Rockfax Description
The best E1 in Britain? Probably! The line follows the huge corner all the way but on an angle of rock normally reserved for E5s. Start below the corner and climb up to the sloping ledge. Climb the right wall to an overhang. Move around this and continue to another bulge with a line of holds leading out right. Ignore these holds and pull over the daunting bulge above on some of the biggest holds in the universe. Continue straight up the crack and right-leaning groove above to ledges. Climb the crack above to the top, then stand back and beat your chest triumphantly! © Rockfax
FA. P.Littlejohn, R.Harrison May/1976.
Pembroke Rockfax Top 50 , 100 best limestone climbs in Britain , UK Extreme Corners , Ultimate E1 ticklist , The BMC 70th Anniversary Ticklist , AMC Uni Ticklist , Caff's Cool E1s List , The Best of Pembroke , The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , 100 Best Wales Mid Grade Climbs , Becky's ticklist , Extreme 2018 , The Seaside (Oh I Do Like To Be Beside) , Pembroke Goalz , UK Holiday Plans , 3 star Pembroke e1. , The E1 UK Roadtrip , Pemroke, 3 Star Routes, E1-E5 , Hard Rock 2020 , Hard Rock 2020 , 2020/21 Trips , Pembroke ticket , 2021 Ticklist , 2021 , Pembroke Hard/Extreme Rock , 100 Pat Littlejohn Masterpieces , Pembs '21 , Wales Trip - 2022 , ROCKFAX TOP 50s upto e3 , E1's
User | Date | Notes | ||
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Tall Oak | 20 Sep, 2022 |
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βeta: What a route. I MEAN WHAT A ROUTE! Completely different to the Sunsmoke, Tempest, Brazen, Herod, Straight Gate kinda climbing. SO so much fun. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: What a route. I MEAN WHAT A ROUTE! Completely different to the Sunsmoke, Tempest, Brazen, Herod, Straight Gate kinda climbing. SO so much fun. |
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Cheeks | 31 Aug, 2022 |
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βeta: First route and first beautiful day after a rainy Manchester week, so this really was an uplifting surprise... to all Belting route. | βeta? | |
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βeta: First route and first beautiful day after a rainy Manchester week, so this really was an uplifting surprise... to all Belting route. |
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Bruise Apprentice | 9 Sep, 2020 |
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βeta: No nesting birds (9 Sept). Fulmar chick has vacated the cave. | βeta? | |
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βeta: No nesting birds (9 Sept). Fulmar chick has vacated the cave. |
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ali.scott | 7 Sep, 2020 |
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βeta: no nesting birds on 6/9 | βeta? | |
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βeta: no nesting birds on 6/9 |
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Blake | 31 Aug, 2020 |
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βeta: Unavoidable fulmar chick on route... recommend avoiding, it and it’s mother were distressed at the human presence. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Unavoidable fulmar chick on route... recommend avoiding, it and it’s mother were distressed at the human presence. |
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Pero | 10 Sep, 2019 |
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βeta: Awesome route, but not a lot of finesse. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Awesome route, but not a lot of finesse. |
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lithos | 24 Aug, 2019 |
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βeta: 8 60cm slings, 2 120s, 1, 240 and wires 3...8 plus some medium cams for higher up | ||
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βeta: 8 60cm slings, 2 120s, 1, 240 and wires 3...8 plus some medium cams for higher up |
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Kyuzo | 26 Oct, 2005 |
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βeta: Incredible! Totally awesome! Bring lots of slings to use as threads, more than 8 quickdraws would've been a good idea as well. Those holds really are big, some you can wrap your whole arm around. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Incredible! Totally awesome! Bring lots of slings to use as threads, more than 8 quickdraws would've been a good idea as well. Those holds really are big, some you can wrap your whole arm around. |
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Paul Evans | 15 Oct, 2005 |
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βeta: It's official - it's wonderful. Done it 3 times now and still mega. At the top, it's easy to traverse R too low. Also if there's been a heavy dew the night before, it can be a bit greasy (but still wonderful). | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: It's official - it's wonderful. Done it 3 times now and still mega. At the top, it's easy to traverse R too low. Also if there's been a heavy dew the night before, it can be a bit greasy (but still wonderful). |
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Furzy Sleight | 16 Jun, 2005 |
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βeta: Its an Uber classic isnt it - worth 4 stars | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Its an Uber classic isnt it - worth 4 stars |
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Grade: E1 5b ***
(St. David's Head East)