Restricted Access
Abseil from the top of Brazen Butress.
This crag is not in the MoD range. There are some bird nests in the Chimney area ( behind Brazen Buttress) but climbing is normally unrestricted as long as climbers minimise disturbance - i.e. don't hang around any longer than necessary where birds are flying in and out of the area. New restriction 2024 due to Razorbill Nest in middle of the crux of Deep Space, affecting only that route. Please avoid until birds leave at some point in July - RAD will be updated as soon as we know.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 March to 1 August
Reason: Nesting Birds
Please do not climb ‘Deep Space’ due to Razorbill nest in the overhang. Also, Minimise noise and disturbance on adjacent routes (Inner Space, Galaxy and Star Gate).
Rockfax Description
Classic steep climbing past loads of threads - about 7a+ but check the threads first! Start 10m left of the Mother Night ledge. Climb up then move right around the first bulge to a thread in a diagonal slab. Climb up the overlaps leftwards to the traverse line of Hyper Space. Pull up above and follow the line of threads, keeping left of the short groove, to the upper break. Either finish straight up the wall, or as for Mother Night. © Rockfax
FA. G.Gibson, R.Warke 28/Apr/1991.
Ticklists
Trad climbs for sport climbers , 101Pembroke Extremes , Caff's 100 Ace E5s , Ultimate E5 ticklist , The Best of Pembroke , James' Summer Ticklist , Pemroke, 3 Star Routes, E1-E5 , DWS200 - Dream Targets up to 7b+ , Pembroke dreams
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Robbie_Phillips | 10 Jul |
Show βeta
βeta: The original finish had a pair of Fulmar nesting, so I down-climbed and went out right along the Mother Night finish which has better rock quality and I think makes more sense anyway. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: The original finish had a pair of Fulmar nesting, so I down-climbed and went out right along the Mother Night finish which has better rock quality and I think makes more sense anyway. |
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| Misha | 4 Sep, 2023 |
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βeta: Threads ok but could do with replacing next season, particularly the one for the belay. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Threads ok but could do with replacing next season, particularly the one for the belay. |
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| Gareth H | 16 Sep, 2007 |
Show βeta
βeta: I agree, a superb route never that hard but very pumpy, there is a reasonable knee bar before the three close together threads in a hole. I might be wrong but I think the rockfax guide shows the wrong way at the top. I tried to go up a smooth groove right of the last big thread and found it nails, broke a foothold off and fell off, going left is much easier and in keeping with the route. Anybody else found this? Gareth | ||
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Show beta
βeta: I agree, a superb route never that hard but very pumpy, there is a reasonable knee bar before the three close together threads in a hole. I might be wrong but I think the rockfax guide shows the wrong way at the top. I tried to go up a smooth groove right of the last big thread and found it nails, broke a foothold off and fell off, going left is much easier and in keeping with the route. Anybody else found this? Gareth |
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| Climber_Bill | 8 May, 2007 |
Show βeta
βeta: Fantastic space trip up the main part of this cliff at such an amenable grade, ie virtually "sported up" with all the threads. This would be a very different kettle of fish without threads, more like E6 to put in all the gear at such an outrageous angle. Make sure threads are in good condition or else it will feel like Worf is running you down with The Sword of Kahless! | ||
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Show beta
βeta: Fantastic space trip up the main part of this cliff at such an amenable grade, ie virtually "sported up" with all the threads. This would be a very different kettle of fish without threads, more like E6 to put in all the gear at such an outrageous angle. Make sure threads are in good condition or else it will feel like Worf is running you down with The Sword of Kahless! |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Mother Carey's Kitchen
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Hungry Heart
Grade: E5 6b ***
(Skrinkle Haven)