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Abseil from the top of Brazen Butress. 

This crag is not in the MoD range. There are some bird nests in the Chimney area ( behind Brazen Buttress) but climbing is unrestricted at present as long as climbers minimise disturbance - i.e. don't hang around any longer than necessary where birds are flying in and out of the area.  Bird nesting can vary a lot here from year to year - please do a visual check before starting your route, particularly around 'The Cracks' to 'Star Gate' area.  A sign will be placed above Brazen Buttress if there is a seasonal restriction in place and this website will be updated.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 1 August

Reason: Nesting Birds

51m.

Rockfax Description
Classic steep climbing past loads of threads - about 7a+ but check the threads first! Start 10m left of the Mother Night ledge. Climb up then move right around the first bulge to a thread in a diagonal slab. Climb up the overlaps leftwards to the traverse line of Hyper Space. Pull up above and follow the line of threads, keeping left of the short groove, to the upper break. Either finish straight up the wall, or as for Mother Night. © Rockfax

FA. G.Gibson, R.Warke 28/Apr/1991.

Ticklists

Trad climbs for sport climbers , 101Pembroke Extremes , Caff's 100 Ace E5s , Ultimate E5 ticklist , The Best of Pembroke , James' Summer Ticklist , Pemroke, 3 Star Routes, E1-E5 , DWS200 - Dream Targets up to 7b+ , Pembroke dreams

Feedback

User Date Notes
Misha 4 Sep, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Threads ok but could do with replacing next season, particularly the one for the belay.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Threads ok but could do with replacing next season, particularly the one for the belay.
Gareth H 16 Sep, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: I agree, a superb route never that hard but very pumpy, there is a reasonable knee bar before the three close together threads in a hole. I might be wrong but I think the rockfax guide shows the wrong way at the top. I tried to go up a smooth groove right of the last big thread and found it nails, broke a foothold off and fell off, going left is much easier and in keeping with the route. Anybody else found this? Gareth
Show beta
βeta: I agree, a superb route never that hard but very pumpy, there is a reasonable knee bar before the three close together threads in a hole. I might be wrong but I think the rockfax guide shows the wrong way at the top. I tried to go up a smooth groove right of the last big thread and found it nails, broke a foothold off and fell off, going left is much easier and in keeping with the route. Anybody else found this? Gareth
Climber_Bill 8 May, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Fantastic space trip up the main part of this cliff at such an amenable grade, ie virtually "sported up" with all the threads. This would be a very different kettle of fish without threads, more like E6 to put in all the gear at such an outrageous angle. Make sure threads are in good condition or else it will feel like Worf is running you down with The Sword of Kahless!
Show beta
βeta: Fantastic space trip up the main part of this cliff at such an amenable grade, ie virtually "sported up" with all the threads. This would be a very different kettle of fish without threads, more like E6 to put in all the gear at such an outrageous angle. Make sure threads are in good condition or else it will feel like Worf is running you down with The Sword of Kahless!

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Mother Carey's Kitchen

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Voting
High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
Votes cast 11
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 11
Votes cast 10
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Repeated
Redpoint
Flashed (β)
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Tasmanian Devil

Grade: E5 6a ***
(Greenham Common)

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