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45m.

Rockfax Description
The best E1 in Britain? Probably! The line follows the huge corner all the way but on an angle of rock normally reserved for E5s. Start below the corner and climb up to the sloping ledge. Climb the right wall to an overhang. Move around this and continue to another bulge with a line of holds leading out right. Ignore these holds and pull over the daunting bulge above on some of the biggest holds in the universe. Continue straight up the crack and right-leaning groove above to ledges. Climb the crack above to the top, then stand back and beat your chest triumphantly! © Rockfax

FA. P.Littlejohn, R.Harrison May/1976.

Ticklists

Pembroke Rockfax Top 50, 100 best limestone climbs in Britain, UK Extreme Corners, Ultimate E1 ticklist, The BMC 70th Anniversary Ticklist, AMC Uni Ticklist, Caff's Cool E1s List, The Best of Pembroke, The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), 100 Best Wales Mid Grade Climbs, Becky's ticklist, Extreme 2018, The Seaside (Oh I Do Like To Be Beside), Pembroke Goalz, UK Holiday Plans, 3 star Pembroke e1., The E1 UK Roadtrip, Pemroke, 3 Star Routes, E1-E5, Hard Rock 2020, Hard Rock, 2020 Trips, Pembroke ticket

Feedback

User Date Notes
Bruise Apprentice 9 Sep Show βeta
βeta: No nesting birds (9 Sept). Fulmar chick has vacated the cave.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: No nesting birds (9 Sept). Fulmar chick has vacated the cave.
ali.scott 7 Sep Show βeta
βeta: no nesting birds on 6/9
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: no nesting birds on 6/9
Blake 31 Aug Show βeta
βeta: Unavoidable fulmar chick on route... recommend avoiding, it and it’s mother were distressed at the human presence.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Unavoidable fulmar chick on route... recommend avoiding, it and it’s mother were distressed at the human presence.
Pero 10 Sep, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Awesome route, but not a lot of finesse.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Awesome route, but not a lot of finesse.
lithos 24 Aug, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: 8 60cm slings, 2 120s, 1, 240 and wires 3...8 plus some medium cams for higher up
 
Show beta
βeta: 8 60cm slings, 2 120s, 1, 240 and wires 3...8 plus some medium cams for higher up
Kyuzo 26 Oct, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Incredible! Totally awesome! Bring lots of slings to use as threads, more than 8 quickdraws would've been a good idea as well. Those holds really are big, some you can wrap your whole arm around.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Incredible! Totally awesome! Bring lots of slings to use as threads, more than 8 quickdraws would've been a good idea as well. Those holds really are big, some you can wrap your whole arm around.
Paul Evans 15 Oct, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: It's official - it's wonderful. Done it 3 times now and still mega. At the top, it's easy to traverse R too low. Also if there's been a heavy dew the night before, it can be a bit greasy (but still wonderful).
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: It's official - it's wonderful. Done it 3 times now and still mega. At the top, it's easy to traverse R too low. Also if there's been a heavy dew the night before, it can be a bit greasy (but still wonderful).
Furzy Sleight 16 Jun, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Its an Uber classic isnt it - worth 4 stars
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Its an Uber classic isnt it - worth 4 stars

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 162
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 154
Votes cast 150
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
DNF
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest

Surprise Attack

Grade: E1 5c ***
(Mewsford Point)