UKC

Restricted Access

Abseil from the top of Brazen Butress. 

This crag is not in the MoD range. There are some bird nests in the Chimney area ( behind Brazen Buttress) but climbing is unrestricted at present as long as climbers minimise disturbance - i.e. don't hang around any longer than necessary where birds are flying in and out of the area.  Bird nesting can vary a lot here from year to year - please do a visual check before starting your route, particularly around 'The Cracks' to 'Star Gate' area.  A sign will be placed above Brazen Buttress if there is a seasonal restriction in place and this website will be updated.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 1 August

Reason: Nesting Birds

40m.

Rockfax Description
This direct route up the wall between Strait Gate and the arete. Climb the wall, on some large sharp holds and cracks, to a break. Move up slightly rightwards to reach some good holds. Stand up on these, step left, and make hard moves up the wall above to the top. © Rockfax

FA. G.Gibson, H.Gibson 28/May/1987.

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Grade: E4 5c ***
(Mother Carey's Kitchen)

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