Restricted Access

Abseil from the top of Brazen Butress. 

This crag is not in the MoD range. There are some bird nests in the Chimney area ( behind Brazen Buttress) but climbing is unrestricted at present as long as climbers minimise disturbance - i.e. don't hang around any longer than necessary where birds are flying in and out of the area.  Bird nesting can vary a lot here from year to year - please do a visual check before starting your route, particularly around 'The Cracks' to 'Star Gate' area.  A sign will be placed above Brazen Buttress if there is a seasonal restriction in place and this website will be updated.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 1 August

Reason: Nesting Birds

95m, 6 pitches. An epic link up of Deep Space, Inner Space and Threadneedle Street following a logical line through the cave. The best way to sample these amazing routes in an even more amazing setting. Start as for pitch 1 of Deep Space.
1) 5b, 20m. Climb pitch 1 of Deep Space to the cave belay (beware of vomiting fulmar!).
2) 5a, 15m. As for pitch 2 of Deep Space, pull over the roof and climb the outside of the impressive chimney to the chockstone belay of Inner Space.
3) 5a, 15m. The scary pitch entering the bowels of the impressive cave. Reverse the chimney traverse pitch of Inner Space (often slimy) making sure to adequately protect the second. At the end of the chimney down climb slightly and make an awkward and blind move onto the landward wall. Thread belay on a cosy ledge here.
4) 4b, 20m. Down climb the landward wall to the ledges and walk over to the back of the cave. Carefully climb across the chimney pitch of Threadneedle Street (some suspect rock) to its first belay.
5) 15m. Pitch 2 of Threadneedle Street traversing out of the cave along jugs to the niche.
6) 10m. Pitch 3 of Threadneedle Street climbing rightwards rising cracks to the top.

FA. Dan Geh, Patrick Hill 12/Jun/2014.


Pemroke, 3 Star Routes, E1-E5


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Route of Interest
Preposterous Tales

Grade: E2 5b ***
(Bosherston Head)

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