UKC

95m, 6 pitches. An epic link up of Deep Space, Inner Space and Threadneedle Street following a logical line through the cave. The best way to sample these amazing routes in an even more amazing setting. Start as for pitch 1 of Deep Space.
1) 5b, 20m. Climb pitch 1 of Deep Space to the cave belay (beware of vomiting fulmar!).
2) 5a, 15m. As for pitch 2 of Deep Space, pull over the roof and climb the outside of the impressive chimney to the chockstone belay of Inner Space.
3) 5a, 15m. The scary pitch entering the bowels of the impressive cave. Reverse the chimney traverse pitch of Inner Space (often slimy) making sure to adequately protect the second. At the end of the chimney down climb slightly and make an awkward and blind move onto the landward wall. Thread belay on a cosy ledge here.
4) 4b, 20m. Down climb the landward wall to the ledges and walk over to the back of the cave. Carefully climb across the chimney pitch of Threadneedle Street (some suspect rock) to its first belay.
5) 15m. Pitch 2 of Threadneedle Street traversing out of the cave along jugs to the niche.
6) 10m. Pitch 3 of Threadneedle Street climbing rightwards rising cracks to the top.

FA. Dan Geh, Patrick Hill 12/Jun/2014.

Ticklists

Pemroke, 3 Star Routes, E1-E5

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Route of Interest
First Blood

Grade: E2 5c ***
(St. Govan's East)

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