UKC

45m.

Rockfax Description
The best E1 in Britain? Probably! The line follows the huge corner all the way but on an angle of rock normally reserved for E5s. Start below the corner and climb up to the sloping ledge. Climb the right wall to an overhang. Move around this and continue to another bulge with a line of holds leading out right. Ignore these holds and pull over the daunting bulge above on some of the biggest holds in the universe. Continue straight up the crack and right-leaning groove above to ledges. Climb the crack above to the top, then stand back and beat your chest triumphantly! © Rockfax

FA. P.Littlejohn, R.Harrison May/1976.

Ticklists

Pembroke Rockfax Top 50, 100 best limestone climbs in Britain, UK Extreme Corners, Ultimate E1 ticklist, The BMC 70th Anniversary Ticklist, AMC Uni Ticklist, Caff's Cool E1s List, The Best of Pembroke, The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), 100 Best Wales Mid Grade Climbs, Becky's ticklist, Extreme 2018, The Seaside (Oh I Do Like To Be Beside), Pembroke Goalz, UK Holiday Plans, 3 star Pembroke e1., The E1 UK Roadtrip, Pemroke, 3 Star Routes, E1-E5, Hard Rock 2020, Hard Rock 2020, 2020/21 Trips, Pembroke ticket, 2021 Ticklist, 2021

Feedback

User Date Notes
Bruise Apprentice 9 Sep, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: No nesting birds (9 Sept). Fulmar chick has vacated the cave.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: No nesting birds (9 Sept). Fulmar chick has vacated the cave.
ali.scott 7 Sep, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: no nesting birds on 6/9
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: no nesting birds on 6/9
Blake 31 Aug, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Unavoidable fulmar chick on route... recommend avoiding, it and it’s mother were distressed at the human presence.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Unavoidable fulmar chick on route... recommend avoiding, it and it’s mother were distressed at the human presence.
Pero 10 Sep, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Awesome route, but not a lot of finesse.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Awesome route, but not a lot of finesse.
lithos 24 Aug, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: 8 60cm slings, 2 120s, 1, 240 and wires 3...8 plus some medium cams for higher up
 
Show beta
βeta: 8 60cm slings, 2 120s, 1, 240 and wires 3...8 plus some medium cams for higher up
Kyuzo 26 Oct, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Incredible! Totally awesome! Bring lots of slings to use as threads, more than 8 quickdraws would've been a good idea as well. Those holds really are big, some you can wrap your whole arm around.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Incredible! Totally awesome! Bring lots of slings to use as threads, more than 8 quickdraws would've been a good idea as well. Those holds really are big, some you can wrap your whole arm around.
Paul Evans 15 Oct, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: It's official - it's wonderful. Done it 3 times now and still mega. At the top, it's easy to traverse R too low. Also if there's been a heavy dew the night before, it can be a bit greasy (but still wonderful).
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: It's official - it's wonderful. Done it 3 times now and still mega. At the top, it's easy to traverse R too low. Also if there's been a heavy dew the night before, it can be a bit greasy (but still wonderful).
Furzy Sleight 16 Jun, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Its an Uber classic isnt it - worth 4 stars
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Its an Uber classic isnt it - worth 4 stars

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High E2
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High E1
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Low E1
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Votes cast 163
High 5b
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High 5a
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High 4c
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Votes cast 155
Votes cast 151
Style of Ascent
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Followed
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Route of Interest

Cool for Cats

Grade: E1 5b ***
(Stennis Head)
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