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35m, 3 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A brilliant and highly entertaining route that gets you into some spectacular situations. It is probably best to do it in the three short pitches to avoid rope drag and the route is a bit harder when wet (which it often is). Start by scrambling through the upper through-cave dropping down and heading left to the very back of the chimney.
1) 12m. Climb the chimney mainly on the left wall, to a stance.
2) 15m. Traverse out and left along a massive juggy hand-rail, to the mouth of the cave. Pull up then step left to a triangular niche.
3) 10m. Move right out of the niche and climb a crack to a short corner and the top. This is the top of The Cracks. © Rockfax

FA. R.Crewe, K.Winkworth 25/Mar/1978.

Ticklists

Pembroke Rockfax Top 50, Pembroke VDiff-HVS, Orange Spot Pembroke, UK Holiday Plans, Beginners Pembroke, 2020 Trips

Feedback

User Date Notes
neuromancer 17 Jul Show βeta
βeta: Ignoring technical difficulty, the first pitch needs an X grade. It is significantly more dangerous than anything like 'snakes and ladders'. Putting this as a top 50 Severe is bordering on criminal negligence on the part of rockfax. I took several football sized rocks out of the wet sandy mud and nearly killed my belayer, the belay stones are loose and rocking and your gear is placed in cracks formed between stones embedded in mud. If you want to climb the upper pitches, just climb the cracks. Which is also full of loose rock.
βeta?
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βeta: Ignoring technical difficulty, the first pitch needs an X grade. It is significantly more dangerous than anything like 'snakes and ladders'. Putting this as a top 50 Severe is bordering on criminal negligence on the part of rockfax. I took several football sized rocks out of the wet sandy mud and nearly killed my belayer, the belay stones are loose and rocking and your gear is placed in cracks formed between stones embedded in mud. If you want to climb the upper pitches, just climb the cracks. Which is also full of loose rock.
Pero 10 Sep, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: The rocks at the top of the chimney appear to be simply embedded in mud.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The rocks at the top of the chimney appear to be simply embedded in mud.
Alan James - UKC and UKH 9 Sep, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: I have bumped this up to HS to reflect the votes. For some perspective it is worth noting that this route was given Severe in 1978 and stayed that way in every guidebook until 2011/12. It also received no stars for most of that time so didn't see many ascents until Rockfax gave it Top50 Status in 2009.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I have bumped this up to HS to reflect the votes. For some perspective it is worth noting that this route was given Severe in 1978 and stayed that way in every guidebook until 2011/12. It also received no stars for most of that time so didn't see many ascents until Rockfax gave it Top50 Status in 2009.
Montecore 18 Aug, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Surely a VS (per Climbers Club guide) not a Severe...
βeta?
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βeta: Surely a VS (per Climbers Club guide) not a Severe...

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Votes cast 75
Votes cast 74
Style of Ascent
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Lead
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DNF
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Route of Interest

Bow-Shaped Corner

Grade: HS 4b ***
(Flimston Bay)