
βeta: We found it hard to find the route. Go to the back of the cave and it is on the right hand side looking towards the back wall of the cave, land side. Same side as deep space. Info some guides don't include is the traverse under the roof, exposed, well protected and scary if you're not used to this type of climbing.
Wil Treasure 3 Apr, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: A fantastic esoteric route, the climbing is much better that appearances suggest, and the first move on the second pitch is great!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: A fantastic esoteric route, the climbing is much better that appearances suggest, and the first move on the second pitch is great!

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Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
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Route of Interest
Riders on the Storm

Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Stennis Head)

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